Author Topic: Engine oil blow out  (Read 5196 times)

Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #15 on: 14.10. 2024 09:18 »
Hi guys,

Thanks for all your help and info.

Today I received the new oil filter so was able to put it back together and fill tank with oil….luckily spotted the leak before I fired it up…..rocker oil feed pipe was split. So oil back out, tank off, pipe off. I’ll hopefully pick some up tomorrow.

Really pleased it’s nothing major👍
52 GF, 59 GF

Online limeyrob

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #16 on: 14.10. 2024 09:30 »
Is it the copper pipe where it joins the banjo?  The design is not ideal and its easy to get a run of the copper pipe vibrating then work hardening and cracking.  You can just the pipe into 2 or 3 shorter lengths then use flexible hose so the whole run is more vibration proof and use P clips to hold it in place.
Slough 59 GF/SR

Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #17 on: 14.10. 2024 09:58 »
Copper part was fine, the split happened where the copper ended inside of the flexi pipe. I was wondering if I could get some armoured pipe to make it more fail safe
52 GF, 59 GF

Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #18 on: 14.10. 2024 09:59 »
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Online muskrat

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #19 on: 14.10. 2024 10:01 »
G'day Craig.
I've been using rubber hose on both mine for 40 years! Most can't see it so go with the flow  *whistle*
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #20 on: 15.10. 2024 08:31 »
 Looks like you have a bit of a bodge there. The original Plunger rocker feed uses cone gland fittings, similar to rocker feed arrangement. Looks as if you have maybe a one side cone/one side flat banjo, copper washer and non standard connector to the rubber return pipe running down to the crankcase oil manifold connection. Original rocker feed banjo is double female cone, Brass hex connector look correct, seals to threaded tank spigot with a small fibre washer, 65 8421. Connector to return pipe 65 8420 has a male cone. These glands should seal with no need for that copper washer.

 As Rob says, not standard but more practical is to replace the rocker feed pipe a flexy, I use transparent nylon tubing, the sort used for oil pressure gauges on old school motors. Gives visible evidence that all is well, and avoids potential fracture from vibration. BSA used a rubber connector tube on S/A models, plunger were always a single small bore copper tube.

 Swarfy

Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #21 on: 15.10. 2024 10:43 »
Cheers Swarfy,

Great info, I’ll just need to read it a couple of times to try to digest it. If you’ve any pics that would help my lack of knowledge 🤔

I’m really glad you replied as I was going to ask another question but I think you’ve answered it here in part.

I’ve put the bike back together today but have an oil leak from copper (?) washer on banjo at bottom of tank/hex connector - I couldn’t find part number so was going to ask. I’ll see if I can get the pic to load and take some others to show what I have, although I might have to post one at a time.

Cheers
52 GF, 59 GF

Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #22 on: 15.10. 2024 10:45 »
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Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #23 on: 15.10. 2024 10:53 »
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Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #24 on: 15.10. 2024 10:55 »
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Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #25 on: 15.10. 2024 10:55 »
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Online limeyrob

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #26 on: 15.10. 2024 11:23 »
Some observations:
I would avoid using cable ties on oil lines. I know they do all sorts of things on modern cars but I would stick to the proper oil and fuel pipe clamps.  The ones with the nut and bolt. These are sized and stay circular as they clamp so they don't leave the leak path that small Jubilee clips do.
The pipe from the rocker box is a bit unsupported. These copper pipes harden and crack with vibration and that's one of the known weak areas. Clip is back to the head steady or something else near or put some split hose over it where it rests on something.  People quite often cut that pipe about 4" from the T and go to a short piece of  flexy to take the load off the T and cross pipe.
This sort:
https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Hose-Clips/Hose-Clip-Mini-8-10-A2-Stainless.html?google_shopping=qty_A2_HoseClip_Mini_10=3&type=pmaxtuesday&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwpbi4BhByEiwAMC8JnViaEzMautiqO5kJdMI-WHHdCiJlhhlebiTPq3NxdAyBvl80x2OvsRoCetIQAvD_BwE
Slough 59 GF/SR

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #27 on: 15.10. 2024 15:02 »
 Later picture shows that I may be wrong with that tank hex connector.

 Parts needed are the fibre washer to the tank, already mentioned, 65 8424 "Oil Return Pipe Nut"...the brass hex,  and 65 8420 " Oil Return Pipe Connection"

 The original one piece metal tube rocker feed is  67 450, this will have the correct double female cone gland fitting to sit between the  nut and connector. The banjo to do the job may be available locally from a hydraulic hose specialist as may better modern fittings.

 Drags online catalogue shows the parts, but they have added confusion by putting the fibre washer between the connections instead of on the tank spigot.

 Swarfy.

Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #28 on: 15.10. 2024 21:44 »
Excellent, cheers mate
52 GF, 59 GF

Offline Craigy

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Re: Engine oil blow out
« Reply #29 on: 16.10. 2024 07:46 »
I’ve stuck my order in for the parts, thanks for all the help and guidance.

I’m I right in thinking the the oil feed pipe 67-0450 is the one your talking about cutting and replacing with rubber to stop chance of fractures

Cheers……now just the long wait ☹️
52 GF, 59 GF