Touchy Feely

[chaterlea25]

Cush drive assembly, one piece added at the time
The photos show that there is almost the full depth of thread for the nut
I omitted the lockwasher that fits between the nut and sleeve, I dont fit this preffering a couple of drops of threadlock instead

Awaiting the next installment
John O R

[trevinoz]

I measured three spacer plates I have and they are all the same. Steel 0.095" thick, probably the old 12 gauge.
Closest modern equivalent here is 2.5mm.
                                                           Trev.

[Mosin]

I read this with some excitement as it all sounded perfectly plausable. Well, I've finally got the kids bathed and into bed and whipped off the primary chain and cush drive to see what I could see. The findings are in my photos.

The only thing that I did notice was that my main bearing does not look even remotely the same as John's, but other than that everything seems to be pretty much as it should be.

Grrr.

[Mosin]

a few more pics...

[RichardL]

Simon,

OK, so my guess was wrong about having the wrong Cush Drive Bearing (I don't know why they call it this, to me it would be more like "cush sprocket carrier sleeve"). I'm going to make new some new comments here. I suppose and hope John or others will confirm or correct what this looks like to me.

First, refresh my memory, have you had the entire bottom end appart since acquiring the bike?  It looks to me that your Cush Drive Distance Piece, that fits inside the seal, is in place and rusted to the crankshaft. It also looks like it is not as long as John's, which protrudes past the seal. In John's case, he apparently did not need any additional shims to align the sprokets. In your case, it appears you are adding a whole second Cush Drive Distance Piece to align the sprockets. It makes me wonder if there is not something going on with the clutch that is requiring you space out the Cush Drive Bearing so far. The shims meant for this purpose are 0.030" and less.

Anxious to know what you and others think about this.

Richard L.

[Mosin]

Richard,

I was just starting to draw the same conclusions myself. The engine has recently been completely rebuilt with a needle roller bearing conversion, so it is unlikely that anything is siezed or rusted. I think that the next task has to be taking off the clutch... again... and trying to work out if I should be doing anything to make it sit a bit further back on the gearbox mainshaft.

Cheers,

Simon

[RichardL]

Well, maybe wait for additional oppinions. Remember, I'm more student than teacher.

Richard L.

[bsa-bill]

This might be helpful if you have a large variation in distance from the clutch sprocket to the inner primary chain case.
Remembering that there will be some variation between bikes.

Pictures could be sharper but you can read the distance in CM

[bsa-bill]

And at the front sprocket

[chaterlea25]

Hi Simon,
In my photos the crankcase oil seal is not yet fitted, when this is done it will look very like your first pic!!
The seal runs on the outer of the crank spacer!
I now believe that your crank spacer has been in place all along???? (we did not have photos before?)
And the source of your problems is (was ) that you added a second one, all be it a bit thinner??
If you look at my pics again you will see that the spacer comes just proud of the crankcase face, this is correct!
I think you will have to go back and look at the clutch which is the item that has been changed from before the "blow up"
Check how far the centre adaptor fits onto the gearbox mainshaft
some more photos will help!!

Regards
John O R

[Mosin]

Here are some more pics taken tonight. As you can see my gearbox sprocket is sitting a good 5mm further out than Bill's which would explain a lot. I then removed the clutch and even the primary inner but the clutch centre does not seem to go any further on than it is doing. I even tried putting a bit of copper grease on the shaft and gently trying to drift it on using an appropriately sized socket and a rubber mallet, but it does not want to go any further at all.

Avid fans of my tales of woe will remember that I had to cut off the previous clutch centre with a dremel because it was so tightly siezed to the gearbox shaft (if you missed that thrilling installment, you can read all about it here: http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,2263.msg15555.html#msg15555 )

Having done a bit of measuring, there does not seem to be very much preventing the new centre from slipping on and I am tempted to just hear it up and try it, but I thought I'd post my pictures first and see if anyone could point out anything glaringly obvious before I get out the heat gun.

Cheers,

Simon

[Mosin]

A few more

[chaterlea25]

Hi Simon,
In your photos (4&5) it is quite apparent that the scroll oon the clutch centre is not engaging with the sliding plate!!
The clutch centre looks very like one of the (CRAP) Faulty ones made by MCA(??)
Can you pull it off and send in a photo of the scrolled section, These have the scroll cut in the wrong direction!!!!
I am pointing the blame for your troubles on the centre!!!
Get onto whoever supplied the clutch and tell them the centre will not engage with the sliding plate and the chain is way way off line!!!
Heating and tightening up more will not fix your problems!!
The centre MUST be assembled dry and clean on the taper, use solvent to clean the parts, if the shaft is scored it can sometimes be lapped to the centre, this also checks the taper fit
HTH
John O R

[Mosin]

But surely the sliding plate is attached to the primary inner case? I have tried sliding the centre onto the gearbox mainshaft even witht he inner case removed and it still doesn't go any further on...

Also, with the primary inner case removed, the clutch centre fits through the hole in the sliding plate perfectly.

Sorry if I am not understanding you.

[trevinoz]

Simon,
               I agree with John.
When assembled the scroll should be inside the sliding plate.
I had the same problem with a new 6 spring centre and it was found that the taper was wrong and not letting the centre fit to the correct position on the gearbox mainshaft.
Trev.