Musky's Plunger rebuild.

[muskrat]

G'day SHM.
I've used it for many many years on head gaskets. Especially on the 14:1 A7SS racer. Never had a blow out. Yes I anneal the gasket first, this may be the 3rd time it as been re-used.

https://tinyurl.com/37c4rmbe
• Helps dissipate heat, prevents overheating of gaskets and improves thermal transmission. • Most common applications are exhaust manifold gaskets and cylinder head shim gaskets. • Can be used on new multi-layer gaskets when indicated . • Contains metallic copper to help improve thermal transfer and eliminate heat build-up. • Remains soft without drying to allow repositioning of the gasket. • Operating temperature from -45 ° C to + 260 ° C. • Resistant to liquids commonly used in the workshop, including gasoline • Fills application surface imperfections • Typical applications are engine head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, turbocharger flanges, carburetor gaskets.

I'm trying a cheaper version this time (only 7.5:1 in this motor). Dupli-Color Aerosol Spray Copper Gasket Cement 340g .
You can see by the pics the outside 4 head bolt holes have been moved outwards by 1/2 a hole for the through studs. Lani at Copper gaskets unlimited made me gaskets with ears to suit.

[Rex]

There used to be a varnish-like substance (Wellseal if I recall correctly - came in a small bottle) that one could paint onto gaskets. Often used on head gaskets. Dunno if it's still obtainable. Have some somewhere but never think to use it.

Wellseal is still available and it's still recommended when fitting Sunbeam S7/8 head gaskets.
Comes in a tube now and is still one of the better gasket goos.

[Jules]

nice job Musky, can you explain/show me a bit more information/pics about your piston ring compressor?? I'm trying to work out how you fit it to confidently know the rings are fully compressed, and also how you remove it after the barrels are fully past the pistons...cheers

[muskrat]

G'day Jules.
Very simple mate. Cut a piece off a 90mm poly pipe about 1,1/4" long, slit it and wrap it around your piston and mark where it overlaps, cut the overlap plus 1/4" off, smooth off all edges. Lightly oil the rings and inside of the poly, ensure the rings are in position (no gaps over the pins or fore an aft). Use a 75mm hose clamp to compress the lot putting the gap of the poly at the rear and the screwy bit of the hose clamp at the front. Tighten the clamp till it won't spin on the piston and then back off 1/2 a turn till it just can spin. Lower the barrels on slowly and square. You can see at the gap in the poly once your down past the oil ring. Now undo the clamp fully and pull it out (I move it up over the barrel skirt first, just incase), then the poly can be flexed off the piston up onto the skirt and pulled off. Refer to pic #72.
Cheers

[Jules]

got it, I can see it now, thanks Musky....

[WozzA]

I used Musky's method years ago....  it works well..   

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
I threw the new Premier 932 on last week and did a quick pilot/idle adjustment. Did 15 minutes around town then checked the timing. All good. A couple of runs up Scenic hill to bed her in. I was going to tune the main & needle on Sunday but was too hungover
Tonight I checked the fuel height in the carb. In the past I've had trouble getting the fuel height right and not flood. The slight downdraft of an alloy head makes it difficult. The book says 170 to 240 thou" below the gasket (body/bowl), 240 was as high as it would go.
I hooked up my test tool (bowl bung with 1/4" hose spear) to the bowl ant turned the fuel on. Bl@@dy perfect at 240.
Hope to get out this w/end to get her tuned right.
Cheers

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas. I'm back!
It's been a while, I haven't been riding her much ue to the buggered hip.
To fill a bit of a gap https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=13293.2685 reply # 2688 new rockerbox fitted and inlet valve guides got seals.
Not much to do in the shed today (see next installment in "what did you do to your bike today) so I took her for a spin to warm her up and give her the 1st oil change at about 150 miles. Dropped the sump plate and filter off. Was what I expected. Bugger all on the filter I only use Permatex #3 on gaskets so no gasket stuff and only one or two tiny bits of glitter. Very happy. Now for the next 500 miles.
Cheers

[Colsbeeza]

Musky,
That is brilliant - can't believe so little muck on the screen. rocked my confidence in my own skills.
Col

[Sakura]

I actually work part time for a UK classic bike dealer plus my own bikes and yet I still like reading the detail in these posts, despite working on the whole range of classics, 1914 to 1974. Bus man's holiday or just a sad b'strd?

[muskrat]

G'day Sakura.
I must be a masochist as I went back to page 1 and read it all again!
Cheers

[Sakura]

Placed condoms on the rods and was now able to use the kick lever to spin her over a lot quicker. Oil kept flowing round and round.

Hi Musky,
I use protective stretch netting over rods to protect them from dings. It came with something I bought. Obviously needs to be large enough to keep the mesh closed up for maximum protection.

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
I had my first decent ride over the weekend. Only 140Km each way and 6 weeks after total left hip replacement! Camped in a tent.
She don't like starting from cold (under 5C) so I'll look for a choke/cable and lever (never had this trouble down the coast).
After coming down the hill and sitting at the control tent she just sat there idling for 4-5 minutes and took off like a rabbit.
Oh I luv the new premier 932 carb ( yes 932 on an A7  ).
Took 3 kicks in the morning (more than I did!) and flew up the hill (ok 2nd in a few spots). Sat on 60-70 mph the whole way home and sat there idling while I opened the gate and shed. I love my 1951 A7 plunger.
Cheers