Bergers Van

[berger]

dave 55 when i looked at this post again i thought you were going to say all electrics have to be connected to make it start

[Worty]

Worty you could try Just Trays over at Morley off the A650, its all they make . Even ones that look like stone .

Cheers Dave, I'll give them a try!

[berger]

this van is jinxed, i went out round the block and when returning the servo failed to work-- investigation needed tomorrow. then whilst stood i started it and tried reverse gear and first gear just to hear grinding noises , there must be some air left so more bleeding to do. i then tried the 4 stages of the heater fan for only number 4 to be working , possibly a resistor fault more investigation needed. then the windscreen washer failed so off with the motor to find the smallest salt sized grain of muck stopping it, soon put right at last something went ok. the clutch pedal electric switch that i had to replace does naff all as far as i am concerned because it starts with or without pressing the pedal down so i don't really know what it does , it makes me wonder what else it will throw at me bearing in mind this journey started with a leaking clutch slave cylinder costing all of £35 , up to now the parts needed and replaced has hit £ 600 , go on tell me i could have bought another for that money. pic of the mystery switch that works on a ratchet method the red bit pulls out and pushes in

[berger]

  the switch could / maybe prevent me starting it when in gear unless i press the clutch?? i will try that tomorrow 

[Greybeard]

😩

[berger]

well it wants to start with the engine in gear with clutch pedal against the switch so i don't know what it does. the good news is the clutch worked well but needs a final bleed. i found an air leak on the brake servo and sorted that. i took it a 5mile run and noticed the water temp gauge is now working after replacing the sender. the engine management light has come on but that is to be expected having nearly everything in bits, some come on when you drop the oil for gords sake!! i will keep my eye on the front tyres now the subframe has been off. the only job now is GO TO THE PUB! and put off the heater fan variable speed problem for another day. yippee 9 weeks on and off of pure hell working on this fiat/ vauxhall bag of poo

[berger]

i have been told that the clutch switch controls the fuel to the injectors so it doesn't rev away when changing gear, i always thought that's what the accelerator pedal was for anyway the brake lights became permanently on because of messing with all the pedal brackets, i couldn't get to try and adjust the switch without borrowing octopus arms so i slipped a spring steel clip over the part of the pedal that contacts the switch ,, sorted what a bodge the diff whine is much quieter after sorting out the pin that the planet gears turn on, so sort of a result. anyone want to buy a van?

[Worty]

'anyone want to buy a van?'

Heh, if I bought it, I'd probably drive it to the nearest garage for a p/x

[Worty]

Ok guys, I have car problems now.  Fitted new CV boots and reassembled.  Drove round the corner and the drive went completely with a bit of a graunchy noise on the r/h/s. My work looks good and everything went together well.  What d'you reckon???  CV joints went back on alright, although I think I've had a driveshaft rattle for some time.  Could I have disturbed something?? I've only tried first gear so far, but some advice says try a different gear to see if the syncro is shot??

[RDfella]

What car? Sounds like the driveshaft inner CV has slipped out of the box.

[Worty]

It's a Skoda Octavia 1.9Tdi PD 1Z5 Estate 2008.  All I know is that the inner drive shaft is a bolt up affair to the gearbox (so you can replace the shaft without disturbing the box).  If something has popped out, I don't know how as it wasn't pulled.  The CV joints seem to have located correctly  on the shafts, and both hub nuts tightened to full torque.  Clutch was ok on start off.  Also, car will roll in gear without depressing the clutch (not the only thing depressed at the moment).

[berger]

worty sounds like something has broke, you could have put those glue together boots on , hope this helps. on a more serious note how far does it roll and does it do it in every gear. well well what is wrong with mine bogging out then going like a widow maker. i may have the answer i can't find any wiring to what is left of the oxygen sensor, someone has been playing and i can't get my head round how well it went for the 30 mile drive home when i bought it, and it has just started acting the pillock

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
Sounds like you two have to find the other half's a busier corner and buy new ones (cars/vans not other half's).
Cheers

[groily]

well well what is wrong with mine bogging out then going like a widow maker. i may have the answer i can't find any wiring to what is left of the oxygen sensor, someone has been playing and i can't get my head round how well it went for the 30 mile drive home when i bought it, and it has just started acting the pillock

When my 13 yr old Trafic started doing something similar bergs - was often a slug at low rpm  but ran well up the range - it was that sensor, or one of them (think there are two doing something similar on Renaults).
I took it to the local village garage and they plugged it in to their 'valise' (computerised suitcase) and gave me a diagnosis that confirmed what I thought
That was the cheap 10-minute  bit - but the darn sensor, which lives in the depths of the inlet tract, was a couple of hundred Euros for a bit of nowt. The profit margin on some of these parts must be enormous.
When I discovered that, I let the garage order and fit the darn thing too, as the friendly grease-monkey does it every day and is suitably double-jointed. I don't and I'm not. Frankly, it was worth it despite my initial sulk, because there are times  . . .

[berger]

booked in for a plug in tmow at garage and the temp gauge has decided to work again with the fan kicking in at 90 degs , see what tomorrow brings