51 A10 centre stand

[Russ]

I need to repair the centre stand on my 51 A10 as the left side arm is partially missing. That's the one with the "short" left side arm, not the longer arm with the round knob on the end which was fitted from 52 onwards.
Can someone post a photo of their stand in the up position so I can get a visual image as to how it looks. Photo is how it should look.
Thanks Russ

[MikPowl]

I'm sorry I can't help with your early stand shape, but quite soon now you're going to be struggling with fitting the pesky mainstand spring!  An absolute pain especially if you want to protect your newly painted bits. This is how I managed it - a 1hr - 25 seconds job. An hour to make the jig and lever, and 25 secs to pull the spring with the lever and clip it onto the stand.

[Russ]

Thanks MikPowl, great idea to use a ratchet strap. I have pre-assembled my bike (before painting) to test fit all parts and fitted / removed the spring a couple of times with great difficulty.
Will use your method for final assembly.
Thanks Russ

[orabanda]

This is a very useful tool; from MikesXS.com.
Cheap, works on centre stands, side stands, brake shoe springs, etc.
https://www.mikesxs.net/motion-pro-heavy-duty-spring-hook-tool.html
Cheers,
Richard

[Russ]

Thanks Richard, I have a similar tool for trampoline springs but it was too bloody hard.
Russ

[limeyrob]

I've had success putting the spring on first then levering the stand to get the pivot in.

[Swarfcut]

 On Plunger bikes the top of the stand  flats where they meet the underside of the footrest forging in the down position suffer wear as does the flat face of the forging. This results in the stand feet ending up too far forward and the frame sitting just that bit lower when parked. Cue for a hernia as the bike needs to be lifted up and over to get it off the stand.

 Rectification is far easier with a bare frame, so I'd say that the first stage of any major rebuild is attention to the stand, pivots and the forging.

 Easier to fit the spring and pull on the stand, then use  thin bar  through the pivot holes to keep it roughly in place while you wiggle the pivot holes into line one by one and insert the pivot pins. Original pins had a grease nipple, threaded end and castellated retaining nut, washer, split pin.  Plain bar, washers and a couple of split pins for each will do for now if you have no serviceable originals.

 Swarfy

[Russ]

Thanks Swarfy, that's an excellent idea on how to fit the stand.
Mine has the original pins with grease nipples and correct nuts. I will check the stand and frame for wear as you suggested.
I am still hoping someone can post a photo of the 51 stand in the up position so I can get an idea of how far the left side protrudes out from the muffler.
This is the last job I need to do before I strip the bike down and arrange for it to be painted.
Photo of my bike for interest? and photo of the left side of my centre stand showing the end missing.
Bloody photos are turned sideways and I don't know how to fix them? I've given up grrrrr
Cheers Russ

[Rex]

On Plunger bikes the top of the stand  flats where they meet the underside of the footrest forging in the down position suffer wear as does the flat face of the forging. This results in the stand feet ending up too far forward and the frame sitting just that bit lower when parked. Cue for a hernia as the bike needs to be lifted up and over to get it off the stand.

Mine wasn't worn in those locations, but the stand pivot holes had badly elongated over the years, probably due to owners forgetting to grease the nipples occasionally.