A10 engine metal xmas tree decorations (shims)

[RichardL]

Yah. In order to work on the mag I have to remove it from the one cylinder base stud holding it in place. EditI did say I didn’t recommend this approach. In my case, I bought the filter mount and realized it was huge. Months later (too late to return it) I figured “what the hell,” and found a place for it. I gotta say, it’s been working fine and I now use chrome-plated canisters.

Richard L.

[Macbeth]

You can't really remove it, all you can do is either fit the tube or not but the tube is a later addition, early cranks don't have it but just the hollow journals as a trap.  With or without the tube the volume to fill the trap is the depth up to the oil holes.  The point about the return paper filter is that its reducing the fine particles so the trap takes much longer to fill.  what I don't know is the effect of different oils or additives.  I plan to run a straight 40 or 50 as I've had good experience with these in the past.

Cheers mate. I was interested in an opinion from a few of you. So we are going the full job. We have found good barrels (that wasn’t easy), crank is getting ground, new oil pump, bearings etc etc etc.  I am definitely going to fit a filter.

The damage from the gudgeon was too much to sleeve it

Im a bit of a fan of a diesel oil & am an habitual oil changer & the old Guzzi seems to love the diesel oil for the last 8 yrs +

It’s a good bit cheaper oil yet I’m more about having both the Guzzi & this BSA on the same high detergent oil with great anti wear additives - reasonable idea with a fresh A10 engine ?

[muskrat]

G'day Mac.
15/40 might be a little light. Good to run in for a few hundred miles. 20/60 would be my choice.
Cheers

[Macbeth]

G'day Mac.
15/40 might be a little light. Good to run in for a few hundred miles. 20/60 would be my choice.
Cheers

Yeah I was thinking that & if there was a 20-50. 60 might be a bit much for the Guzzi yet again I live in brissy traffic in summer & you know that temp.

So cool with diesel oil huh ?

Just need to find a Citroen filter & get it into the tool box.

[muskrat]

G'day Mac.
"So cool with diesel oil huh ?"
Yes mate. On a fresh rebuild the diesel oil should keep it clean. Not recommended for an old worn motor or anything with a wet clutch.
Cheers

[Macbeth]

G'day Mac.
"So cool with diesel oil huh ?"
Yes mate. On a fresh rebuild the diesel oil should keep it clean. Not recommended for an old worn motor or anything with a wet clutch.
Cheers

Oh def I’d never put it in an older petrol or wet clutch. I’d rather have a fresh old model engine on diesel oil for the additives & higher detergent. We had tractors on the farm that were untouched other than maintenance that were 40-50 yrs old & man did I change a lot of oil as a kid. Those old Detroits ran full roar 20 hrs a day in 40c

[limeyrob]

Is the logic of a high detergent oil that it keeps the dirt in suspension until it get to the cartridge filter?  OK with plenty of oil and filter changes and if you have fitted a cartridge filter but how does this work with the sludge trap?

[muskrat]

G'day Rob.
With a fresh rebuild everything in the motor is clean (don't forget the oil tank). Any carbon from blowby ends in the sump and pumped to the tank via the filter. So on the next revolution it's only clean oil being pumped into the crank. The sludge trap should stay sludge free.
Cheers

[Macbeth]

Also the advantage of that sweet spot on the ZDDP for lube & it is cheaper for frequent changes. When it’s an older design engine (ie no modern water cooled tolerances) & not sharing clutch oil & without catalytic converters it makes sense to my thinking once it’s a fresh engine build

That normal oil contaminant is better being in circulation & going through the filter

[Swarfcut]

  The distinction between "petrol" and "diesel" oils is a bit of a myth with modern day oil blends. A typical supermarket oil will say suitable for petrol and diesel, but here we're talking the everyday low stressed engines not highly tuned stuff that perhaps requires a more exotic lubricant (supposedly).

 When I was involved with Vauxhall OHC engines in the 1980's, camshaft wear was almost a pandemic as neglected engines knocked out their cams....we have all bought used vehicles with oil like black tar or dismantled rocker boxes full of tenacious sludge, all a consequence of lack of oil changes. This made me look more closely at oils and found that in the small print the API...American Petroleum Institute classified oils as either S, for service in petrol/gasoline passenger vehicles, or C (commercial?) indicating diesel engines. So a basic spec for an oil will say  API  SL/CF, the suffix letters used indicating a higher spec as to the blend and the tests the oil will meet. These have changed as the world of oil progresses to meet changes in engine design, materials. So suitable for both petrol and diesel motors.

 Then we get manufacturer's own specs in an effort to corner their own niche market, and there are also military specs as well! Not to be outdone the European manufacturers have their own specs, ACEA standard followed by the classification with a  typical format A3/B3.  In all cases for API notation the higher up the alphabet you go, the better the oil blend.

 Lots out there on the web, there is more to oil than you think but at the end of the day it's just good filtration and frequent oil changes that you need to do. The men in white coats have done the donkey work.

 I lubed my  petrol ASTRA on supermarket "diesel " oil for years, it was cheaper than the "petrol " oil, and the small print API spec was identical on both types......These days I still change oil and filter at half the maker's service interval and the top of the engine (twin cam  VV type) looks brand new. Not like the old days of a black hole under the filler cap.

 Swarfy.

[Jules]

Penrite have achieved a good reputation for their oils over the years (IMO!) and that 20-60 is probably the equivalent of the good old Duckams 20-50 used extensively back in the 60's, and I like the fact that its got a good dose of zinc, lots of oils removed that early on because of detriment to catalytic converters and they certainly dont advertise it in the oils now whereas Penrite is proud of it. Zinc is a really good additive to help stop scuffing on start up or on heavily loaded sliding parts like cams and followers....
Detergents are really good cleaning agents BUT you must have a good filter to clean the crap from the oil, ie NOT the sludge trap!