Gearbox oil leak

[chaterlea25]

Hi All,
Wet belts indeed??  I had a look at the valve clearances on the Honda V twin engine in my ride on mower
It has wet belts to cams which are made of PLASTIC  I kid you not 

A dozen or so years ago I rebuilt the engine for a custom Triumph 650, it came with a belt primary and cutaway primary case  Road crap had gotten in and done havoc to the alternator and the belt and not much good to the clutch either
I rebuilt it with a new alternator most of a new clutch and a full primary case. The clutch took "normal" Triumph plates and standard roller bearing rollers. I bought a belt that would run in oil and added ATF to the case
It has not given any issues (AFAIK)

John

[jhg1958]

Just an update.

I removed the clutch and inner primary chaincase cover today. I was cursing as I did it, as it is not too long ago since I rebuilt the gearbox. Changed my mind when I found that I had forgotten to bend the tab washer over to lock the nut and it had backed off a couple of turns.   What a silly bunt.  So I am glad I looked into this.  The seal was a rattling fit and the obvious source of the oil leak.  Tempted to reuse the seal but given the trouble in getting here I will go for a new one.  Plus I will order a larger sprocket too.  Then I will remember to lock none the nut with the tab washer. 

Bloody stupid design of an oil seal.

John

[muskrat]

G'day John.
A bit off topic but I see the earth lead attached to the motor. Did you have trouble with the earthing of the electronic ignition? If so may be painting of the engine plates (mine are alloy).
Cheers
ps: may start a new topic if this goes too far.

[jhg1958]

Musky

I had no problem but when testing continuity after rewiring I got a high resistance from the engine to the negative side.  Decided to play safe with an earthing strap especially since there seemed to be a place to bolt to.

John

[jhg1958]

just an update.  I received the new seal and 20T gearbox sprocket. I glued the gearbox seal in with some instant gasket.  the new gearbox was a tight fit and I replaced the SRM nut and remembered to bend down the the lock washer so hopefully it will not work free again.

I had a bit of fun with the Cush drive nut.  Although I do not need to align the engine sprocket with the clutch sprocket I was unhappy how close the belt was to the rear primary chaincase cover.  I put all 5 shims on the crank to push the pull out.  All was going fine when I put the locktight on the Cush drove nut and tightened the nut flogging with a C spanner.  Tough as the locktight fluid set as I was faffing about.  I found out that with all the shims in place you cannot screw the nut up enough to get the split pin in. So more flogging the poor old C spanner and remove all but one shim. I cleaned the thread and applied some copper slip.  The nut went on easily without flogging the spanner.  But then had cold feet remembering all the traffic on this forum about this nut working loose.  So I took it all off, cleaned off the coverslip and applied locktight, tightening the nut up quickly.

What a silly bunt

Never mind been out and so far no pool of oil to be seen  

A question for all you clever bods out there. I judged the old gearbox socket as worn but ok to use.  Do you agree with me?


   
 

[berger]

10,000 miles in that unless you live on my road

[muskrat]

G'day John.
Looks good to me. Just needs a wash.
Cheers