New Member - 1958 A7 500 Flash (U.S. Designation)

[Magista]

Ok, before everyone chimes in, the base model A7 was designated as the "Flash" in the U.S. Now that we've gotten that out of the way...

Recently picked up my first BSA and am looking forward to learning as much as I can. I've owned plenty of old Hondas and Ducati. My current line up is the '58 A7, '73 Honda CL350, and an '08 Ducati Sport Classic Sport 1000.

BSA is brand new territory and my first British bike. It's not perfect cosmetically but will make a fun bike to putt around on. It starts from cold on first or second kick, idles well, handles great for such an old bike, and sounds lovely.

Like others here, I need a side stand. I have the lugs and will likely have my friend fabricate the stand for me. The front brake is atrocious, almost non-existent. I'll be digging into it prior to any serious rides. The rear is much better.

Front fender looks odd to me, I question if it's correct. Taillight is...limp. I'll likely swap it out for something a little more vigorous.

This may be a dumb question...my air / choke lever is on handle bar next to the throttle. Which direction is open and which is closed? Is clockwise closed, counter-clockwise open?

Thanks!

[RichardL]

Magista,

Welcome to the forum.  That's a good introduction. I have the basic '57 A7 that I'm very slowly putting together. Your bike looks great and has more potential to show. How did you source it? A local find?, eBay? Some other kind of hunt?  The 2-1/2 gallon tank on your bike is the same (I think) that I have on my A10. I notice you're in Olympia, having lived in Bellingham around 1970 I've spent a small amount of time on the peninsula. I would say both of your fenders look aftermarket, but others will know better. As for brakes, I basically tell people that mine doesn't have what other people might refer to as "brakes."  As for the side stand, that would be a good project for "Forged In Fire." Not sure our international groups gets that, but I bet you do. (I'm going to watch it right after writing this.) I find it quite easy to get my bike up on the center stand and I usually confident it's going to stay upright.

Anyway, be sure to know that most of us are eager to see your progress and more pictures

Richard L.

[Magista]

Thanks Richard.

I'm selling my Ducati and wanted a Brit bike (BSA or Norton). I've always appreciated BSAs and this one popped up locally on Craigslist so I went a took a look. $4k later I have a nice little '58 Beezer. I'm a sucker for beautiful old design and engineering. There is something very elegant about them.

It was an easier sell to the significant other than a Norton Commando. She'd rather me not have any bikes as I was in a fairly bad accident last year on my Honda. Busted my leg in three places and now have titanium rod and a bunch of screws. I'm part cyborg. I'm just now getting my confidence back while riding.

I have a hell of time getting the bike on the centerstand. My technique is likely lacking. I'll keep working on it. "Forged in Fire," I know it.

My plan for the bike is to have a nice little runner. I like the patina it currently has, so likely will not be doing any restoration at this time. It looks better in the photo than in real life (though it's not bad). The tank does have a dent on the left side. Someone, at some point, went down on it. The left pipe has a few scuffs.

The gentleman I bought it from had it about 5 years and never really rode it. He has a beautifully restored Victor 441 and a ton of dirt and trial bikes. He said he bought if from a guy in Tacoma who inherited it from his father. His dad had it as long as he can remember.

I've only been on a short ride with it but was immediately struck by how well it handled (aside from the non-existent front brake). Really good for a bike that old.

[KiwiGF]

Most find the choke on the carb doesn’t really do much, the usual operation is that the slide inside the carb is pulled up by the cable (out of airflow) eg normal warm running position is with cable tight, not loose.

[Swarfcut]

 Hi, Welcome along. Good looking bike and for once no evidence of oil drips, best check that tank!!!

 Front brake hub lever is set over center, in other words the more you pull, the less leverage is applied. The angle between cable and lever should approach 90 degrees, but never go over 90. Rear brake lever looks to be set OK. Plenty on the forum about the brakes, which are known as "Full width cast iron hub". Earlier bikes have a half width 8" brake, considered to be good, or Full Width Alloy which BSA used for just a couple of years '56/57...not so good. The contemporary A10 uses the same type of front brake as yours, but with a bigger drum.
 Fenders, tail light and headlamp mount indeed look non standard. Shocks and ride height will affect the ease of getting it on the stand, which is  always awkward to use, but there is a knack. As you get into it, you will find many of the parts interchange over the years, thanks to BSA's continued development of the range. That all changes into the 1970's, before it all went down the pan.

 Swarfy.

[JulianS]

I think the 500 "Flash" is quite rare when compared to the 650 models.

Below from the 1958 US West Coast catalogue. But I think it is the same catalogue illustration as BSA used for the 650;

[Greybeard]

 

The front fender, (mudguard in the UK) seems to have a too large diameter curve for the wheel size. It may look better if you can raise the central mounting to give an equal spacing around the tire, (tyre in the UK).

It's hard to be sure but it looks like the kickstart cotter pin might be in the wrong way round. The retaining nut should be on the top side. This brings the kickstart lever more vertical so helps to get the engine spinning.

Warning: Please search for the term 'Sludge trap' on this forum and YouTube. If you do not know that the ST has been cleaned you may be riding a Russian Roulette bike.

[BigJim]

Hi and welcome. Great to see a nice looking Bitsa. On my bike i turn the choke lever clockwise for fully open, this lifts the bit in the carb out of the way. Front brake may just need a longer cable so the arm can be set lower giving better leverage?

[Greybeard]

Front brake may just need a longer cable so the arm can be set lower giving better leverage?

Sorry BJ, I don't go along with that advice 🙄

[Topdad]

Hi and welcome to this wonderful forum which is as you will find out is  populated by like minded mentalpieces with a wealth of info. enjoy your bike,
GB you are just miffed cos you missed the brake arm being high seriously as swafcut says the full width hubs are bad even the 8" but with the activating arm there  you've not a chance ,pull the bloody thing down and look at the linnings then scroll through the posts to find out ohow to centrallise  the shoes and then look for 8" single sided front wheel and forks swap out said original piece of crap and manage to break fairly well. however engine breaking is the key !!

[a10 gf]

Thanks for fine intro, welcome.

[RichardL]

Front brake may just need a longer cable so the arm can be set lower giving better leverage?

Sorry BJ, I don't go along with that advice 🙄

Well, we're still in intro, so consider some of this as intro to our little debates (amongst friends).

GB, wanting to delay replacing shoes on my front brakes, I rotated the arm and added a strip of steel to the end of the cable as a temporary fix. It has served for several hundred miles. That reminds me, I need to change those shoes!

Richard L.

[Magista]

Thank you for the warm welcome and tips.

1. Agreed, the front fender always looked off to me. It does not follow the curve of the tire as it should. Thank you for confirming.
2. Oil tank and pump operates as it should and has had a fresh change.
3. I will check the sludge trap. I would imagine it being fine as the PO knows his BSAs...though that's not a guarantee.
4. I'm ok without front brake but would like to get it operating as well as possible.
5. Will check the centerstand and I have a lower lug coming for a side-stand. I'll likely have my friend (custom bike builder) make or modify an existing one for me as prices, for whatever reason, are silly.

I'm very pleased to have my first BSA and am looking forward to riding. I live in the Pacific Northwest and we have absolutely gorgeous secondary roads. Granted, it's a short riding season but well worth it.

[Greybeard]

I will check the sludge trap. I would imagine it being fine as the PO knows his BSAs...though that's not a guarantee.

The sludge trap is in the centre of the crankshaft so not checkable without tearing, (stripping in the UK 😜) down the engine down. It's a horrible prospect for someone who's just bought a bike but the potential consequences of having an even partially blocked sludge trap are even more horrible.

The oil supply to the big ends and drive side crankshaft bearing passes through the centre of the crankshaft where a centrifugal filter, traps loose particles from the oil. Eventually these particles form a solid blockage of sludge for the oil.

I've discovered that some people wrongly think the filter in the oil tank, which should also be cleaned, is the sludge trap.

Here is one of many videos about this issue:
https://youtu.be/5VH1vwK5_k4

[Greybeard]

Hey Magista, this is Sept 2022 previewed.

You rotter! 😁