Clutch push rod A10 Road Rocket

[Oscarmark]

Hi fellas,

My re-build is documented elsewhere on this forum, but my current problem relates specifically to the clutch.
When re-building I replaced the friction plates on my 4 spring clutch. Put it all back together but found that the clutch operating arm moved back and forth freely that is, there was no spring action.
Having seen a few replies where I originally posted ths question (frame) apologies!!! I removed the primary and checked the push rod. I did notice that the ball bearing was missing from the clutch cover plate.... Woud that be enough for the clutch not to spring back? When I operate the arm I can see the rod come out, obviously I have to push it back in. I have heard some owners adding ball bearings to effectively lengthen the rod. Mine measures 130mm.

Thanks in anticipation of some enlightenment

Mark

[bsa-bill]

the ball bearing when added is not to lengthen the rod (although it can be) but to remove some degree of arc to the movement of the rod this is achieved by cutting the rod about halfway and inserting the ball between the two halves ( like ball goes in half way along the tube ).
If you have the standard clutch cover there is no ball bearing in it, the rod locates in the hole (little blob of grease in there helps)
When you changed the plates did you put a plain plate in first, a friction plate first as shown in most exploded views is wrong.
there should be six plain and five friction plates, hence a plain plate first and last

Sorry if this means the drive side coming apart again

Bill

[Oscarmark]

The plates are in the correct order... With the clutch assembled.. When you pull the clutch lever in on the handlebar, what makes the lever return ? Am I missing a spring or something?

Confused!!

[chaterlea25]

Hi Mark,
Firstly 130 mm is waaaaayyyyy to short for a pushrod !!!! unless its in 2 halves as mentioned previously
There should be a ball bearing fixed into the actuating adjuster,
I just went out and measured a pushrod from a 4 spring clutch thats apart at the moment, 302mm
no guarantee its right though????
The pressure of the clutch springs returns the lever, cable etc

HTH
John

[bsa-bill]

Ah John beat me to the keyboard so forgive some duplication here

only springs involved are the four in the cups in the clutch cover.
When you pull in the clutch lever you compress those springs between the bottom of the cups (10942-3197) and the adjusting nuts on the end of the clutch spring pins (IC342-3189) these pins go through the  clutch centre hub(14942-3235) before you fit the hub onto the adaptor (not shown in diagram)
There are different depths of cup but if the clutch work prior to fitting the new plates the cups should be ok. there is also different lengths of rod as John sugested but as before if ti worked previous
If there is no pressure to be felt when you pull the clutch lever in then you  are not pulling against the springs and something is wrong in there

All the above assumes the adjuster just inside the gearbox cover is adjusted correctly, but you have stated that the rod moves in and out when you use the lever so should work the springs

[Oscarmark]

I think what has happened is when I removed the old gearbox and sent it off in exchange for a new one, the other piece of the push rod was still inside??
So a new push rod should do the trick.

Cheers

Mark

[Oscarmark]

New clutch push rod arrived today with a new set of clutch springs........... it is very long at 291mm... the old one was just 130mm. When the old one is inserted fully home, it extends beyond the clutch plates about the same as the 4 bolts. My question is.... how much do I cut off to leave it long enough that there is a return action when the clutch lever is pulled????

[chaterlea25]

Hi Mark,
Why cut it? try it as it arrived,
 I think maybe your not understanding the clutch operating mechanism??
When the handlebar lever is operated it moves the gearbox lever which in turn pushes the pushrod to separate the clutch plates against the clutch springs pressure
Search for posts on correct clutch lever adjustment, its very important to get this correct for good clutch action
Its been covered many times here
And or refer to service sheets, http://www.petercomley.com/BSA_Service_sheets.htm
HTH
John

[Oscarmark]

Hi John,

You are quite right I am not fully conversant with how the clutch operates, however, when the new rod is inserted it sticks out about 160mm!! What am I doing wrong???
The gearbox I have was an exchange unit having been fully re-built, as mentioned on an earlier post, as the clutch worked fine before the strip down, there could be a short section of the old push rod still inside?

I understand that the pressure of the rod acting on the back of the clutch plate and therefore the springs makes the clutch return.

Mark

[Oscarmark]

Ah... some news... Having just found out that you can insert the clutch push rod via the gearbox end, I removed an adjusting bolt and push the new rod through.... out popped the other section of the push rod!!

So it would seem that with the new 'uncut' push rod inserted and the adjuster screwed in slightly, then I will have enough of the rod sticking out to act on the springs of the pressure plate???

[Topdad]

Hi Mark , just read your previous posts and was just about to suggest looking for another piece of pushrod , glad you've sorted that ,as you are now coming to grips with the way things work make sure that you adjust the angle of the operating lever on the gearbox. Do this by looking at the end of the pushrod ( gear change end )where the actuating arm will bear on it ,move it onto the p/rod end just so yo can feel the pressure and lossen the nut you see and tighten in the screw, you'll see the arm move away from the gearbox casing. So when you've got the clutch lifting properly and squarely with the clutch lever against the bars ,look to see what angle is the actuating arm is at , it should be running roughly inline with the top edge of the box ,if its inboard of that line return the lever to rest and screw that adjusting screw inwards try again until adjusted right and tighten the locknut. Then check cables adjust so that there is some play at rest at the handlebar lever end don't over do it just enough to see it move and finish once you are able to use the bike. Hope thats of some help BobH

[bsa-bill]

Glad you've got it sorted, bit of misunderstanding of the problem on our part methinks, just  goes to show the value of couple of pics here and there

[RichardL]

MAYBE this is a reasonable addition to Bob's instructions. It is possible to get correct operating arm angle and clutch operation while the actuating arm (under the gearbox cover) attacks the pushrod from a steep angle and is not centered on the rod. This can deform the end of the rod. I believe the best adjustment occurs when the operating arm moves as Bob has described, while the actuating arm moves through the same angle on both sides of the midpoint of the arc of travel. If it is significantly off from this, either the length of the pushrod needs to be changed or the actuating arm needs to be repositioned on the splines of the operating arm shaft.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

Well, maybe I didn't say that right. The actuating arm should be parallel to the length of the bike at the midpoint of the arc of travel.

Richard L.

[Oscarmark]

Thanks again... I plan to put it all together on Saturday and will let you know how I get on....

Your advice has been invaluable and very much appreciated!

I am hoping to start the bike soon!!!