A10 engine metal xmas tree decorations (shims)

[limeyrob]

I agree with the logic of leaving the washer out, it is softer.  May experiment when i get to that stage.  I've just bought the SRM hex nut to replace the standard part, the idea is that it takes a socket and torque wrench so its easier to get the torque right.
https://shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/a7-a10-gold-star-cush-drive-nut-upgrade

[Worty]

I agree with the logic of leaving the washer out, it is softer.  May experiment when i get to that stage.  I've just bought the SRM hex nut to replace the standard part, the idea is that it takes a socket and torque wrench so its easier to get the torque right.
https://shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/a7-a10-gold-star-cush-drive-nut-upgrade

I went for a new, original nut then bought a Peugeot suspension socket that fits it - total cost £22.  The weird thing is the hex nut size on the Peugeot tool which, from memory, is something between 34 and 36mm.  Fitted it with a 3/4", ratchet (built for trucks, I think), brake hard on and tightened until my Popeye arms bulged (broke the rear brake cable in the process).  Then flat punched the nut quite a few times to nip it up a bit more.  Hopefully, the thing won't come loose.

[Macbeth]

G'day Mac.
I agree with all replies. Full bottom end rebuild if it were mine.

Yep that's where im going. Ive since learnt of a bloke in brissy that does them albeit his own & occasionally others Im told. I live in a high-rise thus my car park my bikes are in is 4 stories underground, stinking hot, dusty & as dark as a bats bum. Tolerable for a cable adjustment, oil change & some polishing only. I like my bikes spot on so I reckon whilst someone is in there then finish the job properly. Oddly the moment I went to change the oil, the return on the kicker broke  The bike had sat for quite some years in a collection prior to me buying it so I doubt the owner knew of it, he wasn't a bike rider pur se.

[edboy]

the shim is the only item on the crank preventing roller bearing end float and small shims arn t really up to the job. [ although i still use shims ]
a possible solution is shimming behind the roller bearing outer race which was well known when i first got into a10s . however i shim to the nearest large size of shim and skip the thin ones. i believe if the primary chain is well aligned the crank will self align to a certain degree. what do you think?

[KiwiGF]

the shim is the only item on the crank preventing roller bearing end float and small shims arn t really up to the job. [ although i still use shims ]
a possible solution is shimming behind the roller bearing outer race which was well known when i first got into a10s . however i shim to the nearest large size of shim and skip the thin ones. i believe if the primary chain is well aligned the crank will self align to a certain degree. what do you think?

One thick “shim” is a solution, my engine guy made one up after doing the main bearing line ream job. I do realise this could be expensive to have done but thought it worth mentioning.

[a10 gf]

^^^ Yes, one thick shim.
Have had the metal confetti experience, using several thin ones.

[Macbeth]

One thick “shim” is a solution, my engine guy made one up after doing the main bearing line ream job. I do realise this could be expensive to have done but thought it worth mentioning.

Sounds a good idea once I see what else is needing sorting once it gets opened. Ive made enough mistakes in life to know its only expensive if you have to do it twice.

[muskrat]

G'day Mac.
Pitty we're not closer. I'd love to help. Sister or nephew come down to visit from Ipswich now and then would save on freight.
Cheers

[Colsbeeza]

I believe that riders of high performance bikes including racers avoid lock washers for the reasons already stated, including the clutch nut. They are soft and they take a hammering likely to slightly loosen the pressure on the shims. It is likely that a soft lock washer could reduce the pressure on the shims from 65 ft-lbs to zero so goodbye shims. I use a cheap impact driver drill to belt it up to about 80 ft-lbs ( the capacity of my cheap driver) with some loctite on the thread.

[Worty]

I believe that riders of high performance bikes including racers avoid lock washers for the reasons already stated, including the clutch nut. They are soft and they take a hammering likely to slightly loosen the pressure on the shims. It is likely that a soft lock washer could reduce the pressure on the shims from 65 ft-lbs to zero so goodbye shims. I use a cheap impact driver drill to belt it up to about 80 ft-lbs ( the capacity of my cheap driver) with some loctite on the thread.

Similar to me Col, belt it up with Loctite.  Just as a related aside, when I put the driveshafts on the Octy, I used the old, felt type gaskets.  When all the bolts came loose, it turned out that the gaskets had disintegrated.  My theory is that the failing gaskets created a tiny gap that allowed for movement in the bolts, which then loosened completely to failure over 6k miles (no Loctite).  This time, no gaskets, a damn good degrease, a good dollop of Loctite, and torqued to slightly above spec.  After marking them up with permanent marker, I've checked them over 2k miles and no movement has taken place.

For the clutch centre nut, that was the same as the cush except for the fact I did include a tab washer.

[BSA500]

Not to pour petrol on the fire, but I had this issue for years, rebuild less than a few hundred miles later and shes spitting shims out. Cush drive nut always tight never ever came loose. I found the main bearing could creep along the crankshaft and when doing so would chew up the shims. Solution for me, other that having the crank built up and machined(nobody near me to do it) was our old friend loctite. So while you're in there check the fit of your bearing on the crank as well doesn't hurt

[RichardL]

Solution for me, other that having the crank built up and machined(nobody near me to do it) was our old friend loctite.

By which, I trust you mean the bearing-gap filler type, as I have used (available for various gaps, of course).

[Macbeth]

Not to pour petrol on the fire, but I had this issue for years, rebuild less than a few hundred miles later and shes spitting shims out. Cush drive nut always tight never ever came loose. I found the main bearing could creep along the crankshaft and when doing so would chew up the shims. Solution for me, other that having the crank built up and machined(nobody near me to do it) was our old friend loctite. So while you're in there check the fit of your bearing on the crank as well doesn't hurt

It will def get a going over mate. I just hope it has not caused any issues but hell if there is any wear on anything on opening then the wallet stays out until it’s all well sorted.

[Greybeard]

In case no one mentioned it, while the cases are split, clean the sludge trap and the anti-wetsump  valve. 👌👌

[limeyrob]

Order the 2 sludge trap plugs now, they will be toast by the time you get them out.