Author Topic: lead replacement additives  (Read 2048 times)

Offline jiminicricket

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lead replacement additives
« on: 22.12. 2008 19:03 »
anybody got any thoughts or opinions on lead replacement additives (i.e.solid metalic balls in a nylon sack) or the liquid type. Which is best?

Cheers.

Jim.

Offline RichardL

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Re: lead replacement additives
« Reply #1 on: 22.12. 2008 19:19 »
I have to admit, I use it because it seems the thing to do, but can't say for sure that I know it to be necessary or, even, a good thing. My understanding is that, without lead (or, lead substitute?) the valve seats are going to degenerate. Can others verify?

Richard L.

Online groily

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Re: lead replacement additives
« Reply #2 on: 23.12. 2008 08:42 »
I used to buy it, because it was there and I had read all the scary stuff about valve seat recession (despite the more positive stuff about 'lead memory'). And boy, there's lots of it, from oil companies, chemists, you name it. However, in common with many of my friends, I don't bother any more.
I have not had any valve trouble on any vehicle. I think tin pellets are snake oil The liquid additives may be better but I don't know and can't be bothered to carry the stuff around with me.
When 4 star fuel, leaded, was withdrawn here in France about 4 years ago, the refiners suggested using their additives with the 98 Octane (89RON I think) (best stuff). I use only 95 (85RON?) in everything and in a fair few miles have had no problem.
Iron heads: the A10 has done a good 10,000 miles without additives and the valve clearances haven't altered. I don't thrash it, but run it at around 60mph. B31 has done fewer miles (haven't had it long) but no problems so far, in about 2000 miles this summer/autumn. On my alloy-head AMC twin, I have almost never had to adjust the valve clearances. I am running that engine with the 3 of the same valves and all of the same guides and seats it had in 1976 when I got it. It has probably averaged 1500 to 2000 miles a year (having gone nowhere for most of the '90s). It's been doing a good 4000 miles a year recently. The lack of lead has made absolutely no difference.
'They' do say that if one keeps the revs to about 3000 rpm, seat recession won't happen anyway. I maybe stay around that mark mostly on the BSAs, but not on the AMC 500 as it has to be revved to get anywhere.
So I'd say that the worries are over-rated. At least for cooking engines. Has anyone had the opposite experience, attributable with reasonable certainty to nothing other than unleaded fuel I wonder? If so, I can start worrying again.
Bill

Online Brian

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Re: lead replacement additives
« Reply #3 on: 23.12. 2008 09:43 »
I havent really kept an accurate record of the mileages I have done since I have been running my bikes on unleaded but it would be quite a lot. My plunger A10 did about 15,000 last year and my B33 has done a lot more. They all have iron heads and I have never had a problem with valve recession on any of them.

I run a 98 octane fuel but that is because of pinging, not anything to do with valve seat wear. I can only think that all the stories about needing an addative are just that, stories, designed to make us buy stuff that is not needed.

Brian.

Offline A10Boy

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Re: lead replacement additives
« Reply #4 on: 28.12. 2008 12:42 »
I use Castrol Valvemaster plus. Its fairly cheap and it wont do any harm - so why not. I wouldn't bother with lead balls and all that other stuff, it sounds too much like witchcraft to me..

Regards

Andy

1958 Super Rocket
Plus
Harley Super Glide Custom
Yam XJR 1300

Offline terryk

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Re: lead replacement additives
« Reply #5 on: 31.12. 2008 09:32 »
Egg cup of diesel per motorcycle tank does the trick, have heard this used on engines for years since unleaded first appeared.
1950-53 A10 rigid/plungers, 1958-61 A10 super rockets, 1947-50 A7 longstrokes, 1949 Star twin,
1951-54 A7 plungers, 1940s M21, WDM20s,
1948-50s B33s rigid/plunger/swingarm, 1948-50s b31s rigid/plunger/swingarm