Just inherited my fathers A10

[Philby]

Hi, i'm looking for advice......  Having just inherited my Dads A10, which has been garaged BUT hasn't run for about 50yrs. I owe it to my Dad, to try and at least get it started. I'm hoping the hardest part is done....(clearing the garage to gain access)
The question i have is.......what are your views/advice to at least get it started. (fired up) ? Methods,hints & tips. Thanks in advance.  Philby.

[Catz]

I'm no expert but first off make sure the engine is free in the bores then get the carb cleaned out and use fresh petrol. Make sure the tank is rust free and if it isn't then use an auxilliary tank with fresh petrol. Clean the spark plugs and change the oil. I wouldn't worry about an air filter it will still fire up. Probably need a new battery too and it's probably still on its 6 volt electrics.
As i say no expert but that's the least i would do. Others will be along soon to give better advice. Hope this helps.

[berger]

wow not run for 50 years!! i wouldn't want to start it with a thought of riding it. the sludge trap could well be solid with it being stood that long. if you do want to run it i think you will need to drain the crankcase of oil that has run in there from the oil tank first. after that you need to take the plugs out and try for a spark. the points might need a good clean to get a spark. new fuel and proper carb clean has been covered.

[Worty]

Welcome Philby.

Most of the stuff has been covered already - all I'd add is to cover some basics based on logic.

If the bike was running well when it was garaged, then one can assume that some of the 'other' things may be ok (valve clearances, points, magneto, etc, etc).  If the motor turns, I'd whip the plugs and put a bit of engine oil in each hole to help lube the upper end by kicking it over gently.  If there's a spark at the plugs, I would drain the engine oil by taking off the sump plate (checking the gauze for debris at the same time).  After a petrol clean of the oil tank, I would put some cheapish engine oil in and, after a clean of the carb, see if it'll fire up.  At this point, oil should start to return after a short while (maybe 30 secs or so??).  The sound of the motor should give you more clues as to what you need to look at next (including exhaust smoke, etc).

As has been pointed out, the sludge trap is a concern after all this time, which is a full motor stripdown.  I am not absolutely sure what effect a blocked sludge trap may do in the short term - possibly nothing, but if it's going to be ridden in anger, this would need looking at.

Would be very interesting to know more about the bike, like what model/year it is, what piston oversize it's on, what mileage is indicated, etc, etc.

The guys on this Forum love this sort of stuff, and can offer all the advice and guidance you'll ever need.

All the best with it mate!

[limeyrob]

I would not get too worried about the sludge trap just yet, it only sludges up with centrifugal force and it hasn't had any of that for 50 years.  A lesson I have learned the hard way is to be sure why a vehicle was parked up and left.  OK if it was just parked with the intention of use but life moved on, but often they had a fault and the owner got fed up.  It pays to do a good check and assume that the carb may be blocked, the mag dirty or some other annoying fault that will drive you mad.
Drain the engine, oil tank and fuel tank a re-fill the oil tank and new petrol.  Check the gearbox and chaincase oil levels, no point in damaging something that's lasted this long.
Clean the float bowl (carb cleaner is good) and the main jet - easy enough to take out and check fuel pours out when the tap is on.  Unscrew the idle screw (count turns) squirt carb cleaner in then back in to the same count.   Check for a spark, if its manual advance and retard try it at full advance (slack cable) first then work back.  You want a decent spark at least until 50% retarded to get anywhere.  Clean the points, most likely reason for a poor or missing spark - a very fiddley job.  Check the HT brushes are not stuck and turn the engine over with a cloth in the track but don't put your finger in! Use a bit of wood to hold the rag.
Once you have all the bits to start take the plugs out, and (best get a mate) push along in 2nd gear and watch the oil return, when you see it you are good to go.  That's the last step in the process.
Free the clutch by kick starting with the clutch in.
Good luck.
And post photos and more history, as other's have said, we love that.

[Billybream]

Some great advice, but from personal experience my bike was laid up for 29yrs then stripped and fully rebuilt. Upon stripping the engine the sludge trap was completely solid, even the bottom of the oil tank was like thick grease but engine internals remained in remarkable condition, the carburettor was gunged up, I think it's a big risk to run without fill strip down.

[Philby]

WOW......A huge THANK YOU all, for your prompt and thorough replies. Now not being able to ask the questions to Dad, this Forum is fantastic.

He had an A7 then an A10 GF (Black) which my parents got married on. His best man also had an A10 GF (Beige). Dad always wanted a Beige GF, but held back on getting one due to his mate having one. About 20 years later, Dad bought the GF. I remember him starting it up in the kitchen, and Mum going mad, and the neighbours coming around.!!!!!

A bit more info.... I don't have any intensions of riding Dads 1956 A10 Plunger GF (Beige) yet. I have a regret not doing anything on it whilst he was with us. I owe it to him to at least get it started....Now i have more time, with the view to fully restore.

Reiterating my plan.....*Gain access around bike   *Plugs out, add a splash of light oil/GT85.  *Check not seized.  *Check for spark. *Carb off/strip & clean.  *Add Aux tank.

Watch this space.....Individual replies.....Photos to follow !  If i can.      Diolch Philby

[berger]

i hear billybream mine was run and then stood for a number of years while i lost the plot to other things, the sludge trap in theory should not have had the solids i had to dig out but it did

[Swarfcut]

 Have a look on the Forum for  Barn Find Bikes. The usual thing most folks do is jump on the kicker. DON'T DO THIS.  The oil pumps are prone to seize and this is a sure way to cause damage.

 Better to get the spark plugs out and give each bore a good dose of WD, next see if the gearbox will turn...bike in neutral on stand, turn the back wheel, listen for scraping noises and clicks. Then put it in gear, see if the engine will move at all. If it is not seized then you can move on as suggested above. My priority would be lubrication, then sparks and finally carburation.

 BSA used "Service Sheets", the equivalent of the Workshop Manual, all of which are available in the Forum Literature Section. Get clued up first, and while you're clearing the garage, look out for the old spanners marked BSW, WHIT or BSF......none of your modern Metric Stuff will fit.


 Welcome along, you have a life changing experience ahead.


 Swarfy.

[limeyrob]

Re the sludge trap, do we think that they get fairly well blocked in quite a short mileage then settle?  I agree that they always seem to be well solid even on bikes that don't get much use.

[Worty]

Re the sludge trap, do we think that they get fairly well blocked in quite a short mileage then settle?  I agree that they always seem to be well solid even on bikes that don't get much use.

I'm guessing that, having cleaned the trap out, using a spin on filter and semi-synth oil (regularly changed) will reduce the chances of sludge build up.

[Billybream]

Certainly during the 60s and 70s when my bike was my only form of transport I did not even  know I had a sludge trap, seems to me with regular use they perform as the were designed.

[Triton Thrasher]

Re the sludge trap, do we think that they get fairly well blocked in quite a short mileage then settle?  I agree that they always seem to be well solid even on bikes that don't get much use.

When the cavity is nearly full of that black rubbery stuff, oil flow through the crankshaft will be faster, because the passage is narrower.  Thus, oil spends less time in the crankshaft, so less sludge gets centrifuged out of it.

I made all that up myself.

[Rex]

Those Mazac oil pumps will seize up for fun especially after standing for decades in dirty oil.
Makes me cringe when people "chuck some fuel in it and see if it goes". Even if the engine is started and stopped again immediately the oil pump gear will have been destroyed even if the engine itself hasn't.

[groily]

Those Mazac oil pumps will seize up for fun . . .

Which is exactly why a mate was round yesterday with a two-teeth-shorn worm gear on an almost-unobtainium gear pump from his late Sq 4 Ariel Rex!
(Morgo might have some more of their version at some point later in the year  . . .)