A7 Front hub offset?

[Brandis]

Wouldn't be the weekend without your Carolina Cousin getting all pathetic online.
I did a stupid thing.  I cut the spokes of a '47 front wheel without taking note of the offset of the rim to the hub.   All my other old bikes had the spokes integral with outside of the brake drum so tweaking the spokes to center was easy. 
The A7, of course, adds the drum to the outside.  I biased the hub as far away from the spline side of the crinkle hub but adding it all up, it's seriously offset.  I noticed that the front fender I got was skinny, without much skirt like the rear fender.  And to hole for the meat slicer.
Is the fender that shallow to allow the tire to be offset between the forks ?

Saturday night and the missus is baking corn bread.  Wish you were here.

[CheeserBeezer]

I'm not sure if this answers your question but I normally build wheels in situ, in which case the centre of the rim should be directly under the centre of the bottom yoke and equidistant between the fork legs.

[Brandis]

My new spokes don't adjust that far.   The spokes on one side are as short as possible and all out of thread.
Do early BSAs have shorter spokes on one side?   The stability of and spoked wheel involves lateral tension from both sides.  You can't have one side of spokes that are almost on a plane.

[Swarfcut]

 Brandis. Early A7 had identical wheels front and rear. These  are based on the crinkle style hub, differing from the later design with the front drum and spindle sleeve in one, and consequent different spoke length side to side. Rear crinkle hub for 1949 and later uses spokes of  7 29/32"  on both sides for most years, so I would expect this to be a starting point for spoke length selection in this case. Mainstream wheel builders are most likely ignorant of the subtle differences on these early wheels and reach for the A7 single sided 7" front brake set, which of course does not fit.....

 Swarfy.

[Rex]

My new spokes don't adjust that far.   The spokes on one side are as short as possible and all out of thread.
Do early BSAs have shorter spokes on one side?   The stability of and spoked wheel involves lateral tension from both sides.  You can't have one side of spokes that are almost on a plane.

Sounds like you'll be ordering another 20 spokes 10mm or so longer than those you have then.
What does "on a plane" mean? Perpendicular between hub and rim?

[muskrat]

G'day Brandis.
According to Drags https://tinyurl.com/mw79ur9r  47-48 had 67-6005 = 7,15/16" x 10g straight and 67-6007 = 8,1/8" x 10g straight.
Post a pic of your wheel as it could have been swapped by a PO.
I agree with CB, build wheel so central to forks.
Cheers

[Brandis]

So, the idea is that you need different lengths of spokes for left and right sides ?  My trusty man at Walridge has let me down.

You all will be so happy when I'm done with this project and not taking up all your time. 
Now to get an .020 undersize timing side bushing.

[CheeserBeezer]

Yes, it is often the case that the spokes are different lengths, even on wheels which seem to sit naturally in the middle, spokes can vary in length by a few mm. Even though your front and rear wheels are the same, the offset will be different so spokes from the back wheel (probably) won't suit the front.

[trevinoz]

Aren't the early wheels supposed to be interchangeable?

[Brandis]

I'm stupid, as usual.   I forgot about this.  So the rim should be offset.

[Beeza]

One more thing to consider, is that the early A7 crinkle hub differs to the later hub, in that the non splined side is smaller in diameter so to speak. Although either can be used, so long as you have the correct spokes LOL.
And a photo, left one is early A7
P/N 570256

[Swarfcut]

 Those two hubs look a little different from standard, which have the crinkle flanges pressed on to the central tube and retained in place with rivets... a  head can just be seen, and a normally visible join between the two crinkles. This is absent, as are the rivet stubs. Looks as if considerable care has been taken to improve the ensemble.

 Also early hubs have two bearing retaining rings, both with left hand threads. Later design only has one threaded retainer, on the sprocket side. I can see no thread in either, so reckon these are from the later 1954 on S/A wheel type hub.

 Swarfy.

[trevinoz]

Swarfy,I don't know anything about the early A7 crinkle hub but I do know that the later rigid hub is the same as the 1954/5 hub.

[Brandis]

It seems the wheel itself needs the offset to account for the way the spacer works. This allows the brake hub to remain when the wheel is removed. So, spokes same length.

[Beeza]

Your axle sleeve is around the wrong way too, it should be pushed in from the inner side and the larger diameter surface pushes onto the (“unretained” bearing inner race Swarfy).
Your dust cover does look correct (I may be wrong) it should be a smaller outside diameter/domed shape, to coincide with the smaller diameter Crinkle hub (non brake splined side side of the hub) but front and rear crinkle hubs should be the same.
These smaller diameter dust covers are unobtainable, so I will have to make some for my 47L/S.
There are many variants of these “crinkle”  hubs, insofar as the Gold star guys always chase the outer exposed rivets no matter what may have been, (im no goldy expert).
Swarfy, as far as I’m aware of, no A10/7 crinkle hubs had the non brake side ‘bearing retainer’.However there is the plungers, an altogether difficult beast, but a short life span, different everything including chain/brake wheel.
No doubt I’ll be informed, which I do like, INFORMATION.
Love you all.
PS I’m getting the 54 Salt race bike ready for 20/3/2023 HELL YESS.
BEEZA