Small vintage lathes

[RichardL]

That brand new lathe you were using in training school is probably the same year model as mine. 1941     I did do some reading in the book that's visible in one of the photos. I didn't have the reference rod they showed in the book, so, for now, winging it. I'm sure it still needs some adjustment, but pretty confident (oh, that foolish confidence again!) that tightening has not caused damage beyond any that might have already been there. I think final alignment is going to be trickier than some, because the headstock and tail stock are both on risers, leading to a 9 becoming a 10-1/2. I didn't even notice the risers until I went to mount the headstock.

I'm going to change gears (figuratively) in the next post.

Richard L.

[RichardL]

This may be the last I time I hijack GB's (your) original thread that inspired me to take the lathe leap. I am very much looking forward to GB (you) getting that Myford home and bringing us along as it moves forward. But now, like Jean Valjean, a new lathe life must begin and, therefore, a new topic. The South Bend is virtually all assembled (if not fully aligned) and the first ceremonial turning has occurred. Learned how to adjust leather belt length using  "alligator" belt hinges (included with the extras). I've set the lathe on two dollies that will allow it to be mobile. I'll anchor the dollies to the wall to prevent wobble on the wheels.

OK, you're probably sick of reading, but read this, please. I really appreciate having people/friends with whom to share this little story, even if I have to bore them to tears to do so.

Richard L.

[Greybeard]

Richard, this thread seems to be a good place to discuss lathes so don't worry about posting here. How about I change the topic title to a more general one?

I will not be able to use my sisters lathe until/unless I move house and get a larger space to do stuff. If you are holding your breath for news of my progress, maybe you should relax for a while.

[Butch (cb)]

Richard, this thread seems to be a good place to discuss lathes so don't worry about posting here. How about I change the topic title to a more general one?

I'd go with - 'Lathe Envy'

[Rex]

I remember years ago there were lots of old South Bend lathes around, usually the "heavy ten" and "light ten" models. No idea if they were official S-B names or not.
Apparently most were part of the Lend-Lease (or is it Lease-Lend?) scheme, which, given that the Arctic Convoys were exporting British machine tools to the USSR, seems strange.

[chaterlea25]

That brand new lathe you were using in training school is probably the same year model as mine. 1941

Oi Richard !!*conf2*
I might feel that old but actually a bit younger 

That lathe did not have the Norton gearbox as yours has, never the less I used the life out of it often staying after work to make bits
It had a set of change wheels, one of which I pinched to repair a 1927 BSA cam wheel  that had broken teeth. In the days before tipped tools I clamped a drill with a small grindstone in the tool post to cut down a B31 crank gear for the same engine
How come I can remember that over 40 years ago and I can't remember what I had for tea 

Did the "boat" for the tool post come with the lathe? I could not see it in the pics

When its time for some upgrades ??? a quick change toolpost ? next a 3 phase motor with VFD speed control 

John

[RichardL]

John,

If by "boat" you mean the large dished washer and the chord-shaped wedge, yes those came with the lathe. I will let the money dust settle before more lathe investment. No need to cause alarm in the house.

As I mentioned before, I think the headstock and tailstock risers are going to create some challenge for good alignment. The headstock just sits on the flat riser with no V-ridge to fit into the V-channel in the headstock. It seems that maintaining alignment will depend on tightening really tight.

Richard L.

[olev]

Interesting, since i bought a small mill a couple of years ago, its been
Mill - 80%
Lathe - 20%
Love my mill even though the extras and tools are exxy.
Cheers

[KiwiGF]

That brand new lathe you were using in training school is probably the same year model as mine. 1941

Oi Richard !!*conf2*
I might feel that old but actually a bit younger 

That lathe did not have the Norton gearbox as yours has, never the less I used the life out of it often staying after work to make bits
It had a set of change wheels, one of which I pinched to repair a 1927 BSA cam wheel  that had broken teeth. In the days before tipped tools I clamped a drill with a small grindstone in the tool post to cut down a B31 crank gear for the same engine
How come I can remember that over 40 years ago and I can't remember what I had for tea 

Did the "boat" for the tool post come with the lathe? I could not see it in the pics

When its time for some upgrades ??? a quick change toolpost ? next a 3 phase motor with VFD speed control 

John

The “axa” qc posts are pretty cheap on Banggood aliexpress etc so sre the tool holders and carbide bits

[RichardL]

Well, I'm into my first adventure with an actual important part using my new old lathe, specifically, skimming my Ariel rear hub mounted in a 4-jaw chuck. Never having used a 4-jaw chuck before, I've been teaching myself the ins and outs (figuratively and literally) of trying to get centered. I am at about 0.002" runout and, at this point, every new adjustment makes it worse. Yes, I've put the cart before the horse (again), because I could have studied up  on the technique or watched a bunch of YouTube videos, which I plan to do. My question here is not "what's the best way to do it," but, do you think 0.002" is close enough for a brake drum? If you say, "not close enough," I'm going to hit the books (so-to-speak). If you want to suggest some great reference, that would be very welcome. I bet the first piece of advice I get here is "patience."

I'm heading to the store now so that someone might be kind enough to respond by the time I'm back.

Thanks, in advance.

Richard L
 

[Rex]

I'd want it less than 2 thou personally. Nothing worse than a pulsating brake pedal...

[Greybeard]

The books I scored off eBay arrived. They are all in very good order. My main 'want', The Amateur's Lathe by L H Sparey is a hardback, complete with its dust cover. It was signed by the first owner in 1948. Although the pages are a bit cream looking with age they are clean. I'm well pleased!

I am frustrated that I am not able to start buggering up pieces of metal.

[chaterlea25]

Richard
How are you holding the hub in the lathe ?
You need to hold it using the bearing housings
A suggestion would be to turn a plug  that's a tight push fit on the brake side bearing bore with a centre drilling  on the outer face.
Then chuck up and turn  another piece of metal to bearing hub size, push the hub onto the part in the chuck and bring the tailstock up against the centre in the other plug
That way any turning of the drum will be 100% concentric with the wheel bearings
BUT Then  any distortion of the drum when the spokes are tensioned  will ruin all your work 
Its a better all round job to true the drum when the wheel is built

When I go to turn new brake linings to size, I pack a 20 thou shim either side of the brake cam then tightly wire the shoes together on the brake plate, I turn a stub to fit the spindle hole in the lathe drilling and tapping the end for a bolt and clamping washer. turn at a slow speed with a sharp carbide tool wearing a good face mask
This way the brake plate can be taken off to trial fit in the wheel drum and replaced with 100% accuracy

John

[BagONails]

Richard
How are you holding the hub in the lathe ?
You need to hold it using the bearing housings
A suggestion would be to turn a plug  that's a tight push fit on the brake side bearing bore with a centre drilling  on the outer face.
Then chuck up and turn  another piece of metal to bearing hub size, push the hub onto the part in the chuck and bring the tailstock up against the centre in the other plug
That way any turning of the drum will be 100% concentric with the wheel bearings
BUT Then  any distortion of the drum when the spokes are tensioned  will ruin all your work 
Its a better all round job to true the drum when the wheel is built

When I go to turn new brake linings to size, I pack a 20 thou shim either side of the brake cam then tightly wire the shoes together on the brake plate, I turn a stub to fit the spindle hole in the lathe drilling and tapping the end for a bolt and clamping washer. turn at a slow speed with a sharp carbide tool wearing a good face mask
This way the brake plate can be taken off to trial fit in the wheel drum and replaced with 100% accuracy

John

Good advice from John there, although you need a sizable machine to swing the whole wheel.

Another approach might be to indicate or "clock" on the the bearing bores if possible and get these running as close to zero run-out as you can. .002" = about 0.050mm which is too much I would say. I can generally achieve 0.010/0.020 mm TIR  (i.e. under 5 tenths in your language Richard) in a 4 jaw but of course you may be seeing the error that already exists in the part i.e. out of round condition. Another reason why locating or clocking off the bearing bores is preferred.

Try to avoid over clamping the hub/drum as this will distort the braking surface so after you've machined it true it will go 'square' when you undo the chuck!  Remember to check run-out in X and Y directions also.

[RichardL]

Gents,

Very good advice. That regarding turning the linings is still in time to keep me from doing it wrong. As for how I chuck-up the hub, right or wrong, that ship has sailed (is sailing?) and some cleanup is done, but I'm not yet happy with the finish, so I've paused to gather my thoughts. As for off center, I'm still stuck at 0.002", which, I think amounts to +/- 0.001 either side, but that might just be optimism. I've got my dial indicator running on the rim of the outer bearing race. The photos show the chucking and the lathe in place in the garage.

Richard L.