6 Spring Clutch Adjustment

[Butch (cb)]

Managed to get the thing working about right after the rebuild. With the low mechanical advantage lever I could just get it to clear at one end and engage at the other, though the lever pressure is quite 'firm'. Following a run in period I am finding the clutch 'soft' now and with some slip when pushing on. So I'm going to pull the primary case this weekend and wind it down some more, which of course will give me an even harder pull at the bars. I don't want to overdo it therefore; what's the best approach to tightening such that I'm just not getting the clutch slipping when fully engaged?

BTW - Already tried ATF; it just seems to leak out a bit quicker. And yes, I will replace the entire unit some time; but that won't be happening at the moment.

Many thanks.

[Topdad]

Good morning cyclo, i'd continue with this unit but not spend anything on it whilst looking for a resonably priced 4 springer ,I'm afraid I can't find any saving graces for the 6 spring unit although I know some people on this forum make a very good job of them and like them I never have been able to and have always stuck with the 4 spring unit .Even an old clapped out 4 spring is in my view less long term pain than a 6 springer will be , I'll wait to stand corrected but thats my tuppence worth, best of luck , BobH

[Goldy]

All the  A7s and  A10 that I have had I have stuck with the 6 spring clutch. As you say you do need strong hands to operate and the adjustment needs to be sufficient to stop it slipping and whilst tightening up keep operating the clutch. Personally I take the nuts up as far as I can so that I can just pull the lever. The important thing is to spend time on getting it square, it can be done, I use the depth gauge  end of a vernier calliper and ensure that the outer plate pulls off square. All the best with it.

[bonny]

Managed to get the thing working about right after the rebuild. With the low mechanical advantage lever I could just get it to clear at one end and engage at the other, though the lever pressure is quite 'firm'. Following a run in period I am finding the clutch 'soft' now and with some slip when pushing on. So I'm going to pull the primary case this weekend and wind it down some more, which of course will give me an even harder pull at the bars. I don't want to overdo it therefore; what's the best approach to tightening such that I'm just not getting the clutch slipping when fully engaged?

BTW - Already tried ATF; it just seems to leak out a bit quicker. And yes, I will replace the entire unit some time; but that won't be happening at the moment.

Many thanks.

I tried the "keep tightening the nuts" method routine with a clutch on my triumph after i foolishly used multigrade oil (the clutch shares the engine oil) , it lead in pretty short order to snapped clutch cables , a very heavy action and it stilled slipped. i have a six spring clutch for my a10 and i hope not to use it , the triumph clutch is a better and simpler device.

[beezermacc]

My method for adjusting the 6-spring is to set the springs three at a time. First of all slacken all springs right off then set three alternate springs until there is some feel on the clutch lever and the plates run true, then set the other three at about the same tension and the plates run true. Keep tightening in groups of three and checking that the plates run true until you have a clutch which doesn't slip. I've got six springs on my A7SS and my plunger a10 - no probs with either.

[0116harley]

Hi cyclo i spent maybe a day setting up my 6 spring clutch. First job was to file all the burs of the clutch plates and basket. Then i made sure the metal plates were flat. Then with the bike on the centre stand and all nuts tighten up slightly, i used a felt tip pen as a fixed marker and made sure that the pen line was the same thicknes all the way round the clutch plate. The end result is a clutch that works really well. I can get neutral when the bikes runing no problem. And maybe saved myself £300 on a four spring clutch
cheers Neil

[Butch (cb)]

I think that the trick is to determine at what point the clutch won't slip. I pulled the chain case on Monday and then put the footrest, brake pedal and exhaust back on and went riding with a spanner in my pocket. First surprise was just how much oil continues to throw from the clutch. Working on the basis that the clutch was mostly working before, and despite the fact that I could see a wobble I then adjusted all of the nuts down by the same amount until I couldn't detect any slip when pushing on (I have no rev counter fitted). 3/4 of a turn each seemed to do it. Though one of the springs felt a lot less tensioned than the others.

I've now reassembled and topped off with ATF again, as recomended by someone here before. It is of course firmer at the bars, and I can just (just) find neutral at a stand still, though to be honest on all my bikes I have the habit of hitting neutral before stopping.

Question - As I shall be looking to replace the entire set up when I'm a little more flush with money I figured I'd count teeth whilst I was in there. I'm perfectly happy with the gearing on the bike at the moment so wouldn't want this to change. I have 21 teeth on the engine sprocket and 43 on the clutch drum. Is that pretty much std?

[shuswapkev]

i have a b33 with the same clutch. i recorked the orignal plates with flooring cork..
 the only way i could get the clutch to work ( how can they  slip and not disengage at he same time???) was t oset the pressure plate with a dial guage

then it worked very well...easily find neutral at a stoplight

[BSA_54A10]

I shove the wheel into something solid like a retaining wall.
Put the bike in top gear then tighten the the clutch till it no longer slips when being kicked over.
From here tighten the springs another 1/2 turn and check by letting the clutch out in gear with the engine running.
It should labour & stall ( you do not stall the engine )