Rocker box

[bikerboy]

I bought a cylinder head off ebay recently for my Super Rocket, that is near finished :). Its an alloy head and was to replace the alloy head that was already on it. I had also previously bought a new set of rocker box bolts (the 4 long ones and the back one) These are 26 tpi cycle but I see that some are 22 tpi ? Now as my bolts dont fit the alloy head I bought of ebay but they do fit the 3 other alloy heads that I have, is it possible I need the 22 tpi ones or are they for an iron head and some idiot has retapped this head with the wrong threads.

I have no idea what the 22 tpi ones fit or what year they are for but they are identical to the ones I have barring the thread size.

Before you ask why I bought another head this one had been adapted for twin carbs and yes I know I should realise that I am no longer 18 but I cant resist acting like I am lol.

[muskrat]

 G'day bikerboy. Bolts should be 5/16" CEI 26 tpi. 22 tpi is BSF. Head bolts are BSF.
Cheers

[bsa-bill]

, is it possible I need the 22 tpi ones or are they for an iron head and some idiot has retapped this head with the wrong threads.

Hi bikerboy
I had to heliciol the barrel on my Rocket as it looked like someone had cleaned the head bolt holes with a wrong tap, head bolts would not go anywhere near torque, worked in  a fashion just a couple of holes off square a smidgeon - been a success though  no head leaks which brings me to my point  -- don't forget the head bolt washers are extra thickness ones might even be different metal, others here will know

[bikerboy]

Muskrat

Normally I would agree but ................................................

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290817652720?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648

When I ordered my first set of rocker box bolts I never looked closely and ordered these. I then returned them and got them changed for the 26 tpi ones which of course fitted the old head.

There is more than one supplier selling these BSF ones so maybe there is an odd year where BSA changed it for some reason or another and I am unlucky enough to have a head that was part of that change. Three of the 4 threads dont appear to have been tampered with (one is helicoiled) but I dont want to order yet another set of bolts only to find out that they dont fit either. Looks like I will have to track down a bsf bolt to see if that fits 

All this for twin carbs for gods sake I really must grow up 

[bikerboy]

bsa-bill

Thanks for that, I had already ordered the washers and new head bolts from draganfly, the head is on fine its just this stupid rocker box problem

[muskrat]

G'day mate, net been down 4 days, just saw your post.
The year your head was made '54-'55 the part # is 42-0062. I usually go here http://www.stainlessbits.com/link12.html to reference. He may be wrong. Both mine have been helicoiled to Whitworth.
Cheers

[bikerboy]

Cheers muskrat I have managed to solve the problem. Some idiot had helicoiled them to M8, yes metric for gods sake its now half a honda 

I honestly cant believe anybody would helicoil a brit bike to metric.

BTW my cylinder head is the late SR type but I still dont know which head uses the BSF rocker box bolts that are being sold.

Fortunately I am also rebuilding a plunger frame model, also with an alloy head so I can use the new set of cycle bolts that I bought on that.

[RichardL]

Basically, I just picked the most recent "Rocker Box" topic for moaning about installing mine last night.

I was trying a different approach, for me, of applying sealer only to the box as stickum for the gasket, then, sealer to the gasket. This way, I expecteed to be able to keep the pushrod comb out of the sealer. This might have worked had I not started the studs in their holes a bit askew, which would not straighten out until I took the box off again.

Tick-tock.

Time is passing and sealer is becoming less fluid. Also, noticed assembly grease  from the pushrod tips mixed with sealer. By this time, thinking this seemed like minor contamination. Refitting the studs to the holes was fine the second time. Struggling a little with comb, tried fingers. Wow, you guys who say you can reach in and adjust them may have missed your calling as concert pianists. No way with my not-totally-fat fingers. Now, go looking for my stick mirror to confirm the fit in the cups. OK, tear the garage apart seaching for the mirror and the flashlight.

Tick-tock.

Fiinally got everything in place. Top bolts and underside rear nuts tightened. Start the front nut struggle. Wrong nuts, too tall. Start the search for shorter nuts.

Tick-tock.

Find the right nuts. Oops, need the little artist's spatula I use to position these nuts. Finally, all together and hoping for leak-free, despite the sealer offenses.

The moral of the story is, preparation is 75% (or more) of the job, and I really failed that part.

Richard L.

[muskrat]

Yes Richard, it's good practice to have all the bits needed close at hand (in a tray under the bike so can be got to from both sides). I rarely use a comb (brush works better on helmethead ), I use elastic bands to keep the rockers up. The ex p/rods usually find their own way home and a dentists hook takes care of the inlet. Goo head side of gasket and place it on, goo the box and lower. Those pesky front nuts are a pain but not as hard as a plunger/rigid head steady with a big fin head.
Cheers

[Butch (cb)]

The A10 guy who used to write for Classic Bike Guide - Andrew Wilson (I think?) had a canny trick for lining the pushrods up using bits of hose wedged in. Then he could fit the rocker box sans comb. Foolishly I've long since lost sight of whatever edition that was in - unless I dreamt it? Anyone else remember that one, or even tried it?

The whole idea of mounting the rockers in the cover, and then running a head steady up to that as well is quite quite diseased in my eyes.

[Rgs-Bill]

Yes Richard, it's good practice to have all the bits needed close at hand (in a tray under the bike so can be got to from both sides). I rarely use a comb (brush works better on helmethead ), I use elastic bands to keep the rockers up. The ex p/rods usually find their  way home more easily and a dentists hook takes care of the inlet. Goo head side of gasket and place it on, goo the box and lower. Those pesky front nuts are a pain but not as hard as a plunger/rigid head steady with a big fin head.
Cheers

RGS-BILL here, I am with Musky, the exhaust ones usually are not a problem, I am running a 67-357 cam so you have to back the rocker adjusters all the way off, then you still have one valve that will be open a tiny bit as you bolt down the rocker nuts, but I am getting ahead of myself,  now I did not have a dentists hook to use, so I had a roll of mechanics wire , and just cut 2  8 inch pieces and made a pull type hook in the end, and a push type reverse hook, with needle nose pliers, for positioning the exhaust & Intake push rods.  Never force the rocker cover down, if you have to do that something is DIS-COMBOBULATED, fricking out of place, or not slacked off enough !!!!    my 2 cents worth.

                      BILL

[Topdad]

great why of describing it Bill,will add discombobulated to my list of words when I finally get round to redoing mine,it,ll be the only clean one !! I used to have a mate with the required long dextrous fingers could flip 'em in faster than you could blink ,always managed to get a dry top end ,shame He's moved away, so now I struggle , take care ,BobH

[morris]

The A10 guy who used to write for Classic Bike Guide - Andrew Wilson (I think?) had a canny trick for lining the pushrods up using bits of hose wedged in. Then he could fit the rocker box sans comb. Foolishly I've long since lost sight of whatever edition that was in - unless I dreamt it? Anyone else remember that one, or even tried it?

Yep, remember reading the article to. But don't recall the edition either
Tried doing it from memory, but ended up using bits of bent wire.....