Indian made fuel tanks

[RDfella]

Steel tank? If it's just a pin hole soft solder is probably the best option.

[muskrat]

G'day Catz.
Depending where the leak is, RD's suggestion of soft solder may work.
I've had mixed emotions with Por-15. It is brittle in that one tank on a rigid Harley the lining cracked. Caswell over the top fixed it. Done a few tanks with Caswell and no problems. Gotta can ready to do the fiberglass Cafe tank. https://www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/epoxy-fuel-tank-sealer .
Cheers

[Catz]

Steel tank? If it's just a pin hole soft solder is probably the best option.

Yes it is steel and just a pin hole. My next door neighbour reckoned on solder.

I'm going to use a good genuine A10 tank that i've got. Just tested it and it doesn't leak and it fits better than the Indian effort.

[RGS Chris]

G'day Catz.
Depending where the leak is, RD's suggestion of soft solder may work.
I've had mixed emotions with Por-15. It is brittle in that one tank on a rigid Harley the lining cracked. Caswell over the top fixed it. Done a few tanks with Caswell and no problems. Gotta can ready to do the fiberglass Cafe tank. https://www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/epoxy-fuel-tank-sealer .

I've had good results with Caswell, just make sure you have sufficient to cover the tank internals, it won't take re coating.

[Jules]

It'd still be worth soldering up the pin hole now IMO, I agree that done with good solder and iron, on a clean hole should work ok too, if you dont do it now you'll rediscover it later when you when you want to use it and will have forgotten about the leak (at least I would!!) 

[Catz]

Top tip. Thanks.

[Swarfcut]

 Epoxy Putty will also work for a cold repair. I've had good success with weeping seams on vehicle fuel tanks, old style metal radiators and rusted, pin holed sumps. Done as a temporary stop gap, it saved a load of hassle and has lasted years.

 Swarfy.

[KiwiGF]

Epoxy Putty will also work for a cold repair. I've had good success with weeping seams on vehicle fuel tanks, old style metal radiators and rusted, pin holed sumps. Done as a temporary stop gap, it saved a load of hassle and has lasted years.

 Swarfy.

I’ve had success with “kneadit” std version (part of toolkit) but a quick google reveals its now marketed by selleys and the fuel tank version appears to be the one with steel. Last fix was to my brothers 96  BMW 1100GS  tank which had rust pin holes at the bottom, luckily out of sight.

https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/adhesives/minor-repairs/selleys-knead-it-steel/

[Kickaha]

I’ve had success with “kneadit” std version (part of toolkit)

I did a temporary repair with a fuel tolerant version some 5 years ago, it's still in place

[Petergj]

Firstly, Merry Christmas to everyone and thank you for the the support/advice I have received to date.

As I near the completion of my 1958 A10 Golden Flash restoration, I knew I needed a replacement fuel tank as the one I have is beyond economical repair - internal and external corrosion and dented. So I ordered a replacement tank from an Indian manufacturer but via a well respected UK supplier. Some comments when the tank arrived in almost identical packaging to the photos in Dave55's post in this thread :-

Paint and chrome finish look good
Threads for the fuel taps are good
Fuel cap fits well
Looks as if the badges will fit OK

but despite the UK supplier saying the fuel tank was "exactly" what I needed, I find :-

The holes for the knee pads are 7mm further apart and appear to be a metric thread (M6?)
The studs for the fuel tank brace are 7 mm further apart and again appear to be metric
The gap between the two halves of the fuel tank to clear the frame top tube is 5 mm wider which will require some modification to the rubber buffer supports

I have yet to put liquid in the tank to check for leaks but so far given the price (compared to restoring my old tank), it is adequate/good as a starting point to "fettle".

So my question to the experts on here, the knee rubber mounting plates can be re-drilled to fit the tank but do the knee pad rubbers (65-8205/6) have the screw fixing holes already drilled or will they need to be drilled? From the photos of these parts from internet suppliers, it looks as if there are no holes in the rubbers which will be ideal and I can drill holes in the rubber to fit the modified plates.

Thanks in advance for any comments.

[limeyrob]

It used to be possible to get the rubber off the metal plate.  If you can you fix the plat to the tank with some M6 countersunk screws the tap the plate for correct cheese head screws. Tricky and could be a bit tight, 7mm is not a lot to play with.  You hay be able to use one of the holes and "move" the other one this way.

[Petergj]

Limeyrob, thanks for your comments.
I am expecting to retain one of the holes in the mounting plate and move/re-drill the other. Do you know if the new, replacement rubber pads have the mounting holes already drilled?
Thanks, Peter

[limeyrob]

I did a search and it seems some are clearly drilled, others are partly drilled.  I reckon you could fill the holes with black mastic.

[paintingsteve123]

I damaged the chrome on my 53 flash tank whilst trying to get a massive lump of hard pet seal out.
Decided to keep the originality of the bike as it use to be my dad's.
And it cost me nearly £500 to get it rechromed.
So working on that assumption you could buy 2 Indian tanks for what it cost me.

[ringding]

The tank on my Dad's A7 really needs rechroming, and I'm wrestling with the same dilemma.  I've been reading the discussion here with interest!
He'd started to look at the Indian tanks before he got ill, so I'm not averse to getting one, but like you would like to keep the originality if I can. Plus that tank survived (got dented and then repaired!) many tarmac surfing experiences with him.  I'm not sure I'm £500+ keen on keeping it original though.