Author Topic: Rusty  (Read 14441 times)

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #75 on: 17.06. 2016 23:43 »
Bodger your reply prompted me to dig out the SR and take a motivational photo to push me forward.
Need to do some lists. Its quite close if I pulled my finger out.
2 minutes after wheeling it out it started raining  *roll* as I was going to look at why the (repro) mainstand hangs so low.
The bike does need a grab handle for the mainstand.
I'll try and move things along  *whistle*

Also a front end pic. the brake hub is flanged unlike the original thin shoe hub but I think it keeps a more period super rocket hub style
Tim
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #76 on: 01.07. 2016 23:33 »
I've taken off the mainstand (I recall it is a repro)  : on review its 1. twisted 2. has a worn pivot pin 3. has the stops welded to compensate for wear (in the pattern it was taken from  *dunno*) 4.  doesnt retract far enough and 5. the arm that helps put it on the stand points is way too low...

so its being straightened, getting a tighter pin made and will take to it with the angle grinder to tuck it up better and remove the arm (made to clear a muffler that doesnt exist -as siamese pipes)

Also need to progress wiring in the DVR2 and have given the old dynamo a clean - more wiring to be connected yet too (not my forte, but needs must)

I'm going to park the sidestand fitting for the time being, the repro one I bought is rubbish, and another one I have might be off a unit model and has other issues.

Am also planning to clean out the tank internals with (diluted) phosphoric acid then PA10 the insides.
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Offline Scott and Jay

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #77 on: 05.07. 2016 04:16 »
Hi Rocket Racer

It's good to see the progress on a local A10. John Saywell put top-hat bushes in my frame mounts for the new pin to pivot in. I bought one of a batch of centre stands that Graham Stott had manufactured years ago. He still mine have one

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #78 on: 21.07. 2016 06:16 »
My A75 export tank is now on its way home from Custom Chrome in Gisborne and I've had my B33 tank repaired (once again  *problem* ).
So once I've got the A75 tank I'll treat the tanks for the single, the twin and the triple  *woo*
Mainstand's still at the engineers.
My A10 rig (aka Bender) will be on the NZCMRR stand at the Motorcycle show at Auckland showgrounds in Aug 13/14th
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Offline bodger

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #79 on: 24.07. 2016 12:05 »
Hey Tim, great stuff here!

Now I see the back to back drums, brilliant!

 the 1.5" or the A65 1.625" SLS single sided drums?

So...the one hub with both bearings is bolted to the other drum, center cut out..tricky alignment, or maybe not...and what was welded to what if you don't mind?

For backing plates and hardware, I can't tell what the brake plate was from?

As to the A10 front brake....what hub is it?..It doesn't quite look like the 190mm hub, but I didn't see a good view of it yet.

I like the retro look of it, it's the brake both BSA and Triumph ought to have had, what a bunch of bums, haha..

What it looks like now is the full width cast iron SLS brake drum from the 64-66? SLS Triumph with the spokes showing like they do, but Improved to the 2LS design. Very nice!

So was that the Triumph/BSA 2LS front brake that you turned down?... those are pretty fugly and excessively flashy IMHO. I may have to do that on my Bonnie, of course it'll really get too much attention from those that know and care, so that's fun too.

   I will have to see if the Triumph 2LS plate can be fitted to the 190mm brake cause that would be great. The Eddie Dow 2LS plates are now pricey and rare, and Phil Pearson I think is making them again...something like $800ish just for the plate with hardware IIRC. Maybe that IS the 190mm hub you used and I missed that part..., very possible, heh.

Keep it up, good work!

Offline jachenbach

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #80 on: 24.07. 2016 17:14 »
I wonder if Rusty is due for a name change?

Offline nimrod650

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #81 on: 24.07. 2016 18:39 »
I recon 'rusty' is going to be ok.I agree with Musky,it looks good like it is.  Looks like it has had extra chrome added which is always going to look worse if left unattended. It has alloy rims which is nice . I may have to think of a new description of my first A10 project though.It makes 'rusty' look like a show bike! I must dig out some pics.
Good luck with all.
Cheers. Mark   
you know what they say polished chrome wont get you home  *smiley4*

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #82 on: 24.07. 2016 22:16 »
Hey Tim, great stuff here!

Now I see the back to back drums, brilliant!

 the 1.5" or the A65 1.625" SLS single sided drums?

So...the one hub with both bearings is bolted to the other drum, center cut out..tricky alignment, or maybe not...and what was welded to what if you don't mind?

For backing plates and hardware, I can't tell what the brake plate was from?

As to the A10 front brake....what hub is it?..It doesn't quite look like the 190mm hub, but I didn't see a good view of it yet.

I like the retro look of it, it's the brake both BSA and Triumph ought to have had, what a bunch of bums, haha..

What it looks like now is the full width cast iron SLS brake drum from the 64-66? SLS Triumph with the spokes showing like they do, but Improved to the 2LS design. Very nice!

So was that the Triumph/BSA 2LS front brake that you turned down?... those are pretty fugly and excessively flashy IMHO. I may have to do that on my Bonnie, of course it'll really get too much attention from those that know and care, so that's fun too.

   I will have to see if the Triumph 2LS plate can be fitted to the 190mm brake cause that would be great. The Eddie Dow 2LS plates are now pricey and rare, and Phil Pearson I think is making them again...something like $800ish just for the plate with hardware IIRC. Maybe that IS the 190mm hub you used and I missed that part..., very possible, heh.

Keep it up, good work!

The sidecars front brake is a pair of A65 hubs; the half sides hub is a 2 piece unit pressed together, so initially we pressed the non brake half out, machined up a joining spacer piece and pressed both halves to it. But several years of abuse highlighted that cast iron doesnt flex well  *whistle* and both bearing carriers from the original halves broke up. So a new bearing carrier and drum carrier was machined up and the remnants of the two hubs bolted to it. This is nice and strong, and still weighs a lot, but its very effective and hasnt required going 4LS.

Rusty's original front brake was a humble 60/61 narrow shoe SLS full width with peeling chrome. So I bit the bullet and sourced a nice relatively cheap 68-70 group TLS brake and got that laced in. I also have a box of late old 8" hubs and plates (front and rear) so hatched a plan to modify the correct SR type 8" plate to TLS operation while ignoring the period fashion of air scoops. So no fancy 190mm stuff, just cooking 8" But the plate is a modified 60/61 SLS plate. I might have polished it but came to the conclusion that painting the centre silver was a more period and cheaper.

Looking back at the bike when I got it, I sometimes wish I'd left it a tatty bitsa and just made it reliable, but once I'd found some correct and very shiny parts suddenly I had a mish mash if I didnt go right through it.

So I managed to line three of my tanks over the weekend with PA10 having rinsed them with phosphoric acid and hosed them out, which will be an interesting experiment. My B33 tank which is pre centre mounting has a history of needing regular repair.   
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Offline duTch

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #83 on: 24.07. 2016 23:04 »

 
Quote
I wonder if Rusty is due for a name change?

 Maybe 'Notso' ?  *smile*
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
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Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #84 on: 25.07. 2016 04:25 »
Hopefully it might even evolve into old faithful, rather than the bastard... ;)
I'm happy with rusty, now more ironic but it was accurate when I got it.
There's not much left of what I paid so very much for  *shh*

At the moment its more sleeping beauty  *doh*  *spider*

Need to do something about that  *work*
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #85 on: 25.08. 2016 01:52 »
finally ticked off enough outstanding tasks on the SR that I could give it a kicking.
Was very nice to hear it bark into life sounding very sharp.

yes an oil return issue and the return line leaks, will investigate
Curse a small dark garage.

The new corks in the old taps didnt leak (did I just jinx them)
It certainly went walkies on the main stand.
Too wet to take it further today.

The 10TT9 needs a fettle, not the easiest to start but very satisfying to hear and the smell of castor   *dribble*
Still quite a few obstacles to being properly on the road as it currently has no papers so will need vic'ing and vin'ing and some extensive paperwork  *contract* as well as various loose ends wrapping up.

MikeB's recent SR build can take some credit for giving me some motivation.
My triples solenoid has now stuck,so I'm ignoring it for the time being and giving my pre units the priority.
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #86 on: 26.08. 2016 01:44 »
Dug out some stronger glasses so I could see what was going on and found the nut retaining the rocker feed was too thick and preventing the oil return taper pulling tight.
Found a thinner nut and my leak vanished and my oil return started feeding nicely.
a fiddle with the throttle cable (no idle screw on the TT) and the pilot adjuster gave me a rock solid 1000rpm idle which I was stoked with until I realised moving the handlebars gave me a higher idle or stalled it, so have backed it back off to a dead mans throttle.
So looking very positive. As I'm running a bender discard ignition (an electronic BT-H) I have two micro coils that are cluttering up the battery bay as is the DVR2 regulator (as there's an oil filter in the tool box) , so may need to rearrange to tidy up this.
At this point I'm sticking with the stock dynamo at 6 volts (which may or may not work) and will stick a lithium ion 6v battery probably on its side which can also double up as the battery for the B33 inside an old 6v case (won't bother with the 6v outer case on the A10)
I took a very short and quite rubbish video of it running which I'll try and add shortly
https://youtu.be/1J2R2pnP60Q
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Online mikeb

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #87 on: 26.08. 2016 03:41 »
that video is definitely a running a10 Tim, well done *ex* *ex*
how about a road test (sure you've got some spare plates somewhere  ;))
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'61 Super Rocket  - '47 B33 -  '21 Triumph Speed Triple RS

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #88 on: 26.08. 2016 05:59 »
Have just got back from picking up a battery for it.
Need to make up a tank brace for the front.
a wee bit of wiring to do, so tank back off. Getting very close.
I ran it up to 35/40 mph on the main stand so its been through the gears and clutch and brakes doing something, albeit standing still.
Does need new rear shoes but that can wait.
Need to ponder a rear vision mirror too.
 *wink2*
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Rusty
« Reply #89 on: 29.08. 2016 06:12 »
that video is definitely a running a10 Tim, well done *ex* *ex*
how about a road test (sure you've got some spare plates somewhere  ;))

It has had a wee run now, still has a to do list before its road legal, so probably another month or two in the pipeline.
But it certainly looks the part at 10 paces and has wet my appetite  *dribble*
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand