A10 crankshaft and pinion

[Catz]

My first post regarding technical matters.
So i've got the oil pump off and the worm drive and in the Haynes manual it says do not lose the mild steel washer or the woodruff key.
I didn't find a woodruff key just a mangled mild steel washer as in the lower part of my picture and can't find any mention of the woodruff key in the parts diagram on the Draganfly website.
Also, to get the crankshaft free from the case do i just hit it with a soft faced mallet?

[rocker21]

no. you need to pull the gear off first then the crank will come out.

[berger]

don't hit it nooooo the key is in the shaft under the timing pinion you need a puller in the cut outs on the sides of the gear then you can get the crank out .

[JulianS]

The key is between the shaft and the pinion, you will not see it until the pinion comes off. You can see one in the photo

Avoid hitting the shaft end, easily to damaged or completely ruin the shaft. Use a puller to get the pinion off

[Catz]

Thanks a lot lads.
That's what i like about this forum, the replies are well informed and quick.

[Swarfcut]

 Now go out and buy yourself a 1/4 "Whitworth  Plug Tap and clean up those crankcase threads. They are not modern M6 threads, so only Whitworth (or 1/4 UNC) will do. Those blind holes accumulate all manner of muck and dirt and need to be cleaned.  Generally all the threads into Alloy on Engine and Gearbox for studs are Whitworth. Majority of the other threads are a fine thread referred to as "Cycle"  BSCy or CEI. Have a look in Grandad's toolbox...you might be lucky and find spanners that fit the rest of the bike.

 The mangled washer is a tab washer for that locknut. Originally it would have had a tang to fit in that groove in the crank nose. Plain washer goes between oilpump drive scroll and the timing pinion. There is a timing dot on the pinion, it's near the keyway. Heating the pinion with a hot air gun sometimes works to ease it off, otherwise it is a case of a homespun thin jaw puller if the  pesky bugger is a tight fit.

 Crankshaft (and Magneto) Hammering is a rich man's sport.

Swarfy.

[JulianS]

The tool for the job.

An MCE copy of the BSA item.

[berger]

a cheapo made in china puller i butchered and hardened the ends to get a crankshaft pinion off. it needs the legs strapping tightly together once in the grooves but does the job

[Catz]

I bought a puller from Classic Bike Shop in Redditch and though it wasn't a perfect fit i modified it and got the pinion off.
My question now is, do i follow the write up in the Haynes Book of Lies to get the crankshaft out of the right hand case?

[CheeserBeezer]

The reason the RHS is sometimes difficult to remove is because a lip develops on the end of the timing side journal where it overhangs the bearing. If you can hold the crankcase still it should be possible to twist the crank out. It is sensible to assume you won't be reusing the timing side bush, and the crank journal will probably want regrinding to round.

[Catz]

Thanks for the info, i'll give it a go.
If the crankshaft needs regrinding are you able to do that for me?

[Catz]

Got the crankshaft out, now just need to get to the sludge trap.
This must seem like old hat to a lot of members on the forum, but this is my first time working on an old Brit. I've rebuilt 3 XS1100's and 3 FJ/XJR engines so i'm not new to engine rebuilds, but i'll be a lot happier when it's all back together. Seems like a never ending process. 

[Greybeard]

I suggest removing the pistons from the conrods to save them from damage. Mark them for correct reassembly.

I use a hot air gun to loosen the grip on the gudgeon, (wrist) pins. A socket makes a mandrel. A clamp pushes the bush.

[muskrat]

G'day Catz.
These A motors are a walk in the park compared to Yammy 4's. A while back I did a KZ1300 6 cyl water cooled (6 timing chains  ) for a friend. Never again!
Mark everything so it goes back in the same place and direction.
Clean everything and post pics if your unsure of anything.
Cheers

[Catz]

Thanks for the replies lads.
So i've got one of the sludge trap plugs out and shining a light down the hole there doesn't appear to be much sludge down there. Would it be ok to clean what's in there out with something like WD40 or carb cleaner and just button it up again?