Gasket replacements and lh footpeg

[Nigeyp]

Having removed the   case covers I now need new gaskets- timing side is not a problem but the chain casing has signs of contact with the clutch and the cush drive- in order to space the case should I go for a cork gasket? or are there are any alternatives that are thicker than the standard paper??? Gaskets.

I have also been using the SRM sump plate conversion without the 2 recommended gaskets-so will be ordering them as well.

Anyone any suggestions as to suppliers for quality, thick gaskets?

I will also have to remove the LH side footpeg - RH off no problem but cannot get the LH off what is the secret?

[Topdad]

re the gaskets someone like Lightning spares , dragonfly and SRM etc all in the classic mags or google . At Ligthning Brian may be able to let you know about thicker gaskets but really with everything linned up it shouldn't be an issue. Has you are going to take the L hand peg off have alook at the chaincase inner where its close to thhat peg, there is a frame lug and a corresponding hole in the chaincase you can use washers to adjust the case so that it will be more oilk tight and stop the rubbing . The left peg normally is just as easy to remove has the other take the big nut (3/4" ??) off and the peg is on an adjustable slider same has the other . Have you twin pipes, if so remove the silencer that should give enough room/play to twiddle everything . remove the peg by pulling,it should just come off the spline but if notpull the lot to get its  locating peg out of the engine plate and then just invert and twiddle it off the long bolt or push bolt out the other side . Lot of twiddling going on there can't wait to hear what the correct term is?? best of look, BobH.

[duTch]

 Twiddle..!

[duTch]

   

[Bill ss]

I had to google twiddle it is a real word,as in a surname,never heard it before.

[Nigeyp]

This is the reply I got from Gary at SRM

If the cush drive is touching casing, it needs to be retightened ,
torque to 65 ft lbs and use thread lock on the threads.

Clutch outer plate spring studs touching casing could be a bad clutch
centre adaptor, that's the centre that goes on the mainshaft , there
were some bad copy ones that made the clutch sit out an extra 1/4 inch ,
the centre we supply are correct, someone could have fitted our outer
plate onto an existing or someone elses clutch.
Check chain alignment on the clutch side for any issues

[chaterlea25]

Hi,
Is the steel spacer plate fitted between crankcase and inner primary case?
This has a gasket fitted either side and the total thickness comes to about 4mm
without this the cushdrive and clutch can/will foul the cases
Fit the inner case as above and add either a short 5/16th x18 bolt to the front case hole or a spacer on the long 5/16 screw so as the inner is held solidly to the crankcase
Then As Bob said fill the gap between the lower rear mounting and the frame with washers before bolting that up
Make sure the back of the clutch is not fouling on the sliding plate when the inner is bolted up
Sometimes adjustment at the front is needed, add or remove a gasket and repeat

There was a long detailed diccussion on this faily recently on here

John

[BSA_54A10]

Without any gasket in there, the clutch should not touch the primary chain case .
Some thing is in the wrong place or way too loose.
Check the chain alignment very carefully
grab the clutch basket and test its tightness.
It should have a slight wobble at the edges but the entire basket should be firmly on the mainshaft .

[Nigeyp]

  the problem seems to have been the cush drive nut. It had unwound so far that the cush drive and drive sprocket lobe to lobe and not meshed. Thought about the RGM cush nut, but as I had a cold chisel and hammer started to bash away until there was a mighty ping and low and behold the cush drive and sprocket were re-engaged.

Anyone have experience with the SRM cush nut- as you torque it up to 65lb/ft? with a socket, and saves me buying the C spanner?


Stilll have not got the footpeg off wiggling has not been effective, so now need to replace the  gaskets and check there is no further milling of the chain case.

[morris]

Thought about the RGM cush nut, but as I had a cold chisel and hammer started to bash away

The words ''cold chisel'' sends cold shivers down my backside...
If you really have to knock something loose, use a bar of aluminium. It'll save the bloke that comes after you a lot of headshaking and teethsucking...

[a101960]

Anyone have experience with the SRM cush nut- as you torque it up to 65lb/ft? with a socket, and saves me buying the C spanner?

Yep, got one fitted to my engine. Been on there for about 12 years. It's a good mod. I think that the original BSA solution is less than satisfactory, bearing in mind how important it is to make sure that it is done up tight. You do not want to damage your splines, or compromise the bearing location. I do not do modifications just for the fun of it or because it can be done, but it does make sense where there is a clear benefit from doing so. Wandering off topic slightly, I have also fitted an SRM ally clutch cover and radial bearing on the end of the clutch release push rod.
John

[terryg]

I don't have a C-spanner either.  Instead I've made up a 4-peg spanner from a large washer, 4 bits of rod and a large nut - drilled/welded together to fit the cush drive and let me use a socket and torque wrench.  So far my welding has been good for the 65 lbf/ft.  (I've also made a 2-peg version for the gearbox sprocket.  Holding the sprocket while tightening is another story).
As others have already said, "the special tools box is filling up".

[duTch]

 I've done much the same as Terry

[Angus]

And me old socket with 4 lugs welded on, in special tool box 

[Nigeyp]

all bits on order- spoke to SRM cush nut now £20, contacted Lightening spares about a mod with a front wheel nut which fits the thread and is about £5. Doesl the same  job and can be torqued!
Lightening spares have an A10 that has covered 70,000 miles with many mods including a car oil filter that allows the use of 20W50.

I would advise anyone but the purists to look at the site, and there is no computer part ordering its all catalogues and part numbers.r
Considering the change to EP in the gearbox.


Just waiting for parts to arrive, and put together ready to join a funeral procession/ escort on the 20th!