Another Lost Skill. Making gaskets.

[Worty]

To answer Worty, the screws are the same, but from the factory 67 1711 is listed as fixing/oil level and drain, so is the mythical Red Painted Unicorn Variant part. Plain type with the ready rust finish is 67 1706.

 Nut and bolt chart in the literature section of the forum gives a cross reference for part numbers to thread type in the majority of cases. Sod's law applies sometimes, the one you want is not listed.

 Most important that all threads into blind holes are cleared out of muck, debris, old jointing, oil. If not screws may bottom before clamping force is achieved, or worse the hydraulic pressure cracks a weak casting.

 Swarfy.

Perfect🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

A thousand thanks Rog, extremely useful!!

[berger]

richard , shame on you ! TUT TUT those scissors are bent for nails and you have let yourself down you black finger nail person . the ones i have came from good old sheffield made by william rodgers , i think they were my grand dads so they are now old old.

[Rex]

I have a wad punch set for making the gasket holes, but prior to that I used the trick my old dad showed me, namely a nut placed underneath the gasket material under the hole marking and a next-size-up bolt on top. Even better if you slightly round off the bolt end first to get a nice even cut.

[Joolstacho]

If you have a Model shop near you (thin on the ground nowadays) they'll usually have thin-walled 'K & S' brass tubing, -easily sharpened to make excellent hole cutters.

[Macbeth]

We used to get our eng military billets almost solely based on if we could sharpen a 1/32 drill bit. As young fellas if we couldn’t support maintaining the tradesmens tools / work support etc (which included endless gaskets) - then no one wanted you….still get made fun of for only using pencils at work & for polishing my boots every single night 🤣

[limeyrob]

I use a leather punch to make the holes then cut the gasket.  I've learned the hard way not to leave the holes to last!

[muskrat]

G'day Rob.
Yes holes first then inner and outer last.
Cheers

[RichardL]

G'day Rob.
Yes holes first then inner and outer last.
Cheers

I can see that.

[RichardL]

richard , shame on you ! TUT TUT those scissors are bent for nails and you have let yourself down you black finger nail person . the ones i have came from good old sheffield made by william rodgers , i think they were my grand dads so they are now old old.

Bergs,

Hey, I  wouldn’t argue that scissors are better for holes than punches, but if one (like me) has to use scissors, the small nail clipper does a decent job for small holes. Your classic (scissors, that is) looks much larger.


Regarding black finger nails, it’s the norm, just not when I’m working as a high-fashion hand model.     

Richard L.

[Sakura]

Making gaskets.....

  Back in the day, and even now, I have no hesitation to make a gasket from whatever is to hand, Cereal packet card is good, as is 6 pack card. My dad showed me how to tap the card against the sharp edge of the casting, producing a perfect cut and a good copy of the genuine article. I was gobsmacked by this make do and mend philosophy, how simple and convenient it was, and used stuff to hand. That was a long time ago.

 These days I don't attempt to cut out bolt holes with a drill or blade, but instead tap the dome head of a coach bolt into the card over the hole. Put the bolt in the hole to keep the card in place and tap round the casting with the narrow end of a carpenter's hammer and see your Corn Flake gasket emerge in all its glory.

 The cost of a full set of gaskets these days is poor value, so for the odd gasket make your own. Hylomar is still my jointing of choice, but bathroom silicone used sparingly is also OK in the right place.

 I doubt whether many folks make their own now, so another skill to be lost.

 Swarfy.

A note of caution! Not all silicones are the same. The ones with acetic acid (the vinegary smell) are corrosive. Just look at a silicone gun. Personally I only use the gasket specific silicone but each to their own.

[Worty]

I cheated.  Managed to get a nitrile primary cover gasket (1.6mm thick) off Fleabay for £7.70 which is a bit cheaper than the paper ones on there.  Nitrile bonded cork for the size I needed was about £12 - primary cover is roughly 45cm long and about 25cm high I think.  Having said that, I may buy a smaller size sheet and cut out some washers for the fuel tap and primary cover drain plug.  I reckon the sump plate would also benefit from a thicker gasket.

Need to be careful with nitrile washers for fuel as it degrades it - nitrile bonded cork seems ok though.

Comments welcome, don't shoot me down in flames guys.

[limeyrob]

We should digitize the gaskets and get them laser cut.  The hard work is the digitizing but after that the gaskets are easy with the right kit (which I don't have).  I do make my own gaskets by hand, but I'f i could press a button and cut a chaincase gasket or timing cover i would.

[Jules]

Worty, you are right nitrile and petrol these days dont mix, the petrol eats into and swells the rubber then the rubber effectively melts away, anything that touches petrol now needs to be viton (seals) or flouro lined tubing.
Unleaded fuel was bad and now ethanol added, its even worse for fuel systems...

[Worty]

Worty, you are right nitrile and petrol these days dont mix, the petrol eats into and swells the rubber then the rubber effectively melts away, anything that touches petrol now needs to be viton (seals) or flouro lined tubing.
Unleaded fuel was bad and now ethanol added, its even worse for fuel systems...

Now I'm asking the question, will the nitrile part of the nitrile bonded cork deteriorate?    The sheet was sold as fuel and oil resistent.

[Lone Wolf]

Wotcha.

Although aimed at the "arts and craft" market - THIS THING does a good job of gasket making too.