Quick question, exhaust bracket + cable shortening

[Stephen Arsenal]

Hi guys I´m in the garage and its freezing,I´m trying to fit the exhaust on the chain side ,but the bracket does´nt line up,here is a picture of how it was before I took it apart,not sure if even this was correctly fitted,or should the bracket fit on the outer side of the hole ??cheers.steve

[MG]

The bracket should fit on the outer side.
Depending on the exhaust pipes and the silencers it might also be necessary to add one or more washers (or spacers of differnet thickness) to align the silencers correctly (so that both have about the same angle in relation to the frame/swing arm).

[Stephen Arsenal]

oophs

[Stephen Arsenal]

Thanks Mg,any time you want to take a weeks holiday up here,just say( bring your spanners mit) danke-steve

[MG]

Don't say that twice, I might really come! 
When's the Techno-Classica in Essen this year? 

[Stephen Arsenal]

Hi Mg,the other side,the clutch lever side,the bracket must go on the inside yes ?(because the the kickstar lever would hit the silencer when pushed downwards,?)

[MG]

Hm, actually not. You could try and swap the two silencers, as the bracket is not in the middle of the silencer usually.

[Stephen Arsenal]

Hi Mg,I guess its march,you are more than welcome to drop by (without spanners).Since you are on line,a couple of more questions.I must shorten the brake cable by about 3.2 cm,should I tie a knot in it,and then weld it into a ball or onto the end fastner,my welder guy will not cut the wire and reweld the nipple,he sayes its too dangerous.Also I have excess brake cable,does it just hang(photo 1) or does it follow the fork arm upwards (p2) cheers

[MG]

Hi Steve!

As for the cable: For shortening you would have to use silver solder. Here in Austria I got a set with flux and a solder with a low melting point (350°C) at a local hardware store (but I'm sure it is available at many places). You can work with the normal blow torch here and it works for steel, brass, stainless and copper. This is the problem with the ready-made cables, because they often use some kind of zinc alloy or something like that for the nipples, so if you shorten it, you need a new nipple (from brass or steel).
This is how you do it: You apply the solder to the point where you plan to cut the cable. Outherwise it will fan out when you cut it. Cut it and then put it through the bore of the fitting and use a centre punch or pin of some kind and a hammer to fan it out. Then you pull it back into the nipple, apply the flux and solder. File away any excess solder or overlaying cable when cooled down.

If you were nearby, I'd say drop by and I'll show you, but unfortunately its quite a piece to Münster from here.  

The cable usually hangs loose, I bent a small loop from welding wire and attached it to the middle front mudguard bracket to fix the cable a bit, so that it doesn't rub against the mudguard and fork legs all the time.

[MG]

Just remembered: In case you have the Haynes manual, I think the process of cable manufacturing is explained in there as well (incl. some pics).

If you shorten the cable, you could as well shorten the outer cover. There has to be enough excess so that it can move freely with the front wheel when you turn the handlebars, on the second pic it looks like its simply too long.

And just to make it clear once more (I think I might not have explained it clearly before): I have the cable run along the fork leg like your third photo shows, but I havent attached it ot the leg somewhere, so it runs freely down through the wire loop at the mudguard stay.

kind like that :

[MG]

one more thing Steve:

ALWAYS cover openings at the engine with a rag or something (cylinder bores, intake manifolds, pushrod casing, etc.). If something falls in there unnoticed you will be in serious trouble when starting here up!

[MG]

Steve,

I just had a flash of genius  : Your bike is a '59, isn't it? 58 and 59 had the bellied silencers with a welded-on bracket. Nowadays usually only the later version (60-62) is available. These have threads and a bolt-on bracket like in the picture.
So maybe herein lies the reason for your problem. I suppose you might be able to mount the brackets on the silencers either way round and change the distance to the frame by that (they have that double-kink and turning them round will make a difference, albeit much a smaller one than changing their position on the frame lug).

[Stephen Arsenal]

Hi,yes its those brackets I have,but the chain side is either off or way off,will see,will be heading back into garage as soon as the sleet clears,will cover the middle bit,cheers-steve

[jimmy]

G`day Stephen
                     a word of warning, if you are using a blowtorch don`t heat the cable red hot or you will destroy the tensile strength and put a potential failure point in it.  Also splay the cable out well in the recessed hole as this is what does most of the holding when you grab the lever, the solder is packing that stops the wire folding back.

regards JIm

[a10 gf]

Adding to this double topic (too late to split, good to make a new topic when leaving the initial subject...), a few pics from one of my old books. Agree with jimmy, too much heat and it could snap when you most need it. Have used normal tin solder with correct decapant flux and got lasting results.