New Member 1952 A10 won't start.

[js52gf]

Hi all, This is my first post. I have been searching for information & found a lot on this forum related to the 1952 Golden Flash I am trying to restore. The bike belongs to my neighbor, it was her fathers that passed away about 8 years ago. He had disassembled the bike but not the motor & had gotten the frame & several parts powder coated & chromed before passing. I am not a mechanic by trade but usualy can fix my own problems. I am located close to Peoria, Illinois (USA).
The problem I having is not starting. The motor had a stuck valve from sitting when I started, after cleaning valve stem/guide & reassembling this seems fine. I scraped some carbon from the head where the intake port is passing through the push rod cavity a large chunk came off creating an opening between the intake port & push rod cavity. Is this normal? I have 120 PSI compression on both cylinders, an Amal 276 or 376 carb. Set mag timing to 11/32 BTDC  on compression stroke (right cylinder) with .0015" thick tissue paper just releasing from points. Have new NGK B6HS plugs gapped at .018"  & see a spark for each plug. Brass contact on mag is contacts with right cylinder HT lead. I have attempted using starting fluid. Kicked like a mule for 3 days and no ignition.

[muskrat]

 G'day js52gf, welcome to the forum. We've got quite a few members in the states now.
" I scraped some carbon from the head where the intake port is passing through the push rod cavity a large chunk came off creating an opening between the intake port & push rod cavity. Is this normal?" NO. If I understand you right inlet gas can pass into the push rod chamber. So instead of sucking air/fuel mixture it will be getting air from that chamber. Hence no go.
 You might be able to get it welded up or look around for another head. Any model iron head will fit, '54 on had larger fins. Alloy heads will fit but on a plunger getting a carb to fit is a problem.
Post a picture or three, I'd like to see that.
Cheers

[js52gf]

muskrat, thanks for the reply. I am on my 3rd attempt at posting a picture.
Here is a pic of the head with rocker's removed. I don't understand what could have caused this. There was no hole apparent until I started scraping carbon off with a screw driver & a large piece of what appeared to be carbon came off that was cavering this hole. The material removed was easily crumbled in my fingers.

[Brian]

Now that is seriously weird, I've never seen anything like it.

What size is the inlet tract where the carby bolts on, it should be 1 1/16". I'm thinking maybe someone has "ported" the head and gone too far. I had a look at a head and the metal should be nearly 1/4" thick at that point. I dont think it is a casting fault or it would have fell out years ago.

It has to be either repaired or another head is required.

I wonder what would have happened it if had drawn enough fuel mixture into the engine and ignited !

[muskrat]

BOOMBrian, I've seen it happen. Not pretty.
Yes I'd say someone has been a little over enthusiastic with a porting tool. Saw a twin carb head like that once. No not mine .
I think even if it could be repaired gas flow would be affected resulting in induction bias that no gasket could cure. It would make a nice book end.
Sorry for such news on your first topic but look on the bright side. At least you know why it wouldn't start, and you've had good practice at ignition timing.
390542693825 ebay looks good big fin. Or small fin closer to you 181055614654 .Or this  280803911555 is a bit pricy but his bits are usually good, doh just saw broken fin, but yours could be a donor.
Cheers
Good for brownie points from a next door floosie. LOL.

[js52gf]

Thanks a lot for your quick responses. This forum is a valuable tool for anyone owning or working on A7's or A10's. I' trying to resize a pic to show my progress before starting to tear things apart again.
I have shown the head picture & forum comments to my friend who works on stock car engines. He suggested plugging with JB Weld. Saying it should not be to hot at the intake valve. I think Brian may be correct about the porting tool. I'll try to get more information from my neighbors mother, she seems to know the most about the bikes history. Have any of you tried to use JB Weld on a BSA head?

[muskrat]

 I have used JB on a small crack on an a65 head but not in an important spot like yours. Imagine the damage if it came adrift. It was probably a similar patch up that you found.
Cheers

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
I thought of the JB weld, but decided not to suggest it???
I think the problem would be trying to clean the cast iron properly to remove any trace of oil???
That said I have seen it used successfully to reattach a cooling fin on a veteran Triumph engine
Now that runs HOT!!!

Cheers
John

[WozzA]

PLEASE dont go the cheap ar$e tempary fix route.. ( it will come back to bite you in the bum ) 
the bike looks beautifull & deserves to be repaired correctly ...
Andy should be able to sort you out with another head..
http://a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,6571.0.html 
Cheers... Woz

[RichardL]

js52GF,

Hello and welcome to the forum. to my knowledge, you are the third Illinoian on the Forum - you, Motomike (southern Illinois) and me (Naperville). have you been to the Davenport Show and Swap Meet ("jumble" to the rest of you)? I met-up with Mike there and will probabaly attend this year, as well.

Regarding the infamous hole, I'm wondering why our friends from Oz, as well as John in the UK, are not enthusiastic about welding it. Perhaps getting a good weld on the cast iron is the problem. If a good weld were possible, it would likely lump into the intake chamber where you could grind it out in the same manner attempted by some previous owner. I agree that it must be porting damage, the shape implies a disk tool that went in strong toward the intake end and tried to feather out toward the cylinder end. In slight diasagreement with Muskrat (now I'm in deep trouble), I would think that some minor distortions in the intake chamber where you dressed the weld would not make a lot of difference unless you're into high performance (BTW, that's Muskrat doing a wheelie in his avatar picture). I haven't looked at the eBay links yet to see the prices, so, maybe, welding just isn't worth the trouble.

Richard L.

[wilko]

Ordinary mig welding will fill that in. I've welded up sidevalve heads on M20's doing this.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg3/takka22/000_0894.jpg

[bsa-bill]

trouble with a weld is the thickness of what is left there to tag to, if it was damage due to porting then chances are it's going to be quite thin for a distance around the hole, this is going to be problematic when welding cast - at least I think so as it's a long time since I did any welding and sure rods and wire might be much improved but the heat put into thin metal around the hole might well weaken the cast.
I stand to be corrected on this indeed I'd love to hear of newish methods of welding

[muskrat]

How did that run Wilco? Better compression but the flame front would have to do a U turn to get all the mix.
John, you'd be surprised at how much difference a little difference in port shape can make.If it takes a bias gasket to help a std head it would take quite a few to help a head like that. It probably could be done but you'd need a flow bench and an engineer that works very cheaply to do it. Bill has a good point as to the thickness of the head (mine's very thick) around the hole, maybe a patch over the hole. WozzA has a good point
I just think it would be more cost effective to get another head
Cheers.

[chaterlea25]

HI All,
I think a few jerseys have been mixed up here  ???? ???? ???? ????

Musky, I made no reference to welding the head , I would not be in favour of it.

Richard, Check out the Tricolour at the bottom of my postings, I'm Very proud to be Irish   

Regards
John

[Brian]

Whilst it could be welded I too would not go that way unless there was no alternative. There would be problems with the stability of the weld and as Musky has said you definitely dont want a piece of it falling out. The other side is also probably close to falling apart as well.

No unfortunately you are going to have to find another head. Not a difficult thing to find but the weight is going to mean postage from anywhere else in the world will be terribly expensive.

Finding one in the states is your best option, maybe our other USA members could suggest where to start looking.