Clutch and shock absorber problems

[sprint]

SRM have sent me a thinner thrust washer, approx 1.29 mm (0.051") which seems to have solved the problem.

Basket does not 'freewheel' when spun but does so with slight resistance, which I would hope would would go once bedded in and not bind/lock with thermal expansion?

The only issue now is the engine and the chainwheel sprocket alignments?

With the 8 mm lipped cush drive sleeve fitted I can get three different alignment readings depending on where I take the straight edge from?  

If I place the straight edge across the engine sprocket to the top face of the chainwheel sprocket it shows that the E/S is too far forward by about 1 mm. If I try to take the straight edge across the top face of the chainwheel sprocket it shows that the E/S need to come forward by about 1 mm? In either case it is not easy to get any sort of straight edge across the chainwheel face of the sprocket because of the raised collar which is so close the the sprocket face.

If I place a straight ruler from the center of the E/S to the center of the chainwheel it indicates correct alignment?

What is the best/correct way to check the two sprocket alignments?

[chaterlea25]

Hi Andy,
AHA 
Look carefully at the inner splines in the clutch cush drive spider
They are fractionally below the flat surface of the rest of the components
this is whats causing the binding up, allowing the centre move towards the chain wheel when tightened up
Glad the thinner thrust washer will work as this is an easier way out

I normally align the primary drive before fitting the inner primary casing,
I use a length of 8mm square steel bar (key steel) to check along the rear of the sprockets

If each of your measurements oppose each other, then you cannot be far out 

HTH
John

[sprint]

Hi Andy,
AHA  
Look carefully at the inner splines in the clutch cush drive spider
They are fractionally below the flat surface of the rest of the components
this is whats causing the binding up, allowing the centre move towards the chain wheel when tightened up
Glad the thinner thrust washer will work as this is an easier way out

I normally align the primary drive before fitting the inner primary casing,
I use a length of 8mm square steel bar (key steel) to check along the rear of the sprockets

If each of your measurements oppose each other, then you cannot be far out  

HTH
John

Thanks John.

Is the slight undercut, or wear, on the internal edge of the splines not normal with the cush drive hub?

Fortunately the thinner thrust washer has solved the problem.

Have managed to pull and hold the clutch rod across the back face of the chainwheel and then rotate it down across the back face of the engine sprocket. Doing that a 1.5 mm spacer give correct alignment, this is with the 8 mm lipped sleeve.

I guess that makes sense as that is roughly the amount that I have had to remove from the outside face of the inner case bottom lug to give clearance where it mounts on the frame. For whatever the reason it seem that the engine is 1 to 2 mm further over to the left that it should be?

At least everything now seems to be aligned so I can put it back together.

Andy

Andy

[chaterlea25]

HI Andy
When the clutch centre nut is tightened to 65ft/lbs all the pressure is exerted on those tiny shoulders in the cush drive, they deform under the pressure 
Assemble the clutch so as the chainwheel is kept solid on the shaft, and tighten up the bottom gearbox bolt to make sure the box is sitting squarely in the engine plates
Having the primary chain tensioner on the far side doesnt help
Then check alignment again

Hope it all goes well
Let us know how it goes

John

[sprint]

Hi John

I had both top and bottom G/B nuts done up tight as was the clutch center nut when I checked the alignment, 1.5 mm is what it seems to need?

The bike is now fully together again, just got to put G/B and C/C oils in and should be ready to roll again once the sun come out again.

Thanks for all of your help and patience which has been very much appreciated, as it has been from everybody who has helped/advised.

Andy 

[muskrat]

Great news Andy. Hope you still have some hair  .
I'm still a little baffled that you had to remove metal from the rear primary mount.
Cheers

[sprint]

Great news Andy. Hope you still have some hair  .
I'm still a little baffled that you had to remove metal from the rear primary mount.
Cheers

Thanks

Can't explain myself since I bought the bike fully assembled?

Removed about 1.5 mm so that when both cases were bolted together there was enough for a piece of paper to pass between the lug and the frame. Not going to strip the whole bike apart just to find out, but everything is now working so I will enjoy riding it for now and hopefully nothing more will come out of the woodwork?

Have now done about 40 miles since putting it all back together and the clutch is now working fine.