54 A10 tidy up

[Richard]

Well the 3/8 bsf helicoil kit came today so I can repair the stripped thread in the barrel and get the head back on. Have picked the mudgaurds up today from the sandblaster's and have filled and flattened all the dings and dents and have just got back from Swindon where I have dropped them in to have them Powdercoated should be ready tomorrow night.
The fork shrouds and the headlight cowl are fitted so should be able to get on with a bit more tonight nothing better than fettling in the garage.
Richard

[Richard]

Seeing as no one else is repling to my chat message from yesterday I might as well reply to myself
The disapointing news was that the powder coaters are haveing problems with the filler on the fromt mudgaurd apparently the powder is soaking into the filler and shows through the powder coat so they are going to flat it off and try again on Monday and try to feather it in more time will tell if it does not look to good I will have to rub it down and wet spray it ,so I will not have it back together by the end of the weekend.
Still I have plenty to do will try to clean the alloy parts up as they are all pitted and dirty, finish the wiring loom and refit the rear chain after its clean and grease tub bath polish a bit of chrome then all that will be left to do after the mudgaurd job will to be to fit them and oil tank and chain gaurd. so by the end of next week can someone promise me some dry bright weather to go out for a run.
Managed to take the T100 out today for a short run a friend had problems with his throttle cable I suspected he had lost the cable ferral so I took a spare one with me I was right soon had it sorted so we rode back to mine together for a chat and some tea.
I have attached a photo of his bike it has his son's girlfriend on it (a leaving present for him from his mates before he went into the army)Peter (my friend) says he has put her away in a trunk now but I do not know wether to believe him or not.
Catch up with you soon out to the garage for a while now
Richard

[RichardL]

Richard,

I may be be wrong, and others will correct me if I am, but it has been my understanding that one does not apply powder coating over any amount of filler or old paint. The material, as I understand it, must go straight onto bare metal that is polarized opposite of the particles emerging from the powder-coat spray gun. It is most unlikely for filler to be polarized to the same extent as the conductive metal. Even if the filler gets polarized, there seems a good chance of roasting it during the powder-coat baking process. In my opinion, your tinware with body-filler repairs should be painted with polyurethane or laquer. If you insist on powder coat, I believe the filler must be brass from brazing or, maybe, lead (which I am less sure of). To keep it honest and real, I have no actual experience getting parts powder coated. So, for this one, I only knows what peoples tell me.


Richard L.

[Richard]

Richard
That was my understanding as well but the powder coaters assured me tha they could powder coat over filler but there was a chance that it may show however they said they had succesfully powdered over filler before with good results. However it is or will not be the end of the earth I will see what is like on Monday and then if need be flat it off and spray over the powder coat. it will end up ok  but may take a little longer.
Richard

[bsa-bill]

Yes the first powder coater I used said fillers were ok in small amounts

All the best = Bill

[RichardL]

Richard and Bill,

Not to beat this thing to death, though we sometimes do that here just for fun, what I am finding on the web is that regular filler is a problem and that there are specialty fillers that could be used. One which touts itself as such is:

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Content.asp?id=20

I have no idea what this stuff is like. I just snatched the link from the web. There are, no doubt, others better or more common. I think the problem is that regular body filler can't hold up to 450 deg. F for the time it takes to set the powder.

Why do I have the feeling that before this topic is up I will be yelping and running away with my tail between my legs?

Richard L.

[Richard]

Richard
I will take some photos and give a report on the mudguard when I get them back no need to yelp or put the old tail between the legs as this is something that will be of interest to all that are contemplating powder coating.
I have a feeling that it will not be a good result and filler is not a good idea.
the problem with the front mudguard was that someone in the past had had a go at beating the dents out only to put loads of small dings in it which I could not flatten out I had a mate look at it who used to do body repairs and he said it would be near impossible to braze or weld to get it flat for powder coating without using filler unless we cut large chunks away and made new bits up to weld in and grind off, Just not worth the agro for a tidy up would be better to source a new mudguard later on.
Richard

[RichardL]

Richard,
I suppose you've seen the pictures of my bike at the "Bikes" topic. My front fender was, basically, bent in half. After bending, pounding, beating, dollying, brazing, grinding, filing, filling and sanding, I finally got it into condition to take paint. I managed to keep the filler quite thin. One of the trickiest things was getting the edge beads to keep a line and look uniform.

Richard L.

[Richard]

Richard
I intend to (if the powder coating is no good) flat the mudguard down and wet spray it using a good old Halfords Gloss black can, I have had some good results with them and  when cut back the finish is very good.
As said I will take photos when I get them back and again if I have to spray them
Richard

[bsa-bill]

Hi Manosound - now the temp you quote (450) is interesting, I don't think the first frame I got powder coated could have been subjected to temps that high as I left the bushes in the S/A and replaced them after it had been powder coated (kind of a*** first I agree) thing is the rubber in them seemed ok, this was done by the guy who reckoned fillers would be fine.
The other frame I had done elsewhere and I removed the bushes beforehand and the guy who did this one said he would remove fillers I had in the frame and braze it for me as the fillers would melt out with the heat.
Second guy was more expensive but I think did a better job

All the best - Bill

[bsa-bill]

Richard I have used the Halfords black you refer to - I think it's an excellent paint.

All tthe best - Bill

[Richard]

Well the mudguards and bits came back tonight what a disaster never mind.
they assured me they had powdered over filler before but this filler was not having any of it on hindsight I would probably have been better of using plastic metal filler.The powder coat is cured at 190 degree's C so the filler should take the temperture.
I spent some time rubbing it down with 240 grade wet and dry then finished with 1200 grade and have now given it about three coats it is looking a lot better I will flat it of with 1500 grade wet and dry tomorrow and give it about three more coats then in about a week or maybe two I will cut it back with compound and polish it back up.
Now can anyone tell me where to get the registration number plate black backgrounds and white numbers that go onto the front mudguards as I think I will need to hide on small imperfection on the side of the mudguard
Richard

[LJ.]

Your doing well Richard!

Concerning number plates... I sprayed mine black and got some stick on numbers from a sign writer only cost about £2 then after applying the stick ons I then went over the whole lot with black brush on paint leaving a slightly raised surface where the numbers are. I then use a sign writers brush and applied an off white eggshel oil based paint so that it looks like the numbers were sign written on. Finish off after two coats with some semi gloss varnish. Jobs a good un. Lot of work but looks really authentic. I somehow don't think you would want to go to all that amount of fuss! 

[Richard]

LJ
I have just given the mudguard another coat and have quite a good finish but there is still a bit of reaction to the filler for some reason on one side at the front.It has got better as I have  now rubbed the mudguard down about 5 times and have given it a good few coats inbetween.
The reason I want to go down the stick on route with a black backing is to hide the slight mark on the side of the gaurd.
The other option I have just thought of is to have some alloy embossed ones made as I intend to have one made for the back.
The only thing is that there are plenty making rear plates but I have not found any one that makes front ones.
If anyone has a contact for those then please shout
Regards
Richard
PS BSA branch night tonight so will not be about until later