Tools, spanners, whitworth

[Rex]

because untill very recient times there were a lot of Whitworth on push bikes.

That ties in with my post further up the thread.
So where were all these Whit threads on older pushbikes?

[Kickaha]

If you use socket head bolts into alloy it is vital that you put big washers under them to spread the load or you will collapse the metal into the hole or the head will enlarge the hole & eventually pull through .

I have not ever done that nor have I ever had a problem with it happening, it that was the case then surely screws with no washer would do the same ?

[Big_Ben]

TBH I'm a fan of alien heads. I understand the rationale behind the posts, and it's clearly a wide spread opinion on the forum, but is it not simply a case that some people have been over tightening the fixings.

I get that the socket head enables higher torque, but is that not blaming the tool for the mistake of the mechanic?

[Greybeard]

TBH I'm a fan of alien heads. I understand the rationale behind the posts, and it's clearly a wide spread opinion on the forum, but is it not simply a case that some people have been over tightening the fixings.

I get that the socket head enables higher torque, but is that not blaming the tool for the mistake of the mechanic?

You are right. Idiots think that they'll cure a leak by hanging off the end of an Allen key. My suggestion if people want cap heads was to use a screwdriver handle with a hex bit.

[Big_Ben]

Good suggestion.

I'd better pack by impact driver away then...

 

[BSA_54A10]

TBH I'm a fan of alien heads. I understand the rationale behind the posts, and it's clearly a wide spread opinion on the forum, but is it not simply a case that some people have been over tightening the fixings.

I get that the socket head enables higher torque, but is that not blaming the tool for the mistake of the mechanic?

The problem Poppy is the surface area under the head on Allan screws is less than 1/2 that of the Phillisters that BSA used
This means that even when properly torqued an allan bolt will cause the hole to collapse onto itself and distort
That is why you must put washers under the heads
Down side is now days most washers have a larger hole so getting some that are a good fit is difficult
I can always tell a cover that has been held in with Allan screws
And I use them on my tin primary covers but again with a large washer undrneath .

[Sluggo]

I too like socket head, AKA: Allen.  The solution is shop for washers in different specs. Here in the US there is what is called "AN" Washers, smaller OD and tighter fit to a fastener.. I also buy whats called "Fender washers" which are overly large and spread the load to a much bigger area. Good for ,,,,,,,,,,,wait for it..Fenders! and other sheet metal that tends to crack or pull thru.
I tend to avoid split washers, but I do have them, Star washers are useful, small serrations help grab,  Fasterners are a topic in itself. As well as locking mechanisms.  Lock nuts pinch nuts, etc... In aviation, everything is secured, whether a cotter key, lock nut, Or safety wire. 
Theres many vendors online, and regionally here in the US is a company called "Fastenal" who deal with industrial grade fasterners of all types.

Myself?  I love stainless! So, unless its a full restoration, I tend to replace a lot of stuff with Stainless.  Many of the bolts (Coarse or fine thread) has markings on the top and most retailed are grade 2, soft, But you can look for higher strength for certain applications but gets expensive.

So, heres something I started doing for stainless bolts, Since they have hash marks or numbers, not attractive. But take some tool stock tubing in 1/4" 5/16", 3/8" etc etc ID.  Tap it and alter it to suit.  If you dont have a lathe, you can do it in a drill press, or by hand with a bench grinder, But once setup you can do a fairly large quantity relatively quickly,, But using a grinding stone, you face off the lettering and then round or dome the bolt head leaving the flats on the sides for wrench or socket.
This more closely resembles many factory Bolt heads.

Once shaped, Polish them. Stainless is lovely and when your (Non stock) bike is done, all those beautiful exposed bolts and fasteners really set it off, especially against shiny black paint or powder coating.

I also like, in certain situations, Domed head nuts,, again, in stainless, use a AN washer or a regular sized stainless and you start looking like you might know what you are doing.

I also have a couple bags of plastic-teflon washers.  I use these under painted fenders followed by a appropriate stainless washer.  This helps on Stainless, chrome and painted fenders, both for cracking and not digging into the paint. ALWAYS make sure your paint is fully cured before tightening down, as it can bulge or wrinkle.

[Kickaha]

The solution is shop for washers in different specs. Here in the US there is what is called "AN" Washers, smaller OD and tighter fit to a fastener..

They also come in different thicknesses, I'm actually getting shot of a lot of Whitworth bolts and using AN bolts for my A10 rebuild because you can buy them by shank length so I can spec them so nothing is bearing on the threaded portion of the bolt

[Colsbeeza]

Poppy, I keep a running tally of spanners specific to my 1960 GF S/A and any notes I feel I might need to refer to on future maintenance. Many spanners are common to pre-unit. It certainly gives an idea of the range of spanners I have collected.
Col

[Rex]

I'm actually getting shot of a lot of Whitworth bolts and using AN bolts for my A10 rebuild because you can buy them by shank length so I can spec them so nothing is bearing on the threaded portion of the bolt

So just like the original BSA-fitted Imperial bolts then?
Mixing threadforms/spanner sizes on a bike is a no-no for me.  I like to keep it simple with only one set of tools needed.

[groily]

the range of spanners I have collected.

Funny you mentioning 25/32nd AF Col. 
I use one too now and then - a cranked ring, American 'Tru-Fit' brand.  (Mind you, 20mm I think it is will often do) and I use 19mm or 3/4 AF interchangeably depending on the angle of dangle needed.
To Rex' point, I do try  . . . but fail - too often . . .  Wish I was fastidious enough, but stuff creeps in over the years, flats have to be filed to be something else . . . or new bits made to replace fubarred ones, all the usual pathetic excuses!