A10 engine metal xmas tree decorations (shims)

[limeyrob]

You can't really remove it, all you can do is either fit the tube or not but the tube is a later addition, early cranks don't have it but just the hollow journals as a trap.  With or without the tube the volume to fill the trap is the depth up to the oil holes.  The point about the return paper filter is that its reducing the fine particles so the trap takes much longer to fill.  what I don't know is the effect of different oils or additives.  I plan to run a straight 40 or 50 as I've had good experience with these in the past.

[Macbeth]

You can't really remove it, all you can do is either fit the tube or not but the tube is a later addition, early cranks don't have it but just the hollow journals as a trap.  With or without the tube the volume to fill the trap is the depth up to the oil holes.  The point about the return paper filter is that its reducing the fine particles so the trap takes much longer to fill.  what I don't know is the effect of different oils or additives.  I plan to run a straight 40 or 50 as I've had good experience with these in the past.

Appreciate the explanation mate 👍 I want this done properly.

[muskrat]

G'day Mac.
Leaving the tube out will upset the balance factor. Just clean it, put it back in and change the oil often. Add a filter and change the oil half as often.
The oil is the life blood of the motor. Yes "in the old days" so on and so forth. Oil and filters are cheap compared to a rebuild!
Filters on both mine and changed every second oil change at roughly 1000 miles.
Cheers

[limeyrob]

I've been following this guy on Youtube who's rebuilding a blown A65.  He rebuilt the engine 3,500 miles before it destroyed itself.  it looks like a rod broke but he's doing the sludge trap and bottom end again.  In this video he shows the level of sludge trap gunk at 3,500 miles and his opinion is its not much.  I disagree and think that if that's what one looks like at 3,500 miles I'm definitely fitting the extra filter.  Worth watching the whole series and there is some great advice too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KzXPIzev8c

[Swarfcut]

 That big journal sludge trap tube needs to come out because it reveals another cavity which acts as a reservoir for the gunk, separating particulates out by centrifugal force. Folks remove the end plugs, clear out the visible tube, think the job's done. But that radial bolt needs to come out, then the tube  itself will  be released and come out, as on that viddy. It may require persuasion or even destruction, if it is well carboned up, replacements are available. As stated, don't leave it out.

 Ideally the bolt should be replaced with new, and from experience folks use a good dab of loctite as belt and braces. Failure is a recipe for major damage. A cleaned out crank, a filter in the system and frequent oil changes gives the best of both worlds and keeps things running smoothly, as well as extending the life of that crank timing side plain bush.

 Swarfy.

[Macbeth]

All great advice gents - really appreciate all this knowledge

[Greybeard]

The toolbox on the Plungie is not wide/deep enough to house the Norton type filter. On mine I mounted the filter on the bottom of the rear mudguard, behind the gearbox. This is a great position for clean filter changes.

[limeyrob]

Today's task for me is to offer up the filter unit and try various locations and, from experience, not rush into spending our making a bracket for a location that doesn't work .  Above gearbox or under the mudguard are favorites so far.
I had to chisel the sludge trap tube out so I've already got the new tube and flywheel bolt.

[Greybeard]

Is this a swinging arm frame?

[limeyrob]

Mine is, 1959.  Its a kind of cafe racer so its got a shorter chrome rear mudguard.  I've just been offering up the engine plates and there seems to be room.

[berger]

i put mine on a bracket held by the rocker box nut and rested on the mag with a rubber o ring,i had to alter the inlet and outlet for rocker feed and return to tank because my oil tank return goes into the filler tube, this caused a problem with carb clearance so made a spacer for carb.

[RichardL]

Not really recommending this approach, but since filter type and position is the current focus, thought I’d jump in, as well. My use of an oversized, non-Norton,  aftermarket screw-on cartridge holder. Other approaches found in the same thread. https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=2913.msg59586#msg59586

Richard L.

[RichardL]

Here is the corrected link address (also added to my post, above): https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=2913.msg59586#msg59586

[KiwiGF]

I opted for one of the easiest ways of fitting a commando type filter housing, uses the std oil pipe too, and I reckon the horizontal mounting fits with the engine rather than vertical. Just my opinion 

[berger]

a bit awkward getting to the points richard