Another Lost Skill. Making gaskets.

[Swarfcut]

 Making gaskets.....

  Back in the day, and even now, I have no hesitation to make a gasket from whatever is to hand, Cereal packet card is good, as is 6 pack card. My dad showed me how to tap the card against the sharp edge of the casting, producing a perfect cut and a good copy of the genuine article. I was gobsmacked by this make do and mend philosophy, how simple and convenient it was, and used stuff to hand. That was a long time ago.

 These days I don't attempt to cut out bolt holes with a drill or blade, but instead tap the dome head of a coach bolt into the card over the hole. Put the bolt in the hole to keep the card in place and tap round the casting with the narrow end of a carpenter's hammer and see your Corn Flake gasket emerge in all its glory.

 The cost of a full set of gaskets these days is poor value, so for the odd gasket make your own. Hylomar is still my jointing of choice, but bathroom silicone used sparingly is also OK in the right place.

 I doubt whether many folks make their own now, so another skill to be lost.

 Swarfy.

[RogerSB]

Me too  .

https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=12378.msg97110#msg97110

Reply #28.

Rog.

[muskrat]

G'day Swarfy.
I always make my own gaskets and do the same tapping around the edge. I get rolls of 0.4 and 0.8mm oil jointing but have used "corn flake packets". In over 40 years I've only bought 2 or 3 gasket kits. I use them as templates. As for goo I use Permatex #3 and a lot of the time the gasket is re-usable. Wad punches and sharp hobby knife works well.
Cheers
Roger got in first and that link shows my post almost word for word.

[Klaus]

I make all my gaskets by myself  but with klingerseal gasketpaper in 0,3mm thickness. Yes its the same manner to "cut" this gaskets  but I use a little brasshammer to save the surfaces.
Than I make copys from this gaskets as much on a sheet of paper. This gaskets can cut out on the outside with a scissor. Than I stick  this on the gasketpaper cut out  and a punsh for the holes. If the gascet is ready I smear both a little sides with HT silicone  and let this dry.
These are the best gaskets I ever had in hand.


cheers Klaus

[Worty]

Funnily enough, on Berg's suggestion, I was looking at nitrile sheet and nitrile bonded cork sheet to make a primary cover gasket.  I was also looking at a cheap set of hole cutters (can get a small set for about £6).

[berger]

worty you can use a small one down the screw holes and punch out all the holes while the cover is on whatever stuff you use , that's what i did with the cork one.

[Worty]

worty you can use a small one down the screw holes and punch out all the holes while the cover is on whatever stuff you use , that's what i did with the cork one.

Just as a quick aside Bergs, do you know where I can find info on which screws go where on the p/s cover.  I know the three big, long 'uns go at the front, but I've sort of guessed at the rest.  I think some may be the wrong sizes anyway.

[RogerSB]

Worty, I'm not Berger (don't do gulpers enough)  .

Here's my reference picture, Primary and timing covers. I put it on here a some time ago, but to save you looking - hope it helps.

(Edit): Sorry, first picture (colour one) attached was put on here by Col. I've included it - I'm sure Col won't mind.

Rog.

[Worty]

Worty, I'm not Berger (don't do gulpers enough)  .

Here's my reference picture, Primary and timing covers. I put it on here a some time ago, but to save you looking - hope it helps.

(Edit): Sorry, first picture (colour one) attached was put on here by Col. I've included it - I'm sure Col won't mind.

Rog.

Cheers Rog, really helpful.  Any idea how many lengths of screw there are?  Some sellers seem to list two, others 3.  Just wanted to make sure I have the right lengths of screw in the right place next time the cover comes off.

[RogerSB]

Here's another . 3 lengths, but different threads for the front 3.

(spending time on here, warm and sunny here in Plymouth for the past 3 or 4 days - normally would be getting some rides in ).

Rog.

[Worty]

Brilliant, cheers Rog.  Any idea why there are two part numbers for the same screws - am I missing something (67-1706 and 67-1711).  On the timing side, apart from the short screws around the dynamo, all the others are the same length??

I'm going to have a look at this more closely when the covers come off for anything.

As for the weather, it's sunny but a bit chilly up near Leeds, you're nearer the sun than us!

[Triton Thrasher]

I make all my gaskets by myself  but with klingerseal gasketpaper in 0,3mm thickness. Yes its the same manner to "cut" this gaskets  but I use a little brasshammer to save the surfaces.
Than I make copys from this gaskets as much on a sheet of paper. This gaskets can cut out on the outside with a scissor. Than I stick  this on the gasketpaper cut out  and a punsh for the holes. If the gascet is ready I smear both a little sides with HT silicone  and let this dry.
These are the best gaskets I ever had in hand.


cheers Klaus

Yeah gasket paper is best, but some office document folders are made from tough cartridge paper that makes better gaskets than cornflake packets.

[RogerSB]

Worty, I'm not 100% sure why, but I think probably one of the part numbers is for some shorter screws for a fully enclosed chaincase as they may bottom out against the chaincase, whereas with just the short chaincase they could be longer. 

The screws are the same, but from the factory 67 1711 is listed as fixing/oil level and drain, so is the mythical Red Painted Unicorn Variant part. Plain type with the ready rust finish is 67 1706.    Sorry Swarfy, just a joke  .

Have a look here, primary screws discussed here: reply #45 through to 52.
https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=13099.45

As for timing side here's a picture of the drawing under the primary case on the .pdf I'd attached. 4 longer around the oil pump.

Rog.

[Swarfcut]

 To answer Worty, the screws are the same, but from the factory 67 1711 is listed as fixing/oil level and drain, so is the mythical Red Painted Unicorn Variant part. Plain type with the ready rust finish is 67 1706.

 Nut and bolt chart in the literature section of the forum gives a cross reference for part numbers to thread type in the majority of cases. Sod's law applies sometimes, the one you want is not listed.

 Most important that all threads into blind holes are cleared out of muck, debris, old jointing, oil. If not screws may bottom before clamping force is achieved, or worse the hydraulic pressure cracks a weak casting.

 Swarfy.

[RichardL]

My invaluable tool for cutting inside curves and holes, if using the flat or peening end of a hammer is not possible, or convenient. Obviously, I haven’t sprung for a hole-punch set.

Richard L.

Worked on the bike yesterday, so wearing the oily thumbnail with pride.