Author Topic: Oil feed tap.  (Read 2588 times)

Offline Worty

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #15 on: 03.04. 2024 11:50 »
My solution is a 'Remove Before Flight' flag that I put around the oil tap I've fitted every time I turn it off. If I'm out for the day on the bike I don't turn the tap off as it's not going to drain too much in a day, so the tap is only turned off if the bike is being left for a few days. The flag is a reminder to turn the tap on before the bike is wheeled out of the shed.

Yes Tim, exactly this.  To me, it's just about getting into a mindset and routine about the bikes.  When I was a kid riding around the countryside, the farmers cut the hedges and left the cuttings all over the road.  On a little 100cc Yam with thin tyres, punctures were common.  My partial solution was to check the tyres round, on the road, after I'd passed, as most punctures occurred by leaving a thorn in that'd be pushed further and further into the tyre.  The same diligence is with me now and, although mistakes can be made, all one can do is mitigate the risk as much as is practicable (and affordable in my case).
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Offline KiwiGF

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #16 on: 03.04. 2024 11:57 »
It’s the as yet unforeseen scenarios that will lead to the engine being started with the oil tap off. After working on the bike being one, being interrupted during the starting ritual being another, countless others.

It would be cheaper to fix the wet sumping issue. The unforeseen WILL happen.

Just my 2 cents worth  *sad*
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Online Rex

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #17 on: 03.04. 2024 12:04 »

The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week.

It's getting into a "set routine" with a certain bike. Bikes with total loss oil systems (Scotts being one) have to have the oil turned on, and (as Worty says) it just becomes a part of the starting routine.
Obviously fixing the sumping issue is the ideal solution, but I don't see too much wrong with a tap and large sign in the short-term.

Offline Worty

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #18 on: 03.04. 2024 12:15 »
Rex, you've just reminded me of my two stroke Yam YB100 that had a separate tank for the 2 stroke oil rather than being ready mixed in the tank.  Although it didn't have a tap, if you didn't check it and you ran out of oil, the engine would seize.  I got into the habit of checking it daily as I was doing around 20,000 miles per year on it at the time and we used to buy 25 litre drums of the stuff. 

I am really good at forming habits around routine things (to blow my own trumpet), especially if there's the possibility of it costing me a lot of cash.  Ironically, I entrusted RM to build the engine as I didn't trust my own abilities, and that cost me dearly.  After Bergs rebuilt the motor, I owe it to him to take care of it.
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Online Joolstacho

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #19 on: 03.04. 2024 13:06 »
Well, what's the simple, safe pragmatic solution?
Just fit a sump plate with a drain plug. 2 minutes to undo, drain, and retighten before each ride.
?

Offline Worty

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #20 on: 03.04. 2024 13:19 »
Well, what's the simple, safe pragmatic solution?
Just fit a sump plate with a drain plug. 2 minutes to undo, drain, and retighten before each ride.
?

Been doing that for ages - my concern is if I'm away from home for a few days and I don't have an oil pan and spanner to hand.  I do have a couple of irritating oil leaks too, so keeping as much oil out of the sump is preferable.

Anyway, in the event I forget to turn the tap off after a ride, that'd be my back up. *good3*

I would turn the tap on and off after every use anyway, just to consolidate the habit in my brain.  I never forget to turn the petrol on, so I know it'd be the same for the oil. 
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Online Billybream

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #21 on: 03.04. 2024 13:37 »
I would search for a brass On/Off valve in preference to stainless steel, it will most probably be nickel or chrome plated anyway, and if the face of the BSP thread is not flat for provision of some kind of sealing washer, easier to correct.
1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966, back on the road 2012 after being laid up for 29yrs.

Online berger

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #22 on: 03.04. 2024 15:41 »
Topdad   -------- Baldrick   *clap*    *lol* *lol* *lol* *lol* *yeah* *wink2* *good3*

Online sean

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #23 on: 03.04. 2024 21:49 »
The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week.  To make matters worse the failure mode is laying down new memories not recalling old ones, so your recall of the work you did on the bike two years ago will be unchanged, but the recollection that you fitted a tap two months ago may fail.  Its why reminders fail.  You see lots of videos of old bikes with a note on the tank or bars "oil tap" and that works for a while, but one day you look at it and think, ""yes I must get one of those".  When you get to "who put that note there?" its time to stop.
I've just lapped the pump faces, re-seated the ball and fitted a new spring.  I've also tapped and fitted a drain in the sump plate and I've got a clean jar to drain the sump oil to put it back in the tank.  I'm hoping it doesn't wet sump, but if it does my plan is not to fit a valve.
the other option will be to tell your wife to remind you THEY NEVER FORGET ANYTHING   *smile*

Offline Worty

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #24 on: 03.04. 2024 21:59 »
The problem with memory is it only goes down so what ever your ability to remember is now it will be less next week.  To make matters worse the failure mode is laying down new memories not recalling old ones, so your recall of the work you did on the bike two years ago will be unchanged, but the recollection that you fitted a tap two months ago may fail.  Its why reminders fail.  You see lots of videos of old bikes with a note on the tank or bars "oil tap" and that works for a while, but one day you look at it and think, ""yes I must get one of those".  When you get to "who put that note there?" its time to stop.
I've just lapped the pump faces, re-seated the ball and fitted a new spring.  I've also tapped and fitted a drain in the sump plate and I've got a clean jar to drain the sump oil to put it back in the tank.  I'm hoping it doesn't wet sump, but if it does my plan is not to fit a valve.
the other option will be to tell your wife to remind you THEY NEVER FORGET ANYTHING   *smile*

Damn straight *evil* *evil* *evil*
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Online limeyrob

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #25 on: 03.04. 2024 23:36 »
Was talking to a guy at a car meet on the weekend, he said "when I get home I'm going to give the wife a good listening to" *smile*
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Offline Slymo

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #26 on: 04.04. 2024 00:23 »
Surely if the bike is wet sumping that badly there is a bigger issue that needs sorting. Mine will get slightly smoky after four to six weeks of inactivity but not to any major extent. Perhaps its time for a deeper look?
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Offline Worty

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #27 on: 04.04. 2024 10:11 »
Surely if the bike is wet sumping that badly there is a bigger issue that needs sorting. Mine will get slightly smoky after four to six weeks of inactivity but not to any major extent. Perhaps its time for a deeper look?

Point taken Slymo!  I'm still not clear in my head where the ball bearing is that's supposed to prevent w/s.  However, I do know that my motor has been stripped more than a Soho dancer, so I'm unwilling to do that again (especially as it's only done 1100m since the Bergs rebuild).  Other than the w/s, the oil returns as it should, and the motor sounds as smooth as a nut.  The old adage of 'it it ain't broke, don't fix it' springs to mind - or in my case, 'if it ain't broke a lot, don't fix it a lot'. *beer* *beer*
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Offline RogerSB

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #28 on: 04.04. 2024 11:03 »
Worty, I'm late to contribute as usual, but just in case you decide differently.

My swing arm A10 only wet sumped about a cup full after about two weeks of idleness, so I made a point of riding it before it got any worse.  Luckily for me now . . . as I can’t ride for another 8 months, in 2021 I fitted one of The Magneto Guys cut out taps. Admittedly it cost £49.50, plus the other bits I had to buy to fit it, but for me it was well worth it.

Takes away the risk of forgetting to turn it on, you’ve just got to remember to turn it on before kicking over, which I did a couple of times initially and wondered why my bike wouldn’t start - until it dawned on me!

Just in case, here's a photo and being a bit pedantic sections of my drawing of how I fitted mine. Drawing in sections as too big for here and you wouldn't read it.

Rog.

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Online limeyrob

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Re: Oil feed tap.
« Reply #29 on: 04.04. 2024 16:42 »
Firstly I'm in the camp that says there's another problem. Over years of BSA's I've found they get about 1/2 pint in the sump after a month or two and will soon clear it in a few minutes of idling.
The little ball is under a screw on the inside of the timing side crankcase next to the plain bush.  Assume the screw will not come out and order a new screw, ball and spring.  You give the seat the smallest wipe with a drill then put the ball on it and give it a decent whack with a flat ended punch so form the seat.  I did this a few weeks ago and tested the new spring. I reckon it would take a psi or two to lift it so it holds back against the pump flow enough to stop the oil under gravity but opens as soon as the pump is running.  Mine was full of all sorts of gunk so its possible yous is stuck open or the spring has bust.
If you go down the tap route buy the one with the switch.  You will easily spend close on that with an industrial ball valve one you've got adapters, sorted the taper vs strait BSP and got the bore opened up.  Then there's the explaining every time someone looks at it and sees the tap they will say "did you know you can get one that shuts of the mag for £45.." and you will reply though gritted teeth "yes but I preferred to save £20 and spend 2 hours more and look I have this little rag I tie on the bars.."  I'd spend the money to avoid that alone.
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