Hollow SA spindle.. removal

[Whatnow]

On the big frame strip down, not too difficult because most parts are finger tight .. well they were 30-40 years ago.

The SA spindle rotates a few mm but won't come out, I take it the bushings have siezed.
Some gentle tapping with reversed nut, block and big hammer have only resulted in a split knuckle 

it is not a case of leaving if not needed , tightened there is masses of play.

I've searched, read the threads and it appears that the destructive route may be the only option.

Heat straight from the go?
Or drill the top of the cross pipe. liberally dose with a penetrative.. try again next week ?
 

[CheeserBeezer]

This link is on the Priory Magnetos and Cheshire BSA websites. It seems there is no alternative to 'slicing' it out with a fine powersaw, then drilling down the rubber. I've done this lots of times and can't find a better way. It's not as bad as it looks. I use a Black and Decker scorpion saw as advised. Take your time, be careful!
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Mf1eJwzQVUfiUr0hJTOg5yIKvfH8wDAR/edit

[Whatnow]

This link is on the Priory Magnetos and Cheshire BSA websites. It seems there is no alternative to 'slicing' it out with a fine powersaw, then drilling down the rubber. I've done this lots of times and can't find a better way. It's not as bad as it looks. I use a Black and Decker scorpion saw as advised. Take your time, be careful!
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Mf1eJwzQVUfiUr0hJTOg5yIKvfH8wDAR/edit

thanks for the link

joy of joys drilling out rusty old bushes, haven't done that for a few years 

[KiwiGF]

On the big frame strip down, not too difficult because most parts are finger tight .. well they were 30-40 years ago.

The SA spindle rotates a few mm but won't come out, I take it the bushings have siezed.
Some gentle tapping with reversed nut, block and big hammer have only resulted in a split knuckle 

it is not a case of leaving if not needed , tightened there is masses of play.

I've searched, read the threads and it appears that the destructive route may be the only option.

Heat straight from the go?
Or drill the top of the cross pipe. liberally dose with a penetrative.. try again next week ?

Here is some info. Might be an idea to check you can source the silent blocs, also that they have the correct diameter as there was a duff batch made many years ago that might still be around. I used a thin cut off disc to cut them out of the frame, but that needs to be done very carefully.

https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=4293.msg31755#msg31755

[BVSR]

Hi, some pics how I did.

Markku

[BVSR]

Some more

[Whatnow]

got the SS down to engine (bock & cylinder) in frame today.
The arm.. definitely seized in place but some up/down movement of the spindle in o/s frame hole until tightened..

Last on the road in 77..already long seized & worn oval?

Turned out the locking bolt was a 1/8 in 1/4 hole which didn't help trying to work out where the play was.
With the right size imo its pivoting on the n/s locking tab.

Good news.. the chrome shock /yoke caps came straight out..