A10 12volt no start

[groily]

If "spinning fast" is much below the quoted 3K rpm, then the timing may end up being set a fraction advanced, as I'm assuming the programmed curve doesn't flatten out until that speed? Which is probably about 50mph in top gear equivalent.
(Have to say, I haven't enjoyed playing with these things much either!)

[muskrat]

G'day Catz.
I use a separate 12v battery so it doesn't take any power away from the ignition. Hook strobe up to that battery and the pick up lead (note the arrow) to the spark plug lead.
Just point the light at the disc and increase the revs till you see the flash stop moving, that is full advance (easy if you have a mate work the throttle). Them move the pick up plate till the flash is where you want it. As long as you've set the pointer at exactly TDC all is good.
Things with Boyer. If you start with a full 4Ah battery and your dynamo stops working you will get about 1 hours riding. When the battery drops to about 10v the ignition will revert to full advance so at low revs she will run like a pig. Just so you know.
Cheers

[Catz]

I've set it the best as i could though can't see 33° BTDC more like 25°. I feel like i should have left it well alone and used it as it was set up when i got it from SRM.
At first i turned the pick up plate the wrong way and i could tell it was wrong, or so i think, and i've turned the pick up plate in the opposite direction and it's at the end of it's travel within the slot.
Must admit it seems to tick over better but i'm still not happy/convinced now that i've messed about with it. Next thing i suppose is to take it round the block a few times and take it from there though i've noticed a mysterious oil leak from one of the forks. Do i like fettling? No i don't.

[groily]

This is what BB have to say where you run out of adjustment before getting the figure you want -

Start engine and run for 4 to 5 minutes to warm up. Connect the strobe lamp and
time with the engine running up to 4000 R.P.M. This is done by moving the stator
plate on its slotted holes. If the timing is not obtainable before the end of the
adjustment, the magnetic rotor will need to be slackened off and moved a small
amount until the timing can be obtained

From (as an example): http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00052.pdf

If you aren't getting more than 25°BTDC at full advance, things probably won't turn out well. I know I had to fight with both of the BB Mk1V systems I have had - but thereafter they were good as long as the battery voltage was kept up.
They say their newer systems aren't so sensitive to battery voltage (so the gizmo doesn't stay at full advance if voltage isn't high enough) but I do have to admit to having retro-fitted a magneto on one of the two I had because the elderly 3-wire 90W alternator (doubled-up to 12v operation) wasn't really up for a decent halogen globe + BB sparks in low speed conditions. The other bike, I stuck with the BB set-up having fitted a newer 200W alternator.
It should be OK with a dynamo - I've seen it done successfully using DVR2s - but there won't be a lot of spare juice available. I'd think LEDs could be your friend if you're not there already?

[muskrat]

G'day Catz.
Groily hit the nail on the head. Pop the rotor of and move it back to give more adjustment.
Cheers

[Catz]

Thank you both for your replies.
I'll have a look at it. I reckon it could be done by ear instead of that useless degree wheel from SRM.

[muskrat]

G'day Catz.
Don't give up mate. Once it's done right you won't need to touch it for years. Getting the TDC mark is important. One of those tools that screw into the plug hole isn't bad, I use a dial gauge. Your pointer looks a bit flimsy and will shake around with vibes. Turn the disc so it faces more to the pointer mounting and make a more solid pointer.
Both mine have the degree disc and pointer permanently fixed.
Cheers

[Catz]

I appreciate what you're saying Muskie and i found TDC and used a piston stop and come to think of it now the pointer could have been bouncing around a bit/a lot.
Once i got the pick up plate adjusted it sounded like it was near the mark anyway and i'm not going to mess around with it again until i test ride the bike.
My other concern at the moment is to get this spare tank fitted and sort a dodgy left hand fork leg.