Twin leading brake for a10

[Nomad54]

Anyone know how to fit a twin leading front brake onto my 1963 a10 as I am looking at ways to improve the braking

[Sav]

Not a great expert on TLS but I looked at it for a while. I finished up having my shoes relined with better quality brake material and that was quite an improvement from crap braking despite regularly centring the shoes.

I do know there are two sorts of Triumph faceplate and you may need to build up the slots for the fork leg. Others will advise and I am sure this topic will have been covered elsewhere on the forum.

[limeyrob]

My A10 bitsa came with a '68 A65 TLS fitted.  It looks to be that they used the front wheel, hub and mudguard from the A65.  Its the 8" TLS and the hub is iron full width with a flange for the spokes on the brake side.  I believe this means it is intended for the TLS brake.  It is possible to fit the TLS into a standard full width hub but I believe the shoes run over the recesses for the spokes.

I was surprised to see that the peg on the fork slider fully engaged with the brake plate as this is a known problem.  Unfortunately the brake retaining nut was only engaging by one turn and I found they had put 3/16 spacer on the spindle to move the hub over.  I've taken that out and will now take the brake plate to a local welder and have the location slot built up with weld.  The A65 hub is running on the A10 full width hub spindle as this fits the forks.  When its all done I will have to check the wheel to see its central in the forks.  Your fork centres should be 6 3/4".

Search youtube as there is a video of fitting a TLS in a BSA and the welding of the brake stop.  It may take you a while to find a TLS brake, they seem to be sought after.

[rocker21]

fitted one to my 1960 A7ss, a proprietary one from back in the day i think it a Tickle one, be careful in the wet  it locked the front wheel up on a slightly damp road and had me off, full width iron hub

[Ted_Flash]

Mine's got a set of B25 forks and wheel.  OK it's only 7" not 8" but it can still make the tyre sqeal.  Plus you get double damped forks.  Plus they're cheaper than A10/A65 parts.

[BSA500]

Put one in my A7 must have been years ago as it cost me £25 complete. I had the torque peg on the fork extended. The original brake was bloody dangerous

[limeyrob]

Did you get the peg welded? Also how much longer was about right?

[Joolstacho]

From memory, it's much easier if you use the Fork Sliders from the BSA A65 / A50 that used that TLS brake.
When was that first (better) TLS brake... '68 - '70 ?
Previously I had tried the later TLS brake and found it useless, (I don't know how on earth the Rocket 3 stopped with those)!

[muskrat]

G'day Jools.
Yes the conical (comical) brake was as "bad" as the 7" single leader. My 1st BSA was a 72 Lightening.
Cheers

[Rex]

Can't have been set up properly mate. Not quite as good as the earlier TLS (certainly not in looks anyway) but well set-up they can be excellent.

[Joolstacho]

Mate, I tried EVERYTHING!!!

[limeyrob]

I had a 71 Lighting and did well over 30,000 fast miles on it. I never had trouble with the brakes, but I see that they now do longer levers.  My TLS on the A10 looks to be a '68 with the horizontal cable pull.  Sliders are A10 (or very early A65?) - no damper rod but also no circlip? - and they have been chromed so I'll see if I can get the brake plate built up first.
I found the conical hub very sensitive to cable friction and route as both the inner and out move.

[BSA500]

Did you get the peg welded? Also how much longer was about right?

I just built it up with weld and filed it back until it was a good tight sliding fit. Did need a fair amount of weld. Arc weld was easier to build a larger amount than MIG

[Joolstacho]

Did you take any precautions to prevent distortion of the brakeplate whilst welding?

[BSA500]

I only welded the steel torque peg on the fork leg