I have given up on the 6 spring clutch ..

[A.t.d.c. 1.]

On the 1957 BB33 .I have a new 4 spring clutch basket and a clutch hub ,springs, pins pressure plate ,etc.all good.  I also have a new 4 spring adapter and center nut and neither of the little bu**ers fit ?..so much for assembly over the week end !! What do I really need and where can I get these parts from?..Any help would be appreciated ..Thanks... Rich ..

[chaterlea25]

Hi Rich,
Could you post a pic of the adaptor you have ? It might be a Triumph one which has a different taper?
The single cylinder models need a deeper taper in the adaptor than the twins, to get the primary chain aligned
There are still some of the shite adaptors being supplied with the scroll cut in the wrong direction
Most sellers dont know there are different ones for twins and singles, so I wont recommend a seller

The nuts usually need a tap running through them for some reason, WTF dont they tap them after plating ??

HTH
John

[A.t.d.c. 1.]

Yes John .It needs a deeper taper ....Wonder if SRM.would be any good?

[chaterlea25]

Hi Rich,
SRM were waiting for more adaptors to be made which is why I ordered from another source (normally very good)
SRM adaptors are only made for the twin, also no scroll, a felt washer is fitted instead
I am rebuilding another A10 and found the gap around the adaptor /sliding plate was excessive
I bought a new sliding plate and thats as bad if not worse

 
John

[oldbeezageezer]

I purchased an A10 October and after getting towed back home 3 times found out it was magneto breakdown. I decided to go the electronic route and upgraded to 12v as well.

Of course I had to set the timing so off with the chaincase and that's when I discovered the sorry state of the clutch. (6 spring) there was only one  adjusting nut on each bolt and these had been wired so no adjustment there then! the chain wheel rocked side to side by about 10mm.
on dismantling the clutch, undone by hand as the clutch centre nut was loose, cork pieces were pretty much flush with the plates (is this normal?) and the was some scoring on the steel plates. the slots in the basket had a ripple surface where the plates had been banging against the slots and the lugs were burred. The clutch centre splines had chips out of them. It looked as though someone had been attacking it with a hammer. no wonder I had a bit of clutch drag!

Anyway, the crux of this post is....do I replace the 6 spring set up or go for the 4 spring?

I noted the comment about the adapter being correct for twins and will check with the supplier if I go that route.
any advice, pros and cons of either will be gratefully received. Many thanks.

[muskrat]

G'day obgeezer.
That's exactly what I did when I first saw the 6 spring mess in my SS. The 4 spring was much better. The other option would be to go belt drive and cut out another oil leak.
Cheers

[chaterlea25]

Hi,
Go for a 4 spring clutch !!

Beware of cheaper versions for sale, they more than likely have "foreign" cheapo parts fitted
The  cheaper chainwheel sprockets are soft and the metal where the plate tangs engage are very thin in comparison to the UK made ones

Use Surflex plates, or the 7 plate conversion like this
https://www.triumph-spares.co.uk/cat_details.php?p_head=7%20Plate%20Clutch

Buy cheap buy twice

I had a bit of luck on the sliding plate problem, finding 3 NOS ones at Stafford and at a great price

HTH
John

[oldbeezageezer]

Thanks for all the advice guys.
My mind is made up and having asked the questions to the supplier of the clutch, I will part with another load of hard earned dosh and hopefully get the old A10 out on the road before the end of  UK summer.

Cheers
Alan

[unclerob]

I fitted a Pearson clutch more than a year ago, I know its fairly expensive at £400 or so but its made so much difference I think its well worth it....nicer feel to the gearchange, never a problem finding neutral and lighter to use. You get a much better sliding plate with it and the clutch springs bolt up tight so no mucking about trying to get them to lift evenly..... I haven't even looked at mine since I fitted it! Granted its really a Suzuki one but once the chaincase is back on no one can tell!!

[Topdad]

anyone dealt with the guy in Flint Nth Wales , advertises in all the classic mags and from memory quite a bit cheaper than the pearson setup , spoke to him once and he's a bit quirky but ok and works silly hours inc Sundays .

[Johnny J]

I fitted a Pearson clutch

This one?: http://www.bsagoldstar.bike/clutch-conversion if so, it's up to £525 now...

[oldbeezageezer]

WOW. Pearson clutch looks the business. I thought the £320 I am looking at was expensive.
Thanks anyway.

[Klaus]

I fit all my Beesas with belt drive and have no problems, no Oildripping, everytime the same tension, fit and don't care about.

One is from Newby:
http://www.bobnewbyracing.co.uk/

the others from NEB:
http://britishbikebits.com/neb-alloy-belt-drive-kit-bsa-db32-dbd34-goldstar#.VZUXcUZqzwJ

According to my opinon the NEB clutch is better, because the bearing is an closed one. A grad advantage by dismandling...you know you allway miss a roll

Klaus

[oldbeezageezer]

Well, purchased the triumph 4 spring clutch conversion and have it in place but can anyone tell me how the lock nut, solid washer and locking tab washer fit? Haynes shows tab washer with one tab bent towards the clutch, solid steel washer, which is recessed on one side and then the lock nut.

If I fit it this way, the tab washer is behind the steel washer and can't be bent over the lock nut.

Any ideas welcome please.

[chaterlea25]

Hi Alan,
Usually I do not bother with the lockwasher and use some threadlock on cleaned threads
The washer should be the special thick one, no recess, the spigot on the nut fits into the washer

One way or another tha sprockets must be in line

Your PM has prompted me into writing up some kind of guide on building up the primary drive as there seem to be a lot of issues when owners go to fit a 4 spring clutch
I took a series of photos on the last bike I built, so have that much done already,

Can you measure how far the mainshaft protrudes through the shaft adaptor?

I have several engine sprockets, some with plain backs and others with different thickness bosses
I need to go and measure these and see if the sprockets are different thicknesses or have different offsets

Hopefully I will get this sorted in the next few days

HTH
John