Grease Nipples

[Sav]

Any experts on nipples here? (the ones on the early BSA's)

I've been lax on my Empire Star rigid forks and have been trying to use my grease gun but the gun does not latch onto the nipples, grease everywhere but where I want it.

I've been googling nipples (get some interesting 'Chapel hat peg' results!) and it would seem the early British (imperial?) ones don't latch.

I thought about changing the nipples to modern ones but don't really want bright shiny nipples on dodgy old threads in the patina of the old bike (I'm fussy)

Anyone advise as to how I can squirt grease into the Emp's nipples?

Do I need one of these for my gun https://lubetec.co.uk/products/straight-push-in-fitting-nickel-plated-brass?_pos=2&_sid=703010757&_ss=r&variant=12148886601843

I looked at push fit guns but am totally confused as to whether push fit describes the gun or the nipple it fits.

Sage advice appreciated

[Bsareg]

You just need the correct pump. It's brass, just over an inch in diameter, around 4 inches in length and the body's in two pieces. Often seen at autojumbles.

[Rex]

Or change out the nipples (temporarily or permanently, depending how much you appreciate originality) for the later type and use a pressure grease gun.
Nipples are either 1/4 BSF or 1/4 BSCy, the threads are too alike to call.

[Angus]

I too have the same problem but on the Norton (not going don the notrun route as she runs beautifully). The plunger nipples are this old sort. I did try a temporary replacement with new sort but still got grease everywhere and not sign in the plungers. Sav if you find a solutions that works please post it.

[BSA_54A10]

The strait conical grese nipples need a Teciment type grease gun which seals because you push the end of the gun hard to pump the grease
I fit standard Zerk fittings that latch on
Now a word to the wise here
BSA manuals say 1 or 2 strokes for greasing and that is for a Teciment type gun
A single stroke on a standard 12" long lever type gun is abut 10 teciment strokes
Not a big problem on forks, just messy but a disaster if you overgrease a brake spindle or wheel hub as greasy brakes are even less effective than standard BSA brakes .

[Rex]

Laughable when you find a wheel hub with about a pound of dried grease filling the central cavity, or a headstock with lumps of grease filling the frame tubing.
Must have taken some time using the little brass toolkit-supplied gun.

[Sav]

Thanks guys, I am amazed that it it so confusing and hard to find the right connector for the old nipples.

[BSA_54A10]

Laughable when you find a wheel hub with about a pound of dried grease filling the central cavity, or a headstock with lumps of grease filling the frame tubing.
Must have taken some time using the little brass toolkit-supplied gun.

For steering heads I slip a soft drink can between the upper & lower races so it blocks off open frame holes
And yes I have stood there and pumped the frame full of grease wondering why it was not coming out the bearing.

Then don't forget the people who pack everything ful of grease befor they assemble them.

[RichardL]

Having just rebuilt my front brake, I found myself wishing I'd greased it before reassembly. I have zerk fittings and the cheapo coupler I had just shot all the grease between the coupler and the nipples. Decided to upgrade, then noticed that the good couplers have levers that made me wonder if one could reach past the spokes. Not wanting to ride to the auto parts store with questionable lubrication, I cobbled together a replica of the spoke pattern to take with me to the store, by car, of course. Well, the new coupler wasn't cheap, but works a treat. Not the slightest sign of leakage around the nipple. Maybe it works too good, as I'm now worried Rex and Trevor will have at me for pumping full my front hub and headstock. Speaking of headstock, Coater recently asked whether pumping in the grease would tend to fill the frame. Andrew (CheezerBeezer) clarified that there is no path for grease to enter the frame. So, Trevor, why was yours pourous to grease?

Richard L.

[BSA_54A10]

Because I am riding a single with a single down tube
These are not sealed off .
The duplex loop frames have the front down tubes welded onto the sides of the steering tube
The forged steering headstock fitting are hollow where the tubes braize in   .

[RichardL]

Aah! Thanks for the enlightenment, Trevor.

Richard L.

[Greybeard]

A trick to seal the connection between grease gun and nipple is to put a piece of rag over the nipple before applying the gun. I've done it many times and it works.

PS. This is for the push on type, not the ones that the gun latches on to.

[Sakura]

What you need is a fitting for the grease gun with a taper almost to a point with a tiny hole in it. You push this into the nipple, displacing the ball seal and the taper forms a seal. They are commercially obtainable, do your own research, unless someone on here knows of a source.

[RichardL]

Sakura,

For me, the ship has sailed and is in a fair wind. Anyway, I'm not sure if you are referring to zerk or cone fittings, maybe both. I've seen those needle fillers and can't imagine that being as easy as the clamping type I bought for zerks, just cheaper.

Richard L.

[Sakura]

Richard L,
Definitely not as easy as zerk but if you want to keep the original push on type nipple the cone is the only type that really works.