Small vintage lathes

[RichardL]

Oh, about the belt, I just saw that on a drum turning video. It's intended to reduce chatter, but I haven't actually tried it yet.

Richard L.

[Alex kettle]

Looks good Richard
👍🏻


Greybeard I know your not a million miles away from me and if there is anyone else who would be interested in bits for turning,  I can get hold of off cuts of ali, stainless, mild steel, chromex all of various diameters even the odd bit of phoze bronze for FREE but you would have to collect from Leicester. It’s sacrilege what goes to the scrap at work but we end up with so many bits and off cuts we just can’t keep it all.  Lots of Ali billet too of various sizes if any one has a mill.
 If anyone wants anything send me a message and I’ll try and sort something 👍🏻

[RichardL]

Blasted Atlantic Ocean!

[BagONails]

Richard, that certainly is a vintage set up you have there, just be wary of that flat belt whipping around by your left ear when you become engrossed in your work

I found it a bit tricky to see your exact set up what with the wing mirror in the shot and all but I will say that your clock appears to be running at about a thirty degree angle off vertical?  If so then you will be getting a somewhat false reading and the run-out will be worse than .002"...you need to always have the plunger axis of the clock angled normal or as close as possible to 90 degrees to the surface you are checking.  In this case you really need a finger style instrument which you may not have so just be aware the run-out is being made to look better than it actually is.  Yes +/- 0.001" is 0.002" TIR (Total Indicated Reading).

Some closer shots of your set up and tools in use would enable us to advise further if you'd like any further input regarding finish etc?

Alex, that's a very kind offer, I only wish you were closer!

[Greybeard]

Looks good Richard
👍🏻


Greybeard I know your not a million miles away from me and if there is anyone else who would be interested in bits for turning,  I can get hold of off cuts of ali, stainless, mild steel, chromex all of various diameters even the odd bit of phoze bronze for FREE but you would have to collect from Leicester. It’s sacrilege what goes to the scrap at work but we end up with so many bits and off cuts we just can’t keep it all.  Lots of Ali billet too of various sizes if any one has a mill.
 If anyone wants anything send me a message and I’ll try and sort something 👍🏻

Alex, if I had the lathe here and set up I would be very glad to have material to mangle. It might be a while before I'm in a position to use the old Myford. Many thanks for the offer but at the moment I will decline.
Leicester is only 35 miles from me. How about arranging a meet up on our BSA's?

[RichardL]

BagO,

Yes, of course! Thanks for pointing that out. I should have thought of it, but was obviously blinded by my desire to get going. I can calculate the actual movement and will include a measurement off the face of the race in addition to that off of its corner.

Richard L.

[KiwiGF]

Mine is similar and recently upgraded to qc post and carbide tipped tools, much easier (for me)

[BagONails]

Richard, no worries, it never pays to rush into these things, you can take the metal off a lot easier than you can put it back!

Interested in your tool post there Kiwi. Just wondering if that is your normal clamped position for the handle?  Might be worth looking at indexing that around so its in the 4 o'clock position when tight as opposed to 8 o'clock as this will keep it out of your way and be a bit safer. Also works better for you unless you're left handed maybe?

Can you tell me what center height your lathe is above the bed and what number tool post you went for?  Did it all fit as per their dimensions or did you have any issues?  Mine is on the cusp as my center height is 8 inches but there is quite a big price step up to the next size.

I like the idea of these preset tool blocks as (if you have access to a milling machine) you can make your own and have a whole fleet of them all set up ready to grab when you need one.

Cheers
Bago

[RichardL]

Bago,

Yes, I've decided I must completely cool my jets until I'm sure the lathe is properly aligned. I've already skimmed off some of the iron, but pretty confident it won't be a problem when I can get serious. I think the biggest problem with alignment is that the headstock sits on custom risers with good v-grooves in the bottom, but no v-rails at the top, leaving the headstock to move around on top until robustly tightened. I need to buy an alignment bar that fits between the tapers. Also, considering returning the lathe to original 9" after the drum is turned, as I think it will not clear a true 4-1/2" to the bed.

Richard L.

[KiwiGF]

Richard, no worries, it never pays to rush into these things, you can take the metal off a lot easier than you can put it back!

Interested in your tool post there Kiwi. Just wondering if that is your normal clamped position for the handle?  Might be worth looking at indexing that around so its in the 4 o'clock position when tight as opposed to 8 o'clock as this will keep it out of your way and be a bit safer. Also works better for you unless you're left handed maybe?

Can you tell me what center height your lathe is above the bed and what number tool post you went for?  Did it all fit as per their dimensions or did you have any issues?  Mine is on the cusp as my center height is 8 inches but there is quite a big price step up to the next size.

I like the idea of these preset tool blocks as (if you have access to a milling machine) you can make your own and have a whole fleet of them all set up ready to grab when you need one.

Cheers
Bago

Good point on the handle position, its not got in the way yet but yes it would be better further away from the chuck, I will try to move its position.

The gc post is “axa” size, I read up on forums and this was recommended for the southbend model A 9”, but was marginal for the myford equivalent, so yes one has to be a bit careful on selection. I think “axa” is actually a term used by a major usa supplier but the chinese knock offs (like I bought) use the same dimensions and size terminology.

How do I measure the lathe height? Do you mean centre of chuck to top of (top) slide?

[BagONails]

Kiwi, yes by center height I meant the 'swing' which if you're a Pom means the maximum radius workpiece you can accommodate between the headstock spindle axis/tailstock center and the lathe bed whereas if you hail from the other side of the Atlantic tends to refer to the maximum diameter workpiece.

I'm not sure where the Antipodes sit in this terminology mash up but I assume your 9" machine can turn a max 9" workpiece judging from the pics? If so then 4 1/2" center height whereas mine is 16" swing or 8" center height but I don't mean to show off!

Anyhow I think you've answered my question, thanks, must have another look through all the dimensions.

[berger]

richard you could possibly get someone you know with a set up lathe to turn you a bar up between centres and then put your centres in the headstock mandrel and tailstock .put the clock on the tool post or saddle and travel along the bar and make adjustments. this is the one my brother made for me to set mine up. mine will never be perfect because of its age and does turn a taper on anything longer than 6inch. note to self don't let things go rusty

[BagONails]

Yes, I've decided I must completely cool my jets until I'm sure the lathe is properly aligned. 

Sounds like a wise move.  It needs to be carefully set up with a known accurate parallel test bar gripped in the chuck and clocked along its length from the tool post by winding the carriage along the bed, both along the top on theoretical center line checking for rise or fall i.e. the head is pointing at the sky or the floor (exaggerating) and then along the side to check left and right. Both these errors separately or combined will result in turning a taper into your work piece. Double check by turning  say a 12" long test part and checking diameters along its length.  Once the headstock is set true and fixed in place then you need to align your tailstock to it. This is more difficult to do. Simply you could put a centre into each and bring the points together which will give you a visual but not very accurate idea of any mismatch in alignment or height. Best way is to arrange to clock one from the other but this will entail some way of mounting a clock so it can be rotated around the opposite centre. Again turning a test piece will confirm you have everything set true and in line.  Fun times!   

Its a good idea to do these checks before working on any valuable and hard to replace work pieces...

I see Mr Berger has beaten me to it while I was typing but will post anyway hopefully we are all in agreement and this helps you.

[RichardL]

Guys,

Thanks for the good pre-coffee (where I am) advice. I'm looking at the alignment bars available on eBay. Figuring on the type with Morse taper for headstock and tailstock. If I'm correct, turning the type with two shoulders is more of a test of alignment than an alignment aid. Is that correct. Anyway, until I have a bar, no more turning.

Richard L.

[KiwiGF]

Kiwi, yes by center height I meant the 'swing' which if you're a Pom means the maximum radius workpiece you can accommodate between the headstock spindle axis/tailstock center and the lathe bed whereas if you hail from the other side of the Atlantic tends to refer to the maximum diameter workpiece.

I'm not sure where the Antipodes sit in this terminology mash up but I assume your 9" machine can turn a max 9" workpiece judging from the pics? If so then 4 1/2" center height whereas mine is 16" swing or 8" center height but I don't mean to show off!

Anyhow I think you've answered my question, thanks, must have another look through all the dimensions.

I’m a brit living in nz so lets just say I’m “confused” by all the terminology, there is a big american influence on language over here tho.

It might be “aloris” who started the “axa” type terminology, see link, but most diy lathe owners will get a chinese knock off for a fraction of the price (from Banggood, aliexpress, ebay etc), for your lathe I suspect you will be looking at bxa or bigger, or maybe just buy one to suit the tool holder size you use? the axa tool holders I bought take 12mm (just) but I guess you would want 20mm or even bigger?

I have noticed that the pre-settable adjuster system (a knurled nut) on the axa does not lift the tool holder up high enough for the boring tool holders (which “rotate” the carbide bits downwards a bit), so I have to set into position manually (higher up) on the “wedge” each use, so I guess I could use a bxa, possibly, but that would look a bit big on my lathe, and it”s more important to be sure the tool height can be set low enough....cos if you can’t that do that you have start using non std tool holders.

Anyway, rather than try to work out all the dimensions I ended up just buying what others bought, the package of one axa post, 3 tool holders and 7 tools with carbide bits was was cheap enough, 200nzd delivered from memory.


https://www.aloris.com/Aloris-super-precision-tool-post

Edit: yes the 9A has a 9” nominal swing, 4 1/2 height above the bed, not that I have measured it.