clutch drag after new plates

[lillygunny]

I changed the clutch friction and steel plates in my '63 RGS, as there was slippage evan with new springs adjusted very tight. New parts came from British Cycle, and these friction plates do not have oil grooves. Plates were soaked in 20/50w oil. I had installed a SRM pressure plate a year ago, and lift was carefully checked. I noticed the 6 steel and 5 friction plates were thicker in the basket than what came out. I have eliminated the clutch slipping problem but now it is dragging now matter what I do with adjustments-I can't get neutral with the engine running. Does it take awhile for new plates to seat so there is no drag or did I overlook something?
Thanks,
Ron

[muskrat]

G'day Ron. Did you adjust the springs so that the pressure plate lifts square? It doesn't take much to create drag.
Cheers

[lillygunny]

Thanks. I will check pressure plate lift more carefully tomorrow. What I was wondering, since I was trying to fix slippage, if new plates are thicker and the 4 springs are too tight. I am not clear they are set right. I never could get the kick start to slip with brake on and in 1st gear with one coil visible. Wish it had a compression release like the GS.
Ron

[muskrat]

With thicker plates you might have to back the springs off a bit.
Cheers

[sprint]

I have been helping a friend with his Supper Rocket who also has very bad clutch drag.

It is 3 spring Triumph type with a new basket and plates. Pressure plate has been adjusted to lift squarely and it spins cleanly when pulled in without any problems. But with the engine running and in gear with the clutch in the bike still pulls forward and selecting gears on the run, particularly neutral, is very difficult.

Gearbox selector plate has been set correctly and all gears can be selected manually without ant problems, but with the engine running it just drags.

On stripping the clutch apart the 'corks' a totally dry.

Any further suggestions as to what might be the problem or areas that can be checked would be appreciated?

[morris]

When I adjust my clutch (4 spring), I screw the adjusting nuts in until the clutch starts to "catch" when the kick is pushed down. I then give them one turn extra, then adjust parallel, and that's it. This usually leaves about 2-3 windings of the springs visible. Works fine for me. Never had any issue with it.

[chaterlea25]

Hi Ron,
Could you post a pic of the clutch friction plates? There are some about which behave like yours no matter what you do
Make sure there are no distorted plates or notches worn in the clutch basket/centre

HTH
John

[Rocket Racer]

I changed the clutch friction and steel plates in my '63 RGS, as there was slippage evan with new springs adjusted very tight. New parts came from British Cycle, and these friction plates do not have oil grooves. Plates were soaked in 20/50w oil. I had installed a SRM pressure plate a year ago, and lift was carefully checked. I noticed the 6 steel and 5 friction plates were thicker in the basket than what came out. I have eliminated the clutch slipping problem but now it is dragging now matter what I do with adjustments-I can't get neutral with the engine running. Does it take awhile for new plates to seat so there is no drag or did I overlook something?
Thanks,
Ron

When you say the plates were soaked in oil, do you mean the old ones or the new ones? Clutch plates are supposed to run dry.
With the clutch lever engaged and the primary cover off you should be able to rotate the clutch center by hand (put the bike in gear and spin the back wheel, or in neutral just turn the clutch centre) without noticeable drag.
If my plates have got oily I usually wash them dry.
Clutches don't bed in, they typically just get worse, pull that cover off and tinker