Author Topic: Polishing material  (Read 835 times)

Offline sean

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Polishing material
« on: 13.11. 2023 18:44 »
What is the best material for hand polishing aluminum?

Online Roger (Doomtrainbarx)

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #1 on: 13.11. 2023 18:57 »
I like "Mothers" - Better than Solvol and much easier to use.
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Offline sean

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #2 on: 13.11. 2023 19:04 »
I am quite happy with solvol been using it since the 60s I am wondering what material or cloth is the best tried paper towels, rags , etc

Online berger

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #3 on: 13.11. 2023 23:37 »
Elbow grease and plenty of it then fast and furious cloth use until your fingers seize up and you go dizzy *countdown**beer*

Offline fffcycles

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #4 on: 14.11. 2023 00:57 »
Well then, that would be the reason I splashed out on an 8” buffer and the mops. Flings a lot of crap around but does a nice job!
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Offline BagONails

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #5 on: 14.11. 2023 01:00 »
You can use Google and find more information than you've got time to read or do some or all of the following. Basically the more time you put in the better the end result.
You should flatten the surface and remove scratches and gouges first starting with a file then coarse, medium and fine wet and dry paper using WD40 or CRC to keep it cutting, finish with a metal polish of your choice and a clean soft microfiber cloth. (My words).

"You can polish your aluminum by hand or using a machine; the recommended approach will depend on the size and condition of the workpiece.

Typically, when smaller aluminum surfaces are dull but do not show significant oxidation, rust, pitting or burns, you can use a good hand polish with a microfiber applicator to give them a quick shine. If you're tackling a large object and using a commercial polish, it’s faster to use an angle grinder with buffing wheels. or fit a buff on your pedestal grinder. Industrial buffs have powerful motors and upgraded bearings to cope with high loads but you are unlikely to need to go that far.

Add a bit of coarse abrasive compound to your stiffest buffing wheel. Buff the entire surface in sections, adding more polishing compound as needed. When you've finished this step, wipe the residue completely off and change your buffing wheel, as you don’t want to mix abrasives.

As with sanding, start with the coarsest abrasive and work your way down. You can start with a gray metal buffing compound bar, which is formulated for cutting non ferrous metals and reducing imperfections, and follow with a brown tripoli, which does an excellent honing job on aluminum. For a mirror shine, finish up with a white rouge buffing compound and give the workpiece a final wipe with a clean cloth."
(copied from https://www.redlabelabrasives.com/blogs/news/how-to-polish-aluminum-the-full-guide)

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Offline sean

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #6 on: 14.11. 2023 03:05 »
You can use Google and find more information than you've got time to read or do some or all of the following. Basically the more time you put in the better the end result.
You should flatten the surface and remove scratches and gouges first starting with a file then coarse, medium and fine wet and dry paper using WD40 or CRC to keep it cutting, finish with a metal polish of your choice and a clean soft microfiber cloth. (My words).

"You can polish your aluminum by hand or using a machine; the recommended approach will depend on the size and condition of the workpiece.

Typically, when smaller aluminum surfaces are dull but do not show significant oxidation, rust, pitting or burns, you can use a good hand polish with a microfiber applicator to give them a quick shine. If you're tackling a large object and using a commercial polish, it’s faster to use an angle grinder with buffing wheels. or fit a buff on your pedestal grinder. Industrial buffs have powerful motors and upgraded bearings to cope with high loads but you are unlikely to need to go that far.

Add a bit of coarse abrasive compound to your stiffest buffing wheel. Buff the entire surface in sections, adding more polishing compound as needed. When you've finished this step, wipe the residue completely off and change your buffing wheel, as you don’t want to mix abrasives.

As with sanding, start with the coarsest abrasive and work your way down. You can start with a gray metal buffing compound bar, which is formulated for cutting non ferrous metals and reducing imperfections, and follow with a brown tripoli, which does an excellent honing job on aluminum. For a mirror shine, finish up with a white rouge buffing compound and give the workpiece a final wipe with a clean cloth."
(copied from https://www.redlabelabrasives.com/blogs/news/how-to-polish-aluminum-the-full-guide)

sold all my buffers stuff when we downsized finish is very good on parts no need for sandpaper and files just want a high gloss old cotton sheets have been going missing   my wife says

Offline Black Sheep

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #7 on: 14.11. 2023 06:45 »
You can of course overdo and end up cutting through the hard outer layer and uncover previously hidden imperfections and bubbles. No cure for that.
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Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #8 on: 14.11. 2023 08:52 »
 To clean carbon from conrods I used to use WD and steel wool, but read somewhere that small steel particles will embed themselves in the alloy. Urban myth? Reckon it was on a "how to polish" site.

 For initial removal of surface contaminants on larger castings it's a brush scrub in the parts washer for me, followed by a good rub with a Scotchbrite pad and  looky as to what's under the muck. Then with a clean surface you can decide on the next move, so not using harsh abrasives as a first step.

 I gave a Plunger Primary cover to a professional polisher....it came back with a rippled finish. So be careful, as even those doing it all day sometimes get it wrong. His usual job was antique brass, so must have used the same heavy handed mop technique, alloy needs a somewhat lighter touch.

 Swarfy.

Offline BagONails

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #9 on: 15.11. 2023 00:38 »

 I gave a Plunger Primary cover to a professional polisher....it came back with a rippled finish.
 Swarfy.

Yep it's quite possible to go too hard Swarfy, and parts get very hot! I've found the BSA cases to be pretty soft.  You have to feel for the guy though, I mean who'd be a professional polisher?  *eek* *eek* *eek* Must be the most boring job in the world!  Like all these artisanal jobs it takes a modicum of care and common sense.

As to the steel wool fines embedding in the con rods hmmm maybe but I would think you'd want to finish them with a light buff which you would think would remove anything not part of the parent material? Fine steel wool is another effective tool in the polishers arsenal too along with your Scotchbrite pads in fact you can buy a Scotchbrite wheel for this very purpose, very good they are!
Ian
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Offline Worty

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #10 on: 15.11. 2023 15:59 »
I use autosol which is brilliant.  For deeper scrawps, I use polishing compounds from hard to soft on a buffing wheel, then finish with autosol.  I have found that the ally covers on the Kwaka seem a bit softer than the GF, very easy to damage and I've noticed very small patches of 'corrosion'.  I believe the factory put a coat on the covers to protect them from oxidisation, which left them a bit 'gunmetal grey' but with a nice even colour.  Now that coating has started to come off so they get tarnished pretty quickly.  Solution, electric drill with mop and autosol - shiny in no time.
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Offline sean

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #11 on: 15.11. 2023 16:49 »
picked up a set of buffing wheels and compounds yesterday, ....replaced the gearbox main shaft seal figured I might as well polish the primary cover before I put it back together  ....long winters here give me something to do .

Online limeyrob

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #12 on: 16.11. 2023 21:37 »
Thick cloth! I once used paper towel and it wore through so I polished off my fingerprints.  Well that was what I put in my statement.... *smile*
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Offline Jules

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #13 on: 17.11. 2023 11:06 »
cotton muslin was the go to stuff back then, the "matting" type material held the polish better and the cotton was coarse enough to make rubbing not toooooooo hard!

Offline Worty

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Re: Polishing material
« Reply #14 on: 17.11. 2023 11:52 »
cotton muslin was the go to stuff back then, the "matting" type material held the polish better and the cotton was coarse enough to make rubbing not toooooooo hard!

Just working through the last of the kids' toddler clothes, next I'll start on my 'oldest and tattiest first' T-shirts. *wink2* *wink2* 

Note to self:  Remember to remove buttons and zips before hard polishing the paintwork. :o :o *pull hair out* *doh* *doh*

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