Wassell Electronic Ignition

[Cobra Classics]

Hi All,

My first post.

I'm fitting the Wassell Electronic Ignition as a replacement for the old K2F magneto on an A10 Super Rocket and I'm lining up the magnetic rotor with the stator plate. There is a choice of A (anti clockwise) or C (clockwise) as the base setting. The Wassell instructions says A for all BSA Twins but they also say this is for models with points in the side casing. As the K2F runs anti clockwise at the driven end and clockwise at the points end I'm a bit stuck.
Has anyone been down this road before and has the answer.

Thanks in advance

[Rex]

I can't answer your query, but good luck with anything branded as Wassell.

[Triton Thrasher]

It must be as you look at the points plate position, as if it were on the timing cover.

[Triton Thrasher]

I can't answer your query, but good luck with anything branded as Wassell.

It’s a pretty good product.

[jhg1958]

Yes I fitted a Wassall unit. I need to dig deeper to find the answer but it is opposite to the booklet.

I found my old thread where I got this cracking advice from Chaterlea25

Hi JHG and All,
I think I have found the issue
The instructions say to fit the unit for anti clockwise rotation for BSA twins
BUT  They are referring to A50/65 where the unit is on the other side of the bike and rotating anti clock looking in from the RHS
On the A10 the magneto / ign unit rotates anti clock looking from the RHS
So
When looking at the ignition from the primary (left) side the igniton rotor is turning clockwise (opposite to A65)
So re time the engine using the clockwise position on the ignition unit




I hope this helps it did me. This problem put me back months.

John

[Cobra Classics]

I have added in my wassell ignition to my BSA Super Rocket and have spark at the plugs. I have also added in a fuse on the negative side (positive earth) and ran a wire to a kill button on the handlebars, then a wire from the kill button to the transistor box as per instructions but when I press the kill button the fuse will blow 10amp, when I increase the fuse rating to 25amp, I get sparking / shorting at the kill button. I have checked my wiring and all seems okay.

Any thoughts, what am I missing!!!

[limeyrob]

Sounds like you have wired the kill button to short the supply to earth.  If it is the supply it should be wired to interrupt it not earth it.  Is there a dedicated "kill" terminal?

[Cobra Classics]

No dedicated kill wire on the system.
Basically I've just broke into the supply wire and added the kill button.

[Swarfcut]

  A simple on/off switch in the supply will do it. Looks as if that kill switch is open with engine running, closing the switch is earthing the supply, giving a dead short. The fuse is doing a great job.

 A kill switch of the type you have is usually found on magneto systems, normally open, non conductive  and completes a circuit when pressed. In most applications it earths a coil (eg lawnmowers, Chinese Pit Bikes) on a standard bike magneto it earths the points. In both cases no sparks.

 Putting the fuse in the earth lead (battery to frame) will protect every circuit, even horn and brake light which are not normally wired with the rest of the loom.

 Swarfy.

[Rex]

Yes, I've always fused the earthed side too, but it seems to provoke a lot of debate when some see it.

[Triton Thrasher]

I got a working kill button on my Wassell by fitting a button that earths one trigger wire to the handlebar.

[limeyrob]

Yes, you have either to interrupt the supply or earth the trigger.  It sounds like the supply was earthed not the trigger.  I'm wary of earthing the trigger, on a system with no internal protection this can lead to a constant current through the circuit when it is designed for a momentary one.  Fine if its a press-to-make button but not if its a concealed toggle switch.