Author Topic: New member 1948 A7  (Read 5201 times)

Offline stephenrc45

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New member 1948 A7
« on: 18.02. 2011 10:13 »
Hello Everyone.

I'm new to the forum and new to BSA twins really. I did once have a plunger A10 but never really did much to it.

Anyway when my grandfather passed away I was left a number of bikes. One of these being what I think is a 1948 ridgid A7. Frame number YA7-28** and engine also YA7. The bike was fully stipped down and looks more like a basketcase. I've tried to work out what I have but not knowing the BSA twins very well its not easy. I do have a BSA parts book which I've tried to use to work out what bits are what.

What I have found within the piles of B31 etc parts are.

Frame and forks, front brake, engine (less clutch), gear box, oil tank, two very tatty mudguards (but the do have the brackets) and footrests/brake lever. The best bit being a NOS petrol tank in red and chrome.

I have a number of crinkle hubs but have no idea how to tell a later crinkle hub from the type used on the A7. Is there any difference and if there is can anyone tell me what it is?

I would seem to me missing all the rear brake parts, spindles etc, air box, front engine plates, carb, magneto, wire harness etc.

Do you think I will be able to find the parts needed to restore this bike or am I better selling it to someone who can use it to go along with another project?

I'm happy to restore things andit wont be the first BSA I've done but all my experiance is with the alloy engined B32's and B34's not the twin.

Any help, advice or wisdom is appreciated.

Stephen

Offline Goldy

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #1 on: 18.02. 2011 13:24 »
Hi Stephen and welcome. I dont know the answer to all the questions but the answer is yes you will be able to find the necessary parts. There are still parts to be found after all these years at Autojumbles and E bay. Most (if not all parts) are now being manufactured again now. Apparently it,s possible to build a machine from new. Centre stands became rare but are being made again.
You will find lots of advice here. All the best.
56 A10 Golden Flash - Restore, ride, relive.                                          
56 C12 BSA project ongoing

Offline stephenrc45

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #2 on: 18.02. 2011 14:16 »
Thank you.

I would like to rebuild it. I have the urge some something with interchangeable wheels after reading into the bikes alittle more.

The frame and forks look almost untouched and stock, the center stand is there and looks to of not seen much use either.

There are some stunning examples on the site of what it should look like. I just want to work out how much I need to find. Digging around this morning I found another oil tank which I think is right for a rigid but still no idea about wheels.

Can you get reproduction mudguards for these now? What remains of the mudguards for mine would show it had a hinged rear one but it seems most say it sould be solid?

Offline Beezageezauk

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #3 on: 18.02. 2011 19:22 »
Hi Stephen and welcome to the forum from me.

I suspect you have the basis of a Longstroke A7 which looks very similar to the later A7 or A10 but has many differences.  Engine parts in particular are totally different so if you are searching for bits make sure you mention that this is the type of bike they are for.

It would also be beneficial for you to advise us where you are from as there may be a forum member living close to you who could help you with advice or information.  There are also guys on this forum with the same model who can offer their advice but, for a newby, it's always good to have someone to talk to.

If you are seriously considering rebuilding the bike the first thing I suggest you get is a copy of the parts book and service sheets.  These would be invaluable to you.

All the best with it.

Beezageezauk. 


Offline stephenrc45

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #4 on: 18.02. 2011 19:39 »
Hello,

I updated my profile but it doesn't seem to show it on the forum. Anyway I'm in Cornwall, England, nice and quiet down here.

I already have a genuine BSA 1947 parts manual but no service sheets. This is what I have been trying to use to find what bits I'm missing.

I'm very close to finishing a 1950 ZB34 at the moment and thought I would enjoy doing this A7 next as long as the parts aren't impossible to find. From what I'm told it should be do-able. I really like the look of the bike and it will keep me out of the house for a good few evenings.

I have a set of NOS pistons and valves plus some rods so with a bit of work I think the engine will go ok as long as I can find the clutch and primary parts needed.

I will try and take some pictures so you can all laugh.

Cheers

Offline LJ.

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #5 on: 18.02. 2011 19:42 »
Hi Steve, good to have you aboard here! Long stroke parts are available and often come up on ebay for suprisingly little money and I can't quite understand this as they are not so common as the later A7s. I've seen barrels unsold for under £50. The hardest part to get is the camshaft but I suppose one could be made up. Clutch parts are easy to come by as they are the same as later models. Good luck with your project! LJ.
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Offline stephenrc45

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #6 on: 18.02. 2011 20:01 »
Fantastic! About the clutch parts anyway. I'll check my camshaft. The bottom end of the engine is assembled so I will split it and have a look.

I'm not a member of the BSA owners club. If I joined do you know if they have any records on these bikes? Such as build dates matching numbers etc and colours? I don't mind if the engine and frame didnt start life together but it would be nice to know and what colour it was when new.

Offline LJ.

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #7 on: 18.02. 2011 20:09 »
Joining the BSAOC is a good idea and better if you can get to a local branch meeting. You can apply for a machine dating certificate from Steve Foden the librarian who handles this job. The certificate should give the information you want but not always. Worth applying for as it's only a tenner.

http://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/Register_Date.html
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Offline A7Paul

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #8 on: 18.02. 2011 22:18 »
Hi Stephen,
good to see another '48 A7 coming together!  I have one that runs well and have a pic on my profile.  The air box is very slim and sits between the battery and the oil tank, you might have missed it!
Let me know if I can help, although I live near Shrewsbury so cant just pop down and help.  Have several sets of workshop service sheets and could let you have a set for a nominal cost.
All the best,
Paul

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #9 on: 18.02. 2011 22:26 »
Hi Stephen,
Welcome to the twin fraternity  *smile*
You mentioned you are nearing completion on a ZB 34?
I have been getting this one sorted out for a friend of mine,
This one came with rearsets and short brake pedal from the factory, The frame has extra lugs, I've not come across this before (or not noticed *conf*)
Luckily all the extra kit including the racing carb came with the bike, pity in my opinion that the original mudguards were removed at some time, I now have a late goldie one for the front
Regards
John O R
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline stephenrc45

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #10 on: 18.02. 2011 22:32 »
Thanks very much.

I will have another look. Like I said I will take some pictures of how it is now so you can all laugh and say thats not off an A7 at all!

The only picture I have of the air box is from the parts manual and I can't see anything like that but if its smaller than I'm expecting I might well of missed it.

I started to pull the bottom end apart this evening even though I don't have room for two projects on the go at the same time. So far all I've found thats a bit naughty is the oil pump is seized solid. The mains and big ends feel ok so there might not be any damage to them and just need replacing.

Cant look at the camshaft yet but it rotates freely and I cant feel any roughness though the cam followers so finger crossed.

Offline stephenrc45

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #11 on: 18.02. 2011 22:37 »
Nice ZB34GS!

All the Goldstar plunger frames came with the extra lugs for rear sets. Though you don't tend to notice them. Mine isn't a ZB34GS rather a ZB34A, the competition version. It has been upgraded with a Goldstar crank and  clubman racing large port head. Because its not a GS though it doesn't have the lug for the rear sets or the locking fuel cap and oil tank.

Offline terryk

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #12 on: 19.02. 2011 16:01 »
Hi Stephen I also have 1948 A7s, I have two of them and heaps of parts for them. That oil pump is a bit tricky to take off. Undo the oil pump nuts and then undo and remove the main shaft spiral nut with the oil pump at the same time. I hope that helps.
cheers Terry Australia
1950-53 A10 rigid/plungers, 1958-61 A10 super rockets, 1947-50 A7 longstrokes, 1949 Star twin,
1951-54 A7 plungers, 1940s M21, WDM20s,
1948-50s B33s rigid/plunger/swingarm, 1948-50s b31s rigid/plunger/swingarm

Offline stephenrc45

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #13 on: 19.02. 2011 18:08 »
Hello,

I manged to get the pump off last night but internally the pump is seized. You can't rotate its internals even now its out of the motor. I will pull it apart and see whats go on. I'm sure it cant be that different to the B range BSA's.

It's great to see that there are so many out there with the rigid A7. I'm really getting into them.

Offline trevinoz

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Re: New member 1948 A7
« Reply #14 on: 19.02. 2011 20:14 »
Stephen,
                  Your pump is probably OK. If you are trying to rotate it by attempting to turn the drive shaft it is likely that is just gummed up.
Some of us here spend a lot of time assembling the pumps so that they turn freely by hand.
I usually don't. I assemble without the drive shaft , after ensuring that the pump will rotate, and drive the pump with a drill and adapter in a container of diesel or similar.
You will be able to see if the pump works or not.
With the pump apart, check that there is not excessive clearance between the gears and housings.
I have found that is rare to get a pump to turn freely by hand.
  Trev.