kick start spring replacement

[Gonemad]

Hello everybody.  As my first attempt on this site I tried to find how to replace a broken kick start spring. I typed on the 'search' "kick start spring replacement", "A10 pre unit kick start spring replacement" and one or two other lines, without success.
I am certain that this matter has been asked and replied to many times but.... could somebody point me in the right direction to find out how to do it.
I have recently purchased a really beautiful Rocket Gold Star replica, based upon a Super Rocket.  Unfortunately the rebuild was completed about eight years ago and the bike has stood unused since.  The engine number is DA10R 928 HC.  I cannot find any reference to the letters HC which I assume stands for High Compression.  Any ideas?
Further, the bike will not start having absoluteley no spark at either plug.  Hence the broken kick start spring.  One of the receipts that came with the bike indicates that the Magneto was re-built at the time of the RGS conversion.  This leads me to believe that the Magneto points may have corroded while the bike was, very well, dry stored.  Once I have the kick start spring repaired I will try to clean these with some fine wet and dry paper but if this fails, does a condenser fail with lack of use?

[a10 gf]

Hello & welcome.

Some inner\outer gearbox cover pictures here http://www.a7a10.net/gearbox1.htm (showing what awaits you, and with pic of a dead return spring!). Fitting new spring was not difficult, just get a new spring + cover gasket, dismantle and you'll figure out how to do it.

[Gonemad]

Thank you.  That was very quick.  Interestingly, I spent 26 years in Oslo and 3 in Stavanger.  Funny that I should get a reply from Norway... thank you again. 
I will take the cover off and see what there is to be seen and order the new spring and gasket after that.
Med vennlig hilsen.

[Beezageezauk]

Don't remove the kickstart or gear lever. 

The outer gearbox cover comes off with them both in place.

Also, when the new spring is fitted you can use the clutch arm to rest the kickstarter on and retain the spring tension as you are refitting the outer cover.

Beezageezauk.

[Gonemad]

Thank you Beezageezauk.  A good tip regarding the kickstart and gear lever, also the clutch arm to keep the spring tensioned.  I had a very quick look this evening at the bike and seeing the clutch arm in place decided to try the forum for help first.  What do you use on the gasket to keep the gearbox drip free? 
Clearly I need a workshop manual.  Any recommendations here? Are the real ones available somewhere?
When I cleared my parent?s house I found my old Shooting Star, BSA Twins, workshop manual in my dad?s shed.  It was a little mildewed and, well... I was never going to have a bike again was I....  So I threw it away. Arrrrgh.

[RichardL]

Gonemad,

If you don't mind saying, where are you located? Knowing would help with regards to product recomendations, such as gasket sealer. Also, you never know if someone is down the road from you who might help.  Until I checked Google, I thought "Med vennlig hilsen" might be your name.

Med vennlig hilsen,

Richard L.

[a10 gf]

see 'Rebuilding, locking the kick with the clutchlever...' from link above, picture available.

So you were here for 29 years?! Work + family? btw, now you are in ?? maybe update the profile ref. the signed Registration Agreement

update your profile with a few words about bike and location

;O)

ps, as I was typing, Richard got there before me regarding location!

Books (see http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,348.0.html ) are available from ebay and parts dealers.

[Beezageezauk]

Gonemad,

Try to retain the original gasket.  Sometimes....only sometimes....you can replace the outer cover to find the gear selection slightly stiff.  The thickness of the gasket can cause this to happen.

Now I know a lot of guys on this forum will cringe when I admit to rarely using gaskets.  The inner and outer gearbox cover gaskets are my exception to the rule.  I normally use clear "Instant Gasket".  It comes in a tube in various colours.  It's a type of silicone sealant that has been developed for the automotive industry.  Used sparing I've never had a problem with it but I'm extra careful using it close to oilways.  I also use this as a gasket glue on traditional gaskets.  There now... I've admitted it and I'm preparing myself for the flack!!

Manuals are readily available in both paper and cd format.  You could check them out on evilbay.

Beezageezauk.

[Gonemad]

I'm learning all the time here. For example, I typed out a reply only to learn that I had been timed out.... However, in the meantime Beezageezauk posted with the tip regarding re-use of the old gasket if possible.  That really is a good tip because I simply would never have thought that the gasket thickness could affect the gear selection.  This is why a good Forum like this is of such value.

I was in Norway working within the oil and gas industry, what else, and have now retired to Norwich, Norfolk.  I bought the RGS replica from a chum in Norway who had the bike in England and is just about to retire to Spain.  Hence the bike's lack of use.
Any tips for good local suppliers would be welcolme.

I will look into updating my profile, perhaps with a picture of the bike as so many others do. 

I will also look on E-Bay for a manual.  I have just spent an absolute fortune on a very good condition original RGS Owners Handbook from E-bay.  Hence, Gonemad as one of my chums put it...

Med vennlig hilsen, means, With friendly greetings.  Sorry about that.  Just a bit of fun, one 'Norwegian' to another.

I will get back to you once the spring is in place, with the original gasket, because I just might be needing help to get the bike started.  See the first posting.
I really do want to do this myself to avoid my usual solving of problems system of simply throwing money at them.

Med vennlig hilsen, OK that's the last time...

Angus, who really has Gonemad.

[a10 gf]

I appreciated the vennlig hilsen. & spending fortunes on ebay, I know about that too!

Maybe of help, heat up the case before trying to split = maybe a better chance of keeping the gasket in one piece (at least I believe so) & I use a cutter blade, keeping it very straight & gently tapping it in a little at different locations around a case to help the initial split, then looking carefully for where a gasket (if to be reused) sticks and using the same blade to 'help' loosening the gasket to avoid tearing it up. And if the gasket is to be replaced, the same blade is used to gently cut off old gasket remnants.

[bsa-bill]

Maybe of help, heat up the case before trying to split

I agree with your blade method A10gf also although I've never tried this but it has sprung into my imagination from somewhere a gentle squeeze on the clutch lever might just start the parting process

[a10 gf]

I started using the blade + light tapping 'technique' for splitting anything that's tightly stuck together after seeing damage done with screwdriver & hammer etc, no wonder so many old engines leaks oil, mating surfaces having been mutilated and scarred beyond what any gasket could possibly mend.

(edit, have of course sometimes also used a rubber hammer or piece of wood to split stuff by gently tapping around it)

Regarding the kick spring I replaced once upon a time, the old one was brittle like uncooked spaghetti.

[Beezageezauk]

Hi again Angus,

Another invaluable source of information would be the BSA Owners Club.  This can be particularly beneficial if you have a branch close to your home and you don't have to travel too far.  Well, you're in luck.  There is a branch on your doorstep.

Pop over to the Kings Head in Blofield on either the 1st. or 3rd. Tuesday of the month and you will find a very knowlegable group who will be keen to help you out.  In particular ask for Gary, Robert, Ronny or Tony for introductions and tell them that you've been in touch with Ray from Cleveland.

There will obviously be others there but I meet up with those I mentioned quite regularly.  They really are great guys.

Hey...I've just found their website.  Go to www.norfolkbeezas.co.uk for more information.

Good luck and enjoy your bike to the full.

Beezageezauk.

[Gonemad]

Thank you for that Ray.  Really good of you. I will be able to get over to Blofield on Tuesday 4th October and will meet the lads you mention, passing on your good regards at the same time of course.
The gearbox cover will come off tomorrow and I have a blade ready for the job.  I will keep you informed.
It will be a while before the bike is running of course.  Even after it starts I will have to re-commission it as it has been standing for eight years.  That means a change of all the oils, change both the tires for new ones - plenty of tread but eight years old, check the chain tensions, and so on.  When the bike was rebuilt it was fitted with new mudguards that are the correct shape for the RGS but, probably, of Indian manufacture. Even though the bike has only been standing in a dry garage the chrome has reacted with the steel below and bubbled.  I will remove the guards and have them properly rechromed with a copper base during the winter months.  The chain guard is painted black and that should be chrome too, so that will also be done at the same time. When I bought the bike from my chum he fitted a new battery, but the wrong way around, negative to earth.  This did the battery no good at all and probably fried the after market electronic constant voltage regulator.  I now have a new battery, again, and will purchase a new constant voltage regulator this week.
Then, one sunny day next spring........
Very best regards,
Angus

[bsa-bill]

Angus
put the old battery on charge (the correct way around) it could well recover, with a bit of luck it maybe has reversed polarity and could be reversed back, not guaranteed but worth a shot