Well what a disastrous rebuild this has been

[bikerboy]

Well barring a couple of little snags the damned thing is finished.

Magneto rebuilt and its a first kick every time scenario now 

I also cured the wet sumping with a wet sumping valve even tho I know a lot of people don't like them

After 3 50/60 mile rides I remember now exactly why I fell in love with A10's over 40 years ago, its damned gorgeous 

[muskrat]

Great to hear bikerboy. Now for many miles of smiles.
Do you have a failsafe on the valve?
Cheers

[bikerboy]

Muskrat

Its one of those inline valves that go in the feed pipe.

I know a lot of people don't seem to like them but I cant see how they can fail. Its a ball bearing with a spring the same as the original idea, surely the only things that go wrong will mean the ball bearing does not seal therefore enabling the engine to wet sump again. I cant see what else can go wrong with it.

[muskrat]

I just worry about anything restricting the flow. I supose it would be one of the safest type valves to use.
Cheers

[Topdad]

Sorry to say Bikerboy but they can fail, I had one from a well known source and after the winter layup mine had sealed shut . The first start this year developed into hunt the problem which turned out to be the valve .I pulled out the circlip amd removed ball and spring ,problem solved full flow returned . So keep on checking each time you start her for the return . Mine now wet sumps with the best but I'm happy, regards BobH. 

[bikerboy]

Topdad

I do aim to keep a very close eye on things but for the moment I am stuck with things until I can do the A65 type mod. Luckily I don't lay mine up for the winter, I might not ride them much but I make sure they are all started and oil circulation checked at least once a week 

[RichardL]

Re: A65 mod. Be sure to get a look at the current wet-sumpng thread (you probably are), particularly Richard's (Orabanda) comments.

Richard L.

[stu.andrews]

Hi bikerboy. Get rid of the anti wet sumping valve! They do fail as the previous owner of my A7 found out to his cost (a lot of cost!!). If you have an SRM sump plate with a drain bolt just quickly drain the sump before a ride. It only takes a couple of minutes & it's peace of mind. Put the content back in the tank, keeping it clean of course. A 20/50 will often cause wet sumping. I use a straight 40 & the problem has almost gone.

[bikerboy]

manosound

Yes I read that thread about 5 minutes after posting that comment and now I am having a drastic rethink 

stu

I don't use an srm sump plate and yes I run on straight 40 oil as well. I am totally undecided about the wet sumping valves as I know a couple of people who have run them for years no problems and the old velo's had them fitted as standard.

The way I see it what can fail that could not have failed on the standard setup ? There is a ball and a spring the same as the standard a10 crankcase setup. Should the spring snap then the bearing will allow the engine to wet sump again please educate me as to what else could fail ? Admittedly crap in the oil could block the valve but then it could block the normal crankcase valve as well if it came to it.

I know this argument has been raised on this forum a fair few times and I admit if the standard ball bearing and spring was easier to reach I would not have a wet sumping valve but if its not necessarily as easy as two minutes emptying the sump is it. What if it floods into the chaincase, which is not uncommon. That is more than a couple of minutes to drain off and trust me in about 3 days mine will totally empty the oil tank and when I drain it and pour it back into the tank the level is always down quite drastically so I know its filling the chaincase as well. Maybe I should fit a sender and an oil light on the thing to at least give me peace of mind.

[muskrat]

 My '51 A7 will empty the tank into the sump in about 2 weeks and yes it flows into the primary as well.
Primary level screw out, sump plug out, refit and refill tank, takes 5 minutes. Enough time to run the eye over the rest of the bike to make sure it's all OK.
Cheers

[RichardL]

Or, run to the fidge for a beer.

[bikerboy]

muskrat

Mine is not that easy the drain bolt for the primary chaincase is behind the footrest and is a so and so to reach. I don't have an srm sump so need to unbolt the plate remove it and there are two gaskets one either side of the plate which I would not want to disturb every other week.

The ideal solution is to strip the cases and reseat the valve new spring etc and I will do this when I have time. I am also in the process of rebuilding a 1952 plunger A10 and a Triumph Trident as well as having a triba that's leaking from the damned pushrod tubes so I went for the easy quick fix, I wont say cheap as the anti sumping valve was £37. Not perfect but as I said I know of at least 3 people that are using them and nobody has had one iota of trouble. The oil is changed regularly and I check the circulation every time I start it so I don't think it will be a problem, it is started at least weekly as well so I am pretty sure it will be ok.

[muskrat]

The primary level plug not the drain.
No worries mate. Good luck with it.

Richard the beer fridge is 3ft from the bike!
Cheers

[RichardL]

To Do List:

Fridge for the garage.

[bikerboy]

muskrat

My level plug is under the chaincase the bolt type rocket gold star type and its a bitch to teach with the footrests and the exhausts  unless one of the screws drains it but I don't think so