Going Electronic MK ll

[Gerry]

Hi Muskrat, Thanks mate. Funny you should say that because that's exactly what I did do, use a separate battery. Plus the timing disk did show the retard at about 12 degrees at as close as I could get to idle.

[duTch]

 Hey Gerry, I had a thought that maybe the timing light sensor/pickup on the plug lead needs to be reversed, as doesn't the polarity change- then I got to the Boyer bit, so it likely all different....??

 Just a thought?

[Gerry]

Hi Dutch, Thinking about it, I'm going to turn the Boyer stator plate 180 degrees as suggested earlier before I do anything more as I already have the timing plate on and the primary cover off so as to re check the timing once done, at least then I can discount that as the problem or I have found the problem. Having the timing light fail to work on the left hand side does seem to indicate a sparking problem. Could be the Boyer is faulty but I hope not. Cheers. Gerry

[duTch]

 not sure you got my drift, you have one with an arrow that pints to the plug? I mean point that opposite->to the unit..?

 just having read people talk about electronic tachos and recently a mention of maggies having 'circular polarity' (my words), where sparks flow ->to the plug one side, and away <-from the plug the other side...?

[Gerry]

Hi Dutch, Not sure what you mean, the timing light just surrounds the HT lead which is enough to get the light to work there's no way to connect it any different. Just went and purchased two 5K Ohms plug caps NGK which are recommended by Boyer also a set of new leads and a duel HT lead coil. Too tired now to do any more today but made a set of hex head clutch spring nuts to save all the mucking around trying to tighten or loosen the old slotted head ones with worn slots. Had a length of stainless hex steel which takes an 11/16" AF socket. Thought I'd do that while I had the primary cover off. Cheers. Gerry

[bsa-bill]

the timing light just surrounds the HT lead which is enough to get the light to work there's no way to connect it any different

Yep there is, Dutch has it right, you may need to unclip and rotate the clip 180

[Gerry]

OK, never realized that. Will give it a go tomorrow and see what results. Cheers guys. Gerry

[muskrat]

I'm sure the reverse polarity thing only applies to a magneto and not to the electronic ignition.
Cheers

[bsa-bill]

reverse polarity thing only applies to a magneto and not to the electronic ignition.

Now you've got me thinking Musky, can't recall what I was using (Maggie or electronic) when I last used the strobe light, nearly bound to have been electronic.
anyway won't the current still be direct and therefore going in one direction or the other, I do know that the strobe only works with it clipped around the cable one way.
Going to be pushed for time to test it today - Garden + shed refurb (yes my memory), finally need to label everything so I can get anything done  without spending hours remembering where stuff is

[beezermacc]

Have you tried a magneto on it yet??!!

[bsa-bill]

Haven't had a bike started since but will try it tomorrow on both Maggie and electronic and report back, but I'm thinking both a coil and a maggie will produce direct current

[bsa-bill]

OK tried the strobe light on both my bikes, same for both magneto and electronic, works fine if you have the arrow pointing towards the plug , absolute Zilch if facing the other way.
Further little bit of info that might help someone someday, the strobe light is a Draper - 12 volt but works on 6 volt fine allowing that the light is not so bright but would be good enough to highlight you timing mark.

Just thought I'd mention both started first kick, Flash settled down to a nice even tickover (of course) RGF needs a good bit of wrist action to keep going until it warms up - still of the opinion it needs to be richer, shed refurb 99.9% there so maybe this week I'll get at it

[muskrat]

Bill, don't fall into the trap of trying to tune for a nice idle to early. I'd say the flash is too rich and the RGF is close to the mark. A cold motor needs a richer mixture than a hot one (hence the use of a tickler/choke) so if it "settles down" straight away the pilot is too rich.
Now I'll duck for cover!
Cheers

[bsa-bill]

Now I'll duck for cover!

No that was me - read it in  my other post Two magpies

[Gerry]

OK Guys, bit the bullet and stripped the thing for the third (or was it the fourth?) time, and this time took the barrel off too. Nothing!!! Ring gaps are on the max' new ring sizes on the left cylinder and if I remember right the same on the right but I didn't remove those this time. Gaps at 120 degrees. But before I did all this I fitted new plug caps, leads and duel HT lead coil.....no improvement. So I recon I must be missing something with the left hand chamber on the head. Will remove the valves and springs on that side and see if I can pick up a problem such as guides or weak spring. Should I restart this thread in the engine section?? Although still not sure. Cheers. Gerry aka Dirty finger nails.  ps I'm not giving up even if it means a new engine, gearbox, tank, frame and seat!!!