Home-made tools

[orabanda]

A friend in his eighties rang recently and offered me a collection of whitworth bolts and nuts he had accumulated over a lifetime of riding and maintaining (british) motorcycles.

He was the frailest I have seen him, and had dispersed all of his bikes except two; one of which was the plunger Gold Star which he proudly started.

He also gave me this little funnel he probably made in 1950; very ingenious - made filling the BSA gearbox a breeze!

I hope to be using it for the next 25 years or so, but will make sure I pass it on to the next generation when the time comes.

Here's to you, Mr Crocker!

[Topdad]

What a really useful funnel ,he must have been ***** off spilling oil as we all do with other methods .Reminds me of a good  friend and neighbour who always nattered to me about my A10 as he'd had one back in his day , he gave me a tuneup  meter for checking fuel mixture ,after a " bit of a tidy up" then next week a few  whitworth spanners and finally two brand new old stock valve sealers made in stainless ,he'd had 'em for yrs . Turned out He'd been diagnosed with cancer caused by asbestos and just wanted something of his to remain in use after he was gone ,so his wife told me after He'd died .I still use the tune up and won't go anywhere without the valve caps fitted , (thank you Jack) , so keep an eye on your mate Richard ,you never know , cheers Bob.

[orabanda]

20 years ago I gave him a couple of frames from 1920's Indian Scout; I didn't ask for any payment.
This is the Karma coming through!

[Greybeard]

What a really useful funnel ,he must have been ***** off spilling oil as we all do with other methods.

I use a plastic bottle of gearbox oil that has a handy tube.

finally two brand new old stock valve sealers

Do mean tyre/tire valves?

[RogerSB]

but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket.

Here's mine - it cost 2 pence - so I splashed out and got 3, 1 in the shed, 1 in the garage, 1 in my pocket

[RoyC]

but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket.

Here's mine - it cost 2 pence - so I splashed out and got 3, 1 in the shed, 1 in the garage, 1 in my pocket

and if it slips, there goes your paint.

[RogerSB]

but a good tool to open and, particularly, close the toolbox seemed a burden to put in the pocket.

Here's mine - it cost 2 pence - so I splashed out and got 3, 1 in the shed, 1 in the garage, 1 in my pocket

and if it slips, there goes your paint.

I dare it to slip, it'll get a good Kicking!

[tlmark]

Not exactly homemade, well not by me anyway. I got this yesterday for pulling the crankshaft pinion off.

and it works brilliantly here is the link.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bsa-twins-A7-10-crank-pinion-puller/263428014723?hash=item3d55888283:g:T1cAAOSw0exaAC-T


oh yeah it only works on 67/339  that's the one with the machined flats on it.

[RichardL]

My new timing stick. Graticule created and printed using AutoCad (1/32" incements) glued to 3/16" D. aluminum tube and covered with clear packing tape. A screw inserted on the right (top) end makes it heavy enough. Ball bearing on the left (bottom) end makes it ride properly on top of the piston. BTW, used many times (before the old graticule wore off) without losing the ball.

Richard L.

[muskrat]

G'day Richard.
Wouldn't a pushrod do?
This is my timing tool. (think I've mentioned it before) Smash the porcelain out of an old plug and tap the body 3/8 cyc. Get the piston to the desired height using verniers down the plug hole. Insert plug into head then screw a 3/8 cyc stud in (with red loctite) till it just touches the piston. Lower piston and remove plug. Once loctite has set you have a tool to set timing the same every time.
Also used to find TDC in conjunction with a degree wheel on the crank. Turn crank so piston is down the bore. Insert plug and turn crank till piston just touches the plug. Mark degree wheel then turn the crank back till it touches again and mark. Exactly half way between the marks is TDC.
Cheers

[RichardL]

Well, I showed it without the guide/indicator (now pictured with the magnet that holds it to a head bolt).  I'm a little uncomfortable with bumping the piston up against a stop. Not sure I could do it gently enough when turning over the engine with the rear wheel.  I think of the stick as a vernier that moves with the piston and is accurate to about 1/64". I don't have a timing disk, but even if I did, I'd rather not open the primary just to set timing. It's bad enough that the timing cover has to come off. (Insert Orabanda's picture of magneto flange slots here.) I suppose you don't like to remove the timing cover either, which, I also suppose, is why you made the device. I have kinda settled on 11/32" as the target, but like the idea of trying other values if I want. That would be a bit tricky with red Loctite (unless you made a set, of course).

This should, appropriately, be followed by "I'm probably wrong."

Richard L.

[muskrat]

G'day Richard.

I'm a little uncomfortable with bumping the piston up against a stop. Not sure I could do it gently enough when turning over the engine with the rear wheel.

I know what you mean mate. 99% of the time I have one or both covers off.
Cheers

[Greybeard]

Plugs out, bike in fourth, turn back wheel, engine turns slowly.

[RichardL]

It's still a bump, but suppose one would soon get the feel. Still, not giving up my timing stick.

Richard L.

[muskrat]

Good onya mate. We all have our favorite way of doing things. I learnt the hard way, the next model will have a nylon stud  .
Cheers