Small vintage lathes

[Greybeard]

I do have one of those guages.

I was just playing when I had a half hour to myself I just tickled up a small parting blade without setting the angles correctly. Next time I'll grind the tool to the correct angle.

What I was testing was whether I could get the cut to align with the previous cut by use of the thread indicator.

[RichardL]

And, it looks like you succeeded. I meant to advise that you test the feel of the half-nut lever a few times as the thread dial reaches the line, so you know you've hit the right spot. I bet you already figured that out.

Richard L.

[Greybeard]

And, it looks like you succeeded.

Thanks Bud.

I meant to advise that you test the feel of the half-nut lever a few times as the thread dial reaches the line, so you know you've hit the right spot. I bet you already figured that out.

I wait until the number gets to the mark* and then firmly hold the half-nut lever down until the threads engage.

*There is no mark; I just have to decide on a nominal start position.

[Slash]

My 1912 Drummond

[Greybeard]

My 1912 Drummond

Superb! Only 110 years young 👌

[terryg]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/414166220820606/

Here’s a Drummond (project) for sale for anyone interested.

[Greybeard]

What's going on here then? 🤔

[RichardL]

First, I'd say test fitting the cap without requiring you to reposition it in the chuck if it needs more turning. Second, it seems the chuck jaws are bumping into the cover and preventing the test. If neither of those are correct, maybe you are setting up to spin the whole bike on the lathe while gripping it at the cap. It is a gap-bed, isn't it? 

Oh, one more, maybe the stem on the backside is hitting the chain.

Richard L.

[Greybeard]

Very happy boy 😁
https://youtu.be/wh_P5gvMs6M

There is now twice as much thread length as the original. It's not close to the chain BTW.

[Greybeard]

First, I'd say test fitting the cap without requiring you to reposition it in the chuck if it needs more turning. Second, it seems the chuck jaws are bumping into the cover and preventing the test. If neither of those are correct, maybe you are setting up to spin the whole bike on the lathe while gripping it at the cap. It is a gap-bed, isn't it? 

Oh, one more, maybe the stem on the backside is hitting the chain.

Richard L.

I didn't want to loose the thread, as it were, by taking the job out of the chuck; so the mountain had to come to Muhammad. There was enough thread to test it in the case hole.

[RichardL]

So, I was right with my first guess. Send prize via Paypal. I belueve you already have the address.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

GB,

I'm sure you recall my posts about making the larger dial for my compound rest. I wonder if you couldn't notch the grip similar to the sawtooth method used for scribing the graticule. Granted, it would take several carriage strokes at each notch.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

I just saw your post in the other thread and noticed the knurling, so, forget the previous, obviously.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

 What I'm showing here is, so far, lathe play that hasn't worked. If it worked, I think I would've put it in my fork leg repair topic.

Anyway, it's about trying to come up with a method that reforms or cleans up the insdes of fork legs. (Probably inspired by Groily.) For just rust, I suppose a hone is enough. I was trying to see if minor dings could be forced out. The first thing I did was make a mandrel the OD of the bottom bushing. The mandrel is diven by a pipe plug into which I turned a shabby 3/4"-10 thread for all-thread rod. The rest is, kind'a, in the video at the link (and the description there).

https://youtu.be/yXWhhAyeSKY

Richard L.

[RichardL]

I think my lathe is really too small for this.