Tank interior rust removal

[redbeeza]

Do any of you guys have a tried and tested method of cleaning the interior of a fuel tank?  I've got one of the Indian made replicas that has stood for a few months and it has light, dusty surface rust on the interior.  I'd like to clean it up before fitting it/running fuel through it.

By the way, for any of you contemplating buying one of these repro tanks, I have mixed feelings about the things.  The chrome seems good and it is dent free (the main reasons for wanting to replace the tank) but it is nowhere near the same shape and dimensions of an original tank when you have the two side by side.  The repro tank is very noticably bigger: I would say an inch longer and an inch taller in profile.  It has a rounder shape.  I haven't tried fitting it yet but I expect there will be problems.  No doubt there are several manufacturies and the types will differ a bit, but I spent a lot of time looking at these repro tanks and they all seemed pretty similar.

[lawnmowerman]

Hi Redbeeza

You will probably find that when you fit the tank, if it is anything like my Indian tank, the standard tank support strap will be too short and you will have to make one up. Mine had a load of petseal in it and chunks have been coming out every time I have the tank off and flush it. Fortunately it has not started to leak yet.
Rust in the tank is a real problem as the ethanol in the modern rubbish sold as petrol attracts and holds water which then condenses out and rusts the tank. There are some rustproofing products available.

Jim

[wackyone]

Vinegar and a some salt mixed in ! works quick, 24hrs and you will strip the insides 
I didn't believe it until I tried either    Give it a go, 13 pence bottles from tesco's basic range and some table salt from the kitchen ! Approx £0.59 pence per litre 

[wackyone]

ps, You will never put vinegar on your chips again when you see how it works

[groily]

Dunno about the salt 'n vinegar thing, but why not?! Good flush afterwards and away you go!
Anyway, on the Indian tanks, I bought one a year ago odd (for my B31) and yup, there are some shape questions someone who knows more than me might ask. But, for an everyday bike, for an everyday price, I was pleased. Chrome not the thickest you'll ever see, but the centre hole was in the right place, the strap studs were BSC and the fuel tap threads were correct, the badges went straight on in what looked like roughly the right place - and it was clean as a whistle. Survived at least half a winter and hasn't even gone rusty yet. I'd have said mine was a tad shorter than the one it replaced, but I couldn't s

[groily]

funny things PCs, got a bit ahead of itself.
. . .ay what the 'original' one really was either to be honest. Long and short of it is I'm quite happy with what I've got, what it cost and how quickly I got it. Looks quite OK to me, doesn't leak like the old one, and problem solved. Might not suit a concours job, obviously, but it's horses for courses and you pays your money . . . .

[Goldy]

To clean the inside of the tank, plug the tap holes and put a handfull of nuts and bolts inside with a pint or so of white spirit. Shake the tank giving circular and forward and backwards motion, upright and upside down. Leave it to soak for a while and then do it again. Empty the bolts and rinse out.
My Indian tank is about 2 years old, the chrome is good and I would say its good value for money.

[redbeeza]

Thank you for the advice and comments guys.  I'm going to run the bike with the old dented tank for a while until I get used to riding it, then have a go at fitting the repro one.

I would agree that for the price the repro tank looks good.  The bolt hole looks like it's in the right place.  In fact the bolt hole in the original tank is a bit off centre!  I think the strap studs must be BSC as well, cycle nuts won't fit and nor will metric.  I did need to saw a bit off the metalwork at the filler cap neck to get the cap to fit, it looked like it hadn't been ground to shape, I used the old tank as a guide.

BTW after the ride out to the MOT station the alloy (and some of the chrome) has taken a hammering.  We'd had a few downpours during the mild spell after the big freeze which I thought might have rid the roads of the salt.  No chance, the header pipe finned collars were encrusted with corrosion after a day.  I don't have a pressure washer (or a hose pipe) so gave the bike a good manual wash 'n' rinse and drip dry.

[Triton Thrasher]

I leave it rusty and use an inline filter and no gauze on the tap.

[Stu55Flash]

There was a method in one of the bike mags. It used electrolysis, using old fashioned washing soda, a battery charger and a bolster chisel as the anode. Never tried it but washing soda cristals are avialble from Wilkos in the UK for less than a £1.

Washing soda is great for flushing out your coolant system on you classic car also. I used it on the tractor -  much better than the relatively expensive rad flush.   So get some in quick before it sells out!

Stu

[Goldseeker]

Just thinking if the old Coca Cola trick would work, Ive used it to free-up rusted nuts. 

[Goldy]

Redbeeza. I think that you will find that the studs on the indian tank are UNF.

[mike667]

i've had lots of experience removing rust - for minimal rust vinegar (acetic acid) will work well - for more substantial rust i typically use either phosphoric acid or muric acid ( hydrochloric acid) - the hydocloris works very well and is quick - you can get muric acid at most pool cleaning supplly places or hardware store - my favorite clearer is "the works" toilet clearer available at most hardware stores and big dept stores- it has hydrochloric acid in it. best way is remove tank, cover in saran wrap to avoid damage to paint through either spill or you whacking it in something  - plug tap holes w/ rubber stoppers -  add clearer - for acid types 1-2 hrs all thats needed - vinegar, other stuff (coke etc) 24h min. Cover gas hole w/ wrap and put cap on swirll tank gentle every few minutes (with acids) - after time wash tank w/ water - if storing tank squirt wd-40 in it to prevent flash rusting and mix around- if not refuel asap.  best way to prevent future rust - i add a teaspoon or two of 2 stroke oil to tank of gas (has rust inhibitors) - also good trick is throw a magenet in there to catch rust particles/flakes that may build up and come off and plug fuel taps
m

[Alan @Ncl]

I too had A10 tank problems recently after having, lamentably, left it standing in the back of the garage for 15 years, half full with fuel (you might well say I deserved nothing less). First hint of trouble was when I struggled to get the cap off.  Then on looking inside, I found horrible thickish brown liquid that smelt vile.  On emptying, found to my horror lots of what looked like rust.  At this stage I thought I was doomed but since it was not leaking, persevered with stone chippings and detergent (wish I had looked at this forum earlier but I am a relative newcomer).  Eventually removed vast quantities of this stuff (see pic attached which is only a fraction of what came out) so I concluded it must be mainly degraded fuel, rather than rust, as if it was rust, I think the tank would have been like a sieve by now.  The tank seems relatively OK after this and is back on with fuel in.  I am still mystified as to what has been going on here so any comments would be very welcome.

[chaterlea25]

Bran flakes ???? ???? ???? ???? ???? ????