Dynamo !!!!

[Tone]

Well i've checked everything I can think of and the only thing it can be is the DVR2, so I'm going to get a new one and hope it's that. Let you know how I get on, thanks you all for your help, Tone.

[trevinoz]

Tone,
         You can use the old regulator to test. Just take the battery out of the circuit and measure output at the battery leads.
                         Trev.

[Brian]

Tone, you mention you cant use the old regulator to test as its 6v, at what stage did you go 12v because the DVR2 has to be wired differently for 12v.

If you do suspect the DVR2 I am sure if you send it back to Mike he will test it for you.

[Dynamo Regulators Mike]

Yes, do not connect the white wire for 12V output. Polarity of battery matters of course, as well as dynamo output polarity. I have tried to make the DVR2 unit as robust against faults as I can, within what is an acceptable price. Bulletproof against all connection faults or whatever is possibly feasible but impractical. Fitting the recommended fuse helps too.

One other point to watch is dynamo belt slipping. I had problems with this initially with Hawker kit. I find the belt has to be really quite tight with the higher load put on the drive by 12V operation.

Tone, I will be more than happy to test your regulator free of charge (bad pun there), or call me to discuss

[a101960]

One other point to watch is dynamo belt slipping. I had problems with this initially with Hawker kit.

That is a very good point. I have had to tighten mine up two or three times, and to be fair, Sean did tell me  that would probably be the case until the belt had settled down. If I were you Tone I would check the belt if that is what you have fitted, and if you have, it is also possible that you could have oil contamination causing the belt to slip. I seem to remember Sean saying that sometimes a mod is required to the inner timing cover to prevent this happening. Should you find oil contamination Sean will do the mod for you.

[Richard]

Tone,
Just one point about the fixing bracket for the ammeter, if the bracket goes across the two terminals on the ammeter and it is not insulated from the connections themselves then the ammeter will not register any charge or discharge as the bracket will be bridging the circuit, also you will more than likely have a dead short to chassis if the headlamp shell is earthed (presuming it is in a metal headlamp shell), so please check that first.
So with a meter set on continuity and with the battery disconnected and the lights switched of check from the ammeter terminal to chassis and it should read clear i.e. no needle movement.
Richard

[Tone]

Hi all, Sorted, I managed to fry the regulator, got a new oneall ok now thanks again for all your help, Tone.

[a101960]

Tone, glad you got it all sorted, and thanks for letting us no what the fault was.

[Mosin]

For some time I have had a problem with my charging system cutting in and out intermittently. I've never really got around to fixing this until now (there were always plenty of more pressing issues to deal with). Anyway, I removed the dynamo tonight and as I suspected discovered that the wiring on the back of it was in a fairly poor state and most of the terminal connector screws were very loose. I've cleaned things up and replaced what needed replacing but now stupidly can't remember which wire to connect to F and which to connect to D. A previous owner has strayed from the original colour scheme, so no clues there, and i just have two options available. One wire is attached to a terminal connecting it to one of the brushes. The other one goes back into the body of the dynamo. I've searched around quite a bit on the forum, but I can't seem to find anything which actually tells me which of these wires is which.

Sorry for being dim.

Simon

[trevinoz]

Simon,
             "D" terminal connects to a brush, "F" connects to the field coil which is inside the body.
Your external wires will have to be traced back to the regulator.
Trev.

[Brian]

This might help.

[LJ.]

Look at the regulator and note colour of wires...  FADE = Field, Ammeter, Dynamo, Earth,