Bent Foot rest mount

[Russ]

After 15 years of restoring my 51 A10 Plunger, and recently discovering I had a problem with my fork yokes, as previously posted, I thought nothing else could possibly need fixing.
How wrong I was. For no particular reason I decided to fit the foot rests to the bike. Just to be sure. Right one no problem. Left one however will not go on as the Primary Chain Cover is almost sitting on the foot rest mount. There is insufficient gap to allow the foot rest to fully slide onto the taper.
A quick and very basic measurement shows the left one is 3/16th higher than the right. I assume it has been bent up.
Is anyone able to give a general indication as to how much clearance there is between the Primary cover and foot rest mount.
Any ideas on how to fix / bend? the mount down to give clearance.
Fortunately the bike is still in primer and needs to be dismantled so I'm glad I found it now.
Cheers Russ

[limeyrob]

BSA seem to have designed the foot pedals to be malleable and bend not break so there's a good chance you can bend it back cold, obviously hot would be better and take less force. You want around 3/8" clearance to the primary case. I know they are fine with 1/8" but if the bike falls over the pedal is on the case and you'll soon crack it.  Pay attention to how the brake pedal sits too.

[muskrat]

G'day Russ.
The frame (lower forging) is twisted. The frame would need to be stripped, a jig made and lots of heat.
Or send it to a specialist frame straightening workshop. https://aldertonmotorcyclerepairs.com.au/  I've had two BSA frames done there back in the 90's by Lauri, I think his son does it now.
Failing that you could grind a little off the footpeg to slip on the taper further but as Rob said any fall on that side will damage the primary cover.
Best of luck with it.
Cheers

[Russ]

Thanks limeyrob I will use heat and work on 3/8". muskrat I have saved the web site you listed, thanks. I originally had my frame checked locally but didn't know about my foot rest mount at the time. It was over 10 years ago so hopefully the guy is still doing it.
Thanks Russ

[Swarfcut]

  You may get a little extra with a packing piece under the gearbox lower rear mount. Often the gearbox can be raised a little, depends on the amount of slack available in the other fixings. Hiring an induction heater is preferable to flame heat on the cross forging, the frame is brazed construction and joints are better left undisturbed.

 Time for some accurate measuring of the relative heights of the footrest mounting stubs before you start remedial work, a good dose of looking at to determine the root of the bend. You know about the left hand thread???

 Swarfy.

[Russ]

Thanks Swarfy, I have new right and left hand studs and nuts to suit. I have the bike on its centre stand on my "bike bench" which is level. I have leveled the bike across the crankcase opening and taken measurements from the table to the centre of the foot rest studs on both sides to determine that the left one is higher than the right. But I will measure a few more times. The rear upper gear box mount has been modified, narrowed,  so needed a bush to take up the gap. The bottom mounting point on the box does not contact the mounting point on the frame. There is a gap which I have taken up with a spacer. I don't know why? The engine is mounted correctly and the gear box upper mounting bolt is fitted correctly. Go figure?
I have never heard of an induction heater but will investigate.
Thanks Russ