wassell regulator

[bikerjohndavies]

Just had a response from Wassell. They say that the positive earth regulators will fit straight on but the negative earth ones require the wires inside the dynamo to be changed around. I'm going to exchange for a positive earth one and either change the polarity of the 49 A7 or use the mechanical box of my postive earth Norton and put the electronic one on that. Don't want to be messing with the dynamo.

[warmshed]

The DVR2 can be used without modifying the dynamo with either the positive or negative options, all you need to do is polarise it.
Also read this thread http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=5281.0

[S.R.McFarlane]

Hi All

I have looked into all the available regulators and the

DVR2 IS THE BEST AVALABLE BY A LONG WAY

It has the best low speed charging I have ever seen with 12 volts

The worst ones I have seen are the AO services ones; they actually DISCHARGE  the battery if the revs fall below about 1800 RPM
And at tick over discharge the battery at 2 amps!!!! (12V)

I have taken 5 of these off bikes and fitted the DVR2 and everyone is amazed at how
well they work.

I have these units in my workshop and I won?t even give them away for free

Don?t bother with any other than the DVR2

Get them from dynamo regulators LTD

S. R. McFarlane

[warmshed]

Yes quite agree with you about the DVR2, mistakenly put Vreg2, I get the names mixed up. Have changed my previous post so as not to mislead people.

[A10Boy]

I found that the Vreg wont charge from a low battery condition [say 2-3 volts]. I'm sure it actually discharged my battery when left standing and then wouldn't kick back into life. Changed to a DVR2 and all is well.

[bsa-bill]

Last couple of  I went to my bike with the V-Reg the battery was down a bit, (it's not getting much action at the moment due to prolonged Kitchen refurb), -  reckon from what you chaps are saying I should keep an I on the battery voltage every couple of days , see whats going on

[metalflake11]

I have to say, anything with a Wassel connection gets nowhere near my bikes. From failed electrics to freshly built engines siezing, check for Wassel parts............Rubbish, and not even cheap!

[chaz]

as a trade dealer with a wassells account I will say Ive had no problems from them for Norton, Triumphs, BSA's and Ariels that Ive needed, along with spurious other general parts.

As an insight, Ive enquired through quite a few other suppliers on various occasions Norton cables, Triumph engine and cycle parts, TriCor, Burton to name two that when Wassells have run out it seems that the others have too. on enquiry from the others I am told that they also get their parts from Wassells. Wassells are the biggest buyer and have the buying power to order quantities at he best price. What you might get from others are Wassell products   rebadged or re packaged. Recently I looked around for a Triumph part. no one had it in stock. TriCor said they would have one in on Monday as the were collecting from their supplier. when it arrived on the friday it had been despatched on thursday having been collected and then rebagged with thier labels. When I was supplied with an incorrect cable from Wassells (according to my customer) I rng around and when I questioned lengths and fittings with the others I said thats the same as Wassells, they said thats because they get theirs from them!!
As for Ariels, if Bruce Longman or John Budgen dont have the parts they source theirs from Draganfly, so might as well go straight there.  you have to remember there isnt as big a British bike industry as there used to be so buying power has to be combined.

[morris]

I recently bought a saddle from Wassel. I find it good quality, well finished.

Anybody got any experience with Boyer Bransden regulators?
I recently fitted one, and quit happy with it.
About a week ago I forgot to turn the headlights off, so the next day only had 0.2v left in the 6v battery.
I took it for a drive, and after 500 yards had enough power for the lights to turn on.
When returning after 1/2 hour the battery was back on full power.
The ammeter goes slightly in minus at tickover, but when revving it shows a healthy +4

The manufacturer claims it will even work without a battery, only the lights will go dim at tickover. Didn't try it though.

[jfligg]

There was a similar post on the AJS site acouple of weeks ago....

Assuming +ve earth

black to battery -ve (via ammeter if fitted)
red to earth and battery +ve
green to 'F' on dynamo
yellow to 'D' on dynamo.

make sure your battery has good earth
 

I am a little confused on these hook up instructions.  How does the red wire get hooked to battery positive and a ground.  Should I split the red wire and make both connections.  Thanks Jeff

[duTch]

 Hiya Jeff, I assume that's your question in the bottom of the 'quote'....

  Maybe I'm dyslexic, but it seems self explanatory, read it again...(+ve earth/ground), that's the RED wire that normally on a (-ve) earth would be black, and vice versa for the other terminal....
 
 Think of the "F,A,D,E' terminals on your mechanical reg and should be straight forward....?
 It's a bit like you need to think in dyslexic...

 (wiring diagram to/from amp gauge I have says purple 'A' reg. to 'A - ', and brown 'A+' to battery..)

[jfligg]

Hi Dutch
 My question is should the red wire go to the battery  positive  or grounded to the frame, or both.  Sorry if I am too daft to figure this out.  But, I wired up a wassell regulator and the amp meter is showing a total loss.  Jeff

[trevinoz]

Hi Jeff,
                   If you have a positive earth system, your battery + should already be connected to the frame and you only have to connect the wire from the regulator to a point on the frame.

Trev.

[jfligg]

Thanks Trev

[morris]

Some regulators are toast if being run without earth. Best would be to split right after the regulator with one wire going to the frame an another to battery +