my old dripper

[jiminicricket]

can anyone suggest a good gaskett sealer for my old dripper the cases have been lapped after i took last years re-build apart again because of leaks from the cases i used a silicon sealer but heard that solvite make one that should do the trick anyone have any suggestions? i want to get this right on my C15 then later in the year i want to do the A7  regards  jim

[LJ.]

Jim... Welseal is supposed to be highly reccomended by engineers, I've used it and indeed it is good, expensive though and a bit messy. Careful if you should use silicon as too much on joints could press the excess into the engine and may find its way into your oil ways! But good stuff on primary cases where it would not matter so much.

[mike667]

i second the welseal stuff -  used in my rebuild of  T120 bonny bottom end and shes tight as a drum now!

[RichardL]

Can't identify "Welseal" in the U.S. Can someone give more information, such as manufacturer's name or web address?

Richard L.

[groily]

Google Wellseal Richard and I think you'll get a range of suppliers although I didn't scroll along looking too hard looking for US .com adresses. But it is very good stuff, also loved by the old 4 wheeled fraternity. Whether it's better than Hylomar I don't know. I have also been advised, in another forum, to make some gaskets, especially for crankcases (where they are required), out of Hallite - whatever that is and if I have spelled it correctly. However, I continue to find that rolls of proper gasket paper, a few punches to make 'oles, and occasional sparing use of the dreaded silicon gunge (if only to hold the gasket in place on one surface) works usually. With that and a re-usable copper head gasket, don't seem to have had to buy any BSA gaskets for a long time!

[bsa-bill]

I had quite good results using that stuff that only sets in the absence of air ( sorry can't recall the name but Halfords sell it) any that squeezes out into the case will disolve harmlesly in oil.
Thas was on my existing bike, now my new project (hah new - been ongoing five years now) might be different as the both the primary case and the two timing cases are of different bikes, I'll just have to see how they mate up

All the best - Bill

[jiminicricket]

Jim... Welseal is supposed to be highly reccomended by engineers, I've used it and indeed it is good, expensive though and a bit messy. Careful if you should use silicon as too much on joints could press the excess into the engine and may find its way into your oil ways! But good stuff on primary cases where it would not matter so much.

thanks to all for the  advice gives me somthing to ponder on who knows i might even get T100A oil tight as well i am pleased to say that the D7 is allready tight (but then i didn't do that one) strange that.  regards to all   jim

[groily]

D7 Jim? Have you got a really nice Bantam as well!!? Only good thing about 2-strokes, some say, is they don't leak (pure) oil . . . . Don't know as I've never really had one if you exclude mowers and other garden equipment - oh, and a couple of French cyclemotors which don't run!

[jiminicricket]

D7 Jim? Have you got a really nice Bantam as well!!? Only good thing about 2-strokes, some say, is they don't leak (pure) oil . . . . Don't know as I've never really had one if you exclude mowers and other garden equipment - oh, and a couple of French cyclemotors which don't run!

i am not suprised that it doesn't leak

[jiminicricket]

D7 Jim? Have you got a really nice Bantam as well!!? Only good thing about 2-strokes, some say, is they don't leak (pure) oil . . . . Don't know as I've never really had one if you exclude mowers and other garden equipment - oh, and a couple of French cyclemotors which don't run!

on the serious side its a great little bike and it is finished now

[A10Boy]

I hate to be the one to tell you this, but you've forgotten the wheels.............

We used to have a product called Osotite, that was brilliant any remember that, is it still available ?

[shabashow]

My local engieering company recommended a product called Curil made by a German company called elring, I believe.
It comes in two types - a hardening and a non-hardening formulation. He usually uses the hardening type, but I've opted for the non-hardening type - CurilK2.
I've tried hermatite and the blue stuff previously, but have always found that it make the gaskets stick the mating surfaces, so when I take bit off, some gasket stays on one side, and some on the other. AS well as that, it's a right palaver getting the surfaces coated evenly.
Since using this stuff, I haven't had any problems, and could even reuse the gasket, if no spare was available.
It's quite thin stuff, and I paint it on to the mating surfaces with a small paint brush, the size you'd use for doing plastic airplane models.
Touch wood - Haven't had any leaks from joints sealed with this stuff, so far,
John