Cotter pin wear

[duTch]

I was thinking along the same lines as you Gerry- could take senility to a whole new level. ..

[Greybeard]

Couple of things that you may already know.

It's important that the cotter pin is fitted so that the nut is not being pulled when the kick starter is used.

When using a hammer to drive the pin out hold something with a decent mass against the [back of the ] kick start lever, (obviously not blocking the pins exit). This really helps to get all of the hammer force to work and also protects the gearbox and bearing.

[Greybeard]

I just found this article about dealing with Cotter Pins in general.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotters.html

I also found out that in the USA the term Cotter Pin can mean a Split Pin.

[KeithJ]

Interesting.  Just rebuilding my gearbox and ordered a new stainless cotter pin from Lightning and it was the wrong taper and would not fit.  Also, they made the thread a larger metric size with an Imperial hex nut to make the threaded part stronger.  So good news and not so good news.  I ordered another pin from George Prew and it fitted.  Lightning assure me they have checked theirs out and it is a good fit on the parts on which they checked it.  I've had my A10 for over 40 years and believe it is all still standard so why the discrepancies? 

No issues with the response from Lightning they are just as unclear about the problem as I am.
ATB

[bsa-bill]

I also found out that in the USA the term Cotter Pin can mean a Split Pin.

and  in the past some parts of the UK,  Like North Northumberland

Now many A10 that had fixed kick-starts now sport folding ones, and there are at least two versions of those, so obviously room for differences

[duTch]

 
Yo, that sounds familiar, it seems there's more to this than meets the eye- I'm sure I bought a new stainless pin from somewhere-maybe LightningS., maybe elsewhere, but can't find it just now.
  I have a feeling I tried to fit it but it pulled right through or something, so I gave up and used the old one which was apparent today (a bit distorted), when through curiousity, I popped mine out and did some measuring..... did a bit of drawing with the triggernometry finger If I don't have an early phone call, will chase this up tomorrow

  whoops, got sidetracked and Bill's rounded me up...

Now many A10 that had fixed kick-starts now sport folding ones, and there are at least two versions of those, so obviously room for differences

 yes I have two different folding ones, one is stamped "MCE" and I know I bought  one in the UK in '81- the other can't remember its history but is longer

 

[bsa-bill]

one has a captive spring and ball in the top of the lever to keep the pedal bit from flaping about the other has a (more authentic ?) bolted on spring clip to do the same.
and I have also had pins that pulled to far through. other problems including not clearing the silencer (that was paricularly annoying on a new silincer)

[The pirate]

If the cotter pin is not fitted as per Orabandas advice, the slight movement over time can cause ridges to form on the shaft of the cotter pin or in the worst case bend the pin slightly - these in turn can make it hard to get out.

[orabanda]

And they can shear at the ridge that forms!